What brand of brake fluid?

[icarus33]

Changing the brake fluid on my vehicles has been on my "TODO" list for some time and with the recent article in the TDR I'm planning it again.

Anyone have any preferences on a brand of brake fluid? I haven't seen anything offered by Amsoil or Redline so what are people using?

icarus

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'98. 5, 2500, 4x4, LB, QC, AUTO, 3. 54 rear, Snugtop, Rhinoliner, ISB, non Cummins enhanced ECM, DDIIIa injectors, Transgo Diesel shift kit, KJones TC, Rancho 9000's, Autometer boost, transmission temp, digital pyro, Mag-Hytec diff/transmission cvrs. , Redline lubed.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I just changed mine a day or so ago - used some Castrol GT/LMA stuff supposedly exceeding dot 3 OR 4... The "LMA" spec relates to Low Moisture Attraction" or something similar - and I used about a quart and a half in the change...

It was the FIRST time the fluid had EVER been changed, and I was happily surprised at how clean the old fluid and brake systems appeared to be!

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... Tweaked pump, upgraded radiator... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

"Dura" WHAT? NOW I know where all those recycled beer cans go...

 

[TomGolden]

This thread got my curiosity. How does one go about doing this? Just open one of the brake lines and pump the pedal until the lines are empty then fill up the resevoir and bleed them as usual?

Is this something that should be done ocassionally?

How about the clutch fluid?

Thanks,
Tom


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-- email address removed --
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, DD Stage 3 afterburners, boost module, 4" Jardine exhaust, Amsoil, Psychotty air, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, no silencer ring, Armacoating bed liner, TDR decal, Jack holiday antenna ball

NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California

 

[JoelPry]

Hello all, I also have a Mustang that I road race occasionally. I have a race brake system on it, the consensus from the manufacturer and about everyone I talk to who races says that Ford performance brake fluid is the way to go. There is a another brand I cant remember off hand that some full-bore racers use. You can get it from any ford dealer, I believe it comes in a metal quart bottle for about $8, thats what I will use when it comes time to flush mine.

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2001. 5 2500QC, sport, auto, everything but leather and camper package
Intense Blue

 

[WOT]

I've read several article on the benifits of using Silicone brake fluid (higher boil point, doesn't attract moisture). Anyone used in as a replacement?

Bob

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2000 QuadCab, 4x4, 2500, 6spd, Intense Blue Pearl, No mods as of yet!

 

[TomB]

DO NOT use silicone or DOT 5 fluid unless you are intent on destroying all of the seals. I race a Dodge Viper GTS and almost everyone in the Viper family uses Motul 600 ($9. 95/500 Ml. ) Dry boiling point 585*-- Wet B. P 421*. This may be a performance overkill for our trucks, but I use it in my Cummins too since I tow 13K. The last thing I want is my fluid boiling. Even with the Motul, I change my fluid religiously every year as all mineral based fluids are hygroscopic and without replacement will form rust or pitting in the master cylinder necessitating expensive replacement. Castrol GT/LMA is a good compromise especially if you don't plan on yearly changes. Just my experience and opinion!

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2000 Qc LWB ETC 6Sp 3:54 LSD, + all the options except leather, BD Stage ll Injectors,Edge EZ, Psychotty& K&N,
BD E-Brake with Shifter Control, ISSPRO EGT and Boost Gauges, Transfer Flow 50 Gal. Alum. Fuel Tank, Line X
16K Hijacker Double Rocker, Pulling a 35Ft. triple slide Spinnaker 5vr.
1996 Viper GTS
Suzuki DRZ400
1100 Yamaha Cruiser

 

[Randy J]

I bought Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3/4 brake fluid when I did mine. Used to be able to buy it at Wal-Mart, but not anymore. Last time I found it at Auto Zone. As for the replacement procedure; I used a turkey baster to suck it out of the master cylinder (shooting some back in to stir it up a little, just to make sure any debris was floating), refilled with the new stuff, then bled all brake lines until the new stuff started coming out. Be careful to keep refilling the master cylinder.


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Randy Jones, San Antonio, TX, rdj@gvtc.com, 98 1/2 QC, 4X4, American Racing BAJA's, 285/75/16, Amsoil throughout, Superstar 3000 export radio, Firestik antenna with fender mount, Fire-ring cable, Mag-Hytec Deep transmission pan

2000 VW Jetta TDI, auto, 45 mpg average

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - what Randy sez...

