what are you replacing your U joints with?

[tobaccogrower]

75,000 miles and going to be replacing my U joints for the second time. first time Dodge did it to the tune of $700.00! not going to do that again. Napa quality has gone down hill lately and I'd like a good grease type U joint. these non greaseable ones don't seem to last. the dodge replacements only made it 15K...

so, what are you guys using and where to get them. I don't want to do this again soon!

 

[jclark5810]

Napa has gone to crap, pretty sad really. I buy mine from a heavy truck distributor, they carry timken, spicer, yukon etc. Google and see if there's anyone in your area. It seems these days that the best shops are the ones that don't advertise and don't ask if I want to be a freaking loyalty member or some bs.

 

[Killgore]

Tobaccogrower, two years ago and 35,000 miles I replaced the universals on my 4X2 with Spicer 5-3206X's. They are greaseless, but they are the correct size. No problems. Labor from my shade-tree mechanic was $150.
- Ed

 

[mwilson]

What position??? Front knuckle, front driveshaft or rear driveshaft?? Or all of them?? Is this on your '06??

 

[Killgore]

Mike, I assumed he was having a problem with the '06. Thinking back two years I remember there was some question concerning two different sizes being sold that made installation a booger and predisposed the universal to premature failure if the wrong one was picked.

 

[mwilson]

I know that my rear three were a tight fit, but they are still tight after several years. They are greasable. I can look up the part number when I get home tonight.

 

[Killgore]

Looking back on my old posts I found the following:

"The other day the rolling click in my drive-train forced me to admit that I better get some u-joints on the way. The factory sets are finally playing out at 199,968. As I searched the web, rolled around on the ground under my truck measuring and identifying components, and of course looking at the various posts on TDR, I became aware that our much beloved trucks can have either a Spicer or AAM drive- shaft. The universals are not interchangeable according to several suppliers. Spicer manufactures a Series 1485 (part #5-3206X) that fits the narrower AAM driveshaft yoke. It is only . 010" different in width from the Spicer driveshaft yoke. Is this tight fit enough to cause premature failure? At least two suppliers think so (Denny's Driveshaft and Northern Drivetrain), and evidently Spicer thinks so for them to manufacture this particular universal to fit the AAM driveshaft."

Oh well. His problem may be with the '93?

- Ed

 

[AH64ID]

Talking with several shops the non-greasable are the best option as they have better seals and are stronger.

Which position are you having issues with?

I had over 95K on my rears when I went to a one-piece, the carrier bearing was shot, and they where very tight. My fronts are still installed but I had manual hubs for 20K miles, and the front axle joints where still decent at 85K when the Yukons went in.

Do they salt the roads where you live?

Greasable might be better in salted areas with a LOT of additional greasing to clean the salt out, but irregular greasing will harm them faster as the seals aren't as tight as nongreasable.

My front axle joints are OEM which is an AAM joint.
My front axle is still stock.
My rear axle are sealed Spicer 1550 series but only have 14K miles on them.

 

[tobaccogrower]

these are the front aam axle u joints. binding in corners

 

[mwilson]

In that case go with the Spicers. I just installed a set last weekend and they look to be well made.

 

[AH64ID]

these are the front aam axle u joints. binding in corners

That is the location that the only recommended joint, for me, has been AAM's. The shop I had build my rear shaft had been using spicers but went back to AAM after some fitment and longevity issues.

It has been a couple years so maybe the spicers are better now.