2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What Are The Best U-joints To Get???

[Big Best]

I need to replace my u-joints on my 2000 Dodge 24-Valve 4X4. I typically tow a bass boat that only weighs about 3500 lbs. My truck only has an old school BD air / fuel box not much more than that. So I would like to get the best UJOINTS money can buy

 

[GHarman]

SPICER, with grease fittings. GregH

 

[Jong]

I second the Spicer joints!

 

[Joe Mc]

Get them at NAPA - Spicers

 

[jkalchik]

'nother vote for Spicers.

 

[SMorneau]

I can't complain about the OEM joints mine have almost 300k on them. Perhaps the single drive shaft configuration of the single cab truck helps them last.

 

[JessePayne]

whats the difference between hot and cold forged spicer ujoints beside the obvious price difference.

 

[nieters]

Spicer Spl55-4x.

 

[BILLVO]

If you are looking for strength do not go with the ones with grease fittings in them. they will break where the grease journal is if you tow anything with the pickup.

 

[WadePatton]

If all you are ever going to tow is the boat, then get the zerked spicers. If you ever want to play with a sled or a stump or a ford or etc. , then get the non-zerked spicers.



And if you used zerked joints, flush the grease that comes in them OUT with fresh grease before you install them. Then they'll take grease and last forever. Otherwise the oem fill can harden up and you won't get all four sides lubed up proper with the ole squirt gun.



I use solids--I'm likely to hook to anything. :-laf

 

[PDM]

The Zerk fitting should be installed in "compression"; ie the drive yoke rotates toward the Zerk fitting . If installed incorrectly, the forces spread the joint like a wishbone.

 

[GAmes]

I replaced my OEMs at about 300k, just for preventative maint, they were not bad yet. Have nearly 200k on the replacements from Blumenthals. No zerk fittings to worry about.

 

[BILLVO]

I should clarify myself I did not mean they would break while towing normal loads. But under odd conditions like a shock load while towing heavy they can let loose. I have broken many over the years in sand and snow during wheel hop under spin out conditions not by hitting a dry spot just the axle wrap caused hopping. The ladder bars have solved this problem. I have never broken a factory zerkless joint. all broken ones have always been zerked.



The thread originator pulls a boat and a lot of spin out then sudden dry spot hits happen on most slippery boat ramps. Granted his boat is not that heavy but anything is possible. just trying to save a future problem for him.

 

[SMorneau]

If you're in an area that salt isn't liberally applied to the highways you can get away with the soild joints, here in the salt world we can't. The salt/calcium mix gets in & locks 'em up almost as quick as you can replace them. The implication that the grease hole makes them weaker is BS If this were true I should've broke the U-Joints in my '94 before the motor mount :{ , I forgot to multiply the load by 3. New tri-axle truck cab & chassis, stacked for transport, blocking a busy 4 lane, (23,695#)(each). :--)

I am pretty sure I live in a salt area... You must live in a salt mine or something

 

[GHarman]

I dont race or pull sleds, but I do climb twisting, winding roads, dirt and paved, some very dusty and rocky trails and break through deep snow. In all my years of 4X4 usage I have never broken a U-joint, including pulling horsetrailers in deep snow with chains on all 4 wheels. (Gilpin county uses Mag Chloride year around, as snow melt and dust control on all weather dirt roads. ) I have had them wear out! Maybe I baby my rigs, but it would seem to me that a quality greaseable U-joint will work for any application that I have encountered. ( extreme applications require extreme equipment) I will also preface this comment by saying that on "OLD Ugly", I have replaced the rear U-joint on the rear driveline once (with Drivetrain Industries/Spicer) and had the front driveline rebuilt twice. The first front driveline rebuild ( Merril Axle ) used cheap u-joints and only lasted 5 years. ( they were worn out, lots of slop ) The latest was done by Drivetrain Industries with Spicer components. My front axle also has greasable U-joints in the knuckles. I personally like to know that I have grease going to each bearing cap and the ability to flush out moisture and crud that may have worked its way past the seal. If I were racing or sled pulling It would not be done with only 155HP and 400FT. Lbs of torque; requireing much different drivetrain components, IMHO. Anyway, Have a Merry Christmas. GregH

 

[JGrover]

I should clarify myself I did not mean they would break while towing normal loads. But under odd conditions like a shock load while towing heavy they can let loose. I have broken many over the years in sand and snow during wheel hop under spin out conditions not by hitting a dry spot just the axle wrap caused hopping. The ladder bars have solved this problem. I have never broken a factory zerkless joint. all broken ones have always been zerked.



The thread originator pulls a boat and a lot of spin out then sudden dry spot hits happen on most slippery boat ramps. Granted his boat is not that heavy but anything is possible. just trying to save a future problem for him.

Nice thing about a 4x4 at the boat ramp with a 9k boat is... .

4 low,No wheel spin,Give no throttle, Ease clutch out, and idle right on up

 

[JGrover]

If you're in an area that salt isn't liberally applied to the highways you can get away with the soild joints, here in the salt world we can't. The salt/calcium mix gets in & locks 'em up almost as quick as you can replace them. The implication that the grease hole makes them weaker is BS If this were true I should've broke the U-Joints in my '94 before the motor mount :{ , I forgot to multiply the load by 3. New tri-axle truck cab & chassis, stacked for transport, blocking a busy 4 lane, (23,695#)(each). :--)

Ouch!... . That was a semi exspensive math error

 

[Scot]

I used to like Spicer until I purchased 2 of them that were machined 0. 010 out of center on 1 axis. I guess I will have to set up a dial indicator every time in the future.



May well have wiped out the tailshaft housing on a Tremec TKO before finding it. :{

 

[cyborg]

Spicer all the way. Zerked.



"Better to be sure they are lubed, than maybe they might be dry"



I have Precision brand in the rear of my jeep, only because spicer wasn't availible. 80k no problems. But maybe that is my low speed clicking, hmmmm.



Honestly, how many properly lubed u-joint have you seen broken at the zerk. If that is your concern get the ones with the zerk in the cap.

All my failures have been in the cap. Either dry or needle bearing failure.



I hate spending the money to have a shop install u-joints, but sometimes it is worth it to have the shaft balanced.



I've been known to pull a heavy load, but I'm not talking about sled pulling or competition.

Competition and sled: pulling broken u-joint and stuff just comes with the territory.



I remember getting a couple JC Whitney u-joints once. They came in plain white boxes, the joints were wrapped in DANA/Spicer paper. They lasted for years in my '69 PowerWagon, zerked, lubed regularly, and off-roaded often. I always figured JCW got them as defects, but maybe it was only the paper that was spicer!!