Recommended procedure is to start at the wheel greatest distance away from the master cylinder and then second greatest, etc. , etc. Of course, with dual reservoir master cylinders, that only applies to 2 wheels at a time... And be SURE to NOT allow master cylinder to run dry as you flush, or it will take longer to then flush the air out.

The trick is to have help, the person inside the truck will push slowly, steadily down on the brake pedal as YOU crack open the bleed screw at the wheel (I use a hose slipped over the nipple of the bleed fitting, then leading into a drain container - a plastic pop bottle is ideal, since you can see the fluid change color when the new stuff reaches the wheel cylinder) AS the brake pedal is bottomed out, the person inside the truck holds it down as YOU close off the bleed screw at the wheel. When you have it closed, you let the other guy slowly release the brake pedal to allow the master cylinder to suck in the next shot of fluid (you close OFF the bleed screw to prevent air from being sucked BACK into the system when the brake pedal is released!) - then you repeat the procedure until you see fresh fluid appear at the wheel you are working on. DON'T allow the person at the pedal to make rapid pushing or release of the brake pedal, or you might squirt brake fluid all over your engine bay! I prefer to actually place the master cylinder cover loosely back on top of the master cylinder in between refilling as the procedure progresses - just in case... #ad


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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... Tweaked pump, upgraded radiator... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

"Dura" WHAT? NOW I know where all those recycled beer cans go...

 

[JohnE]

Haven't done any brake work on the Ram yet. All other brake jobs have been done to my anal standards. <ul>
[*]Rebuild calipers and/or cylinders.
[*]Deglaze rotors or drums unless turning is required due to stupid (me) letting the friction material go thin.
[*]Drain master and refill with fresh fluid. Purge lines while calipers/cylinders are removed for rebuild.
[*]Bleed the system.

Here's something to ponder. Non-organic friction material operates in the 6-700&deg;F range. How will fluid with a lower ioling point will survive?

Got any comments to add Sam?

Cheers;
JE

 

[illflem]

A little extra to Gary's excellent advice;
One problem that can occur especially if the brake fluid hasn't been flushed for a long time is the part of the master cylinder stoke that is never reached when the brakes are working normally becomes rusted. When you go to bleed the brakes and push the pedal to the floor the rusted part of the cylinder can tear up the seals. It's best to bleed the brakes with either a pressure bleeder or to take care that the person operating the pedal only pushes the pedal down as far as it goes in normal operation, not all the way to the floor.

 

[sam peterson]

JE---How did you know I was watching this post? Sounds to me like all you guys have a pretty good handle on how to flush fluid & witch ones to use. I personally don't recommend Silicone. The falacy is that it does't attract moisture but it does--it just doesn't mix with the fluid,it just lays in the bottom of the bores in droplets. About the only good point it has is that it doesn't eat paint like reg fluid. Where were all you guys several years ago when I was looking for some employees with a little brake knowledge? Now I would like to retire and don't need any. Brake temps can reach those high numbers as you say but hopefully rotor mass & pad material will dissipate the heat down to an acceptable level before it reaches the fluid. Thats why clean fluid with high boiling point is important. I can vouch for the fact that when the fluid boils and you lose the pedal you will need to change your shorts. -----Sam

[This message has been edited by sam peterson (edited 04-23-2001). ]

 

[icarus33]

I know that feeling in the shorts. I have a '78 Toyota Landcruiser that will make you pucker when I have a small utility trailer in tow.

So looks like the Castrol and the Valvoline would be readily available. The Ford fluid I would assume is still a DOT 3 fluid available at a dealer? I wouldn't know about where the Motul 600 could be purchased. Summit maybe?

Thanks for the all the info gang.

icarus



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'98. 5, 2500, 4x4, LB, QC, AUTO, 3. 54 rear, Snugtop, Rhinoliner, ISB, non Cummins enhanced ECM, DDIIIa injectors, Transgo Diesel shift kit, KJones TC, Rancho 9000's, Autometer boost, transmission temp, digital pyro, Mag-Hytec diff/transmission cvrs. , Redline lubed.

 

[C Schomer]

I vacuum bleed mine yearly and sponge out the clutch reservoir and refill it. I don't use my brakes much, so I settle for DOT3. Craig