What are all the connections at fuel tank

[VFabricius]

Broken plastic fuel line connections at tank

Need some advise - I'm having to replace fuel tank due to tank straps that broke and dragged the tank until road ate thru it. Finally found a used tank but noticed that when the original tank dropped, the plastic fitting on top of fuel tank broke off. That assembly appears to have 3 plastic hose connections:

1) one for fuel supply to engine (broke when tank dropped)

2) one return from engine

3) the other plastic fitting (purpose unknown) is broken also but it's an older break because it was dirty. I don't see a hose to connect to that connection. Anyone know what it's for?



Also, has anyone replaced this plastic fuel fitting supply sub assembly which comes up through the tank assembly that contains the fuel float guage and filter screen and what else? The molded plastic fuel fitting assembly is sealed with a large rubber grommet and it looks impossible to remove that unit from the tank assembly.



Any thoughts? Appreciate any advise.

 

[boatpuller]

Looking in my factory service manual it looks like that assembly unscrews from the top of the tank. That's on a 93 though.



Hope this helps.

Caleb

 

[CDegner]

I had to replace the fuel pump module on my truck just a couple months ago. I know, there is no fuel pump in there but that is what it is called.



You are correct on the first two connections. The third is a "breather" tube. Mine did not have a tube on it and was actually full of road grit. It now has a tube that runs up along side the fuel fill tube (this is how it is supposed to be).



As for getting the assembly out, it is really easy. just unscres the large screw on cap and the whole assembly just lifts out. It does take a little juggling around to get the sending unit out.



All in all, it is not too bad of a job. I dropped my tank, replaced the module and remounted the tank in under 3 hours work.



Some recommend actually raising the bed instead of dropping the tank. Since you are replacing the tank, no reason to raise the bed.



Any other info, just ask!



Carl

 

[VFabricius]

Thanks Carl,

I did unscrew that assembly and take it out of the tank. That assembly has 4 rubber sealed "plugs" in it of which one contains the 3 fuel connections. Great to hear that the fuel connection "plug" can be removed and replaced. Will go down to the dealer tomorrow and order it.



I'm alittle miffed that they would have plastic fuel connectors as they will break off just like mine did. That's Dodge/Chrysler for you - seems like at least the fuel connection sub assembly would be metal tubing. I guess the rest of the contraption I pulled out of the tank was float and fuel screen and fuel pickup tube. It's quite a large assembly compare to my GMC Jimmy tank I just had out replacing the fuel pump.



Thanks for the info - will have to find a manual someday - factory ones are real expensive.

Regards

 

[tugboatphil]

VF,



Keep your eye on Ebay for a manual. I got my Dodge manual from the guy that sold me the truck. But I got the 2 set manual for the wife's Caddy for $20. Read carefully, some of the "manuals" advertised are CDs.



Did you get a new float sending unit? Do you have that part # handy?



Good luck.

 

[MFalkinham]

I had my tank down last month, and was quite unimpressed with the cheap plastic fittings and lines that Dodge uses for connecting to the fuel tank. Fortunately none of mine were broken, but I could see how that could happen very easily.



I had my tank down just to beadblast and repaint the straps to prevent them from ever breaking in the future. While the tank was down, I also cleaned out the inside of the frame rail next to the tank, coated it with rust-reformer, primed and painted it. I've seen several of these trucks getting rust holes in the frame next to the tank due to salt, dirt, and moisture collecting there.



Re-installing the tank is the tough part if you're working alone. Even with most of the fuel out and a rolling floor jack, it took quite a while to get it lined up, the filler tube attached, and the straps reconnected. Get a buddy to help you if possible.



- Mike

 

[VFabricius]

Update: I had to buy a complete fuel pump assembly to drop in the tank although there is no fuel pump in it, it includes the fuel guage float, fuel tube pickup, anti roll over shut off valve, and fuel connections and filter screen - $310 + tax! I also had to buy new straps since the original owner had brazed extentions on the originals to extend them for a 30 gallon tank? which is why it broke. New straps - $126.



Now the fun part putting it back up there while making all the connects. When I did my '91 Jimmy fuel tank it was a religious experience, I'm sure it will be similar with this truck. Thanks for all the advice you can provide.

 

[CDegner]

YIKES!!:--)



I bought my module less than 6 months ago - $254 + tax.



As far as hooking everything up, install the module, hang the tank, then do all the connections once the tank is mounted. Looking in from the side, there is enough room to sit under there and you can see all the connections. Practise hooking everything up so you know how the connections are made and it should be pretty simple.



If you try making the connections while the tank is down, you are likely to end up breaking something again.



Carl

 

[CPG]

That little vent valve that is not connected is also called the "rollover valve". This is supposed to eliminate a fuel spill if turned over. Also it is important to maintain flo of fuel with no vacuum from the tank. I will never forget this as the plastic shipping cap was left on when the truck was built, resulting in two stalls during the last part of the 7 year warranty. Both times this was at high elevations with a full tank of fuel. The first time Dodge changed the lift pump. Not the problem. The second time it was over the 7 year warranty and I got the bill for $189 from another Dodge agency to remove the little plastic cap. I'm sure at this time others had this same problem, but hope that Chrysler did not charge them for their mistake. I was not a "happy camper" to be charged for this.



Chuck Goode

 

[VFabricius]

Carl and Chuck - I appreciate your input very much and just opened the box of the fuel pump assembly after leaving the dealer and the rollover shutoff was not installed in the assembly. When I talked to the parts counter they said it was a separate assembly and the other components (elect. conn. and fuel hose connections) were part of the assembly.



I asked for the whole unit but got everything but the rollover shutoff. I was trying to think of a way just to cap it but now that I know it allows air into the tank I better go back to the parts counter. He told me it was $26 for just the valve.



Those items have a large stiff rubber grommet which seals them in the fuel pump assembly cover and I don't see how the rollover valve can be installed because of the rubber flange or lip on both sides of the grommet making it very difficult if not impossible to install by hand. Maybe I'll have to soap it up or use KY to get it installed. Anyone have any input.



As for the difficulties installing tank - I'm thinking of hooking up the fuel pump assembly to the fuel lines before installing in the tank. Once all connections are cleanly made, then slide tank up into place while fuel pump assem. drops into tank - then screw the ring down and tighten straps up. That would seem easier than holding tank up and trying to attach lines in the narrow space above the tank.

 

[CPG]

Installation of vent valve

Kind of late for answering you on the installation of the vent valve, but Dodge here squirted some silicon spray around the tapered edge of the rubber valve and pushed it in. Yes, it is a hard place to get to.



Chuck.