Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
A lot depends on the usage, how much you want to spend, etc. Also, if you have a loacal builder or want to but a complete transmission. A local builder is a lot easier to get help from if something goes wrong, and, all the parts can usually be sourced from one supplier.
TC - spend as much as you can afford on as good a TC as possible. This one piece will have the largest impact on trans performance. Billet cover, updated sprag, updated stator, better apply piston, brazed turbine fins, etc. There are quite a few things to do internally to make them stornger and better. If you are going with a triple disk keep in mind the VB pressures and setup are critical or it be a HARD lockup situation and totally turn you off for daily use. A single can be the same way so whomever sets up the VB needs to understand thouroughly how the VB effects that lockup. My choice would be a Goerends single disk with a 15 blade left cut stator, all his updates and patented pieces for the apply piston. With the Smarty Jr for extra power an Tq management reduction you should be able to spin the engine up againsty a tight TC most of the time. If your typical tow weight is up around 15k then you might have some issues in certain conditions and may want a looser triple disk to get rolling.
Flex plate - Your choice on a stock, a better thna stock, or an SFI rated one. It really is about $$ and how you want to use the truck. I am still running a stock flex plate with over 100k at 400+ HP, towing, playing, etc. Once you put a billet TC in the stocker is pretty good until you just overpower it. That usually takes boosted launches and full power locked-to-locked shifting. PATC has\had a nice priced 4 mil plate that was 1/2 of the fancy ones. Have used it several times when a super duty one was not warranted.
Billet input - If you do a triple a billet input is a must. With a single not so much if you are not going to play, run a lockup switch, or go over about 50 HP additional power. The stock 48RE shaft is pretty beefy, however, yours now has 180k on it so metal fatigue could be an issue. Just something to consider when you start putting more power thru the trans. There are quite a few billet outpu shafts in different configurations. Make SURE you get one that has the billet hub also and preferably 1 piece. Stock has the shift splined into the hub and that is where a lot of failures happen. The 1 piece shafts take care of that issue.
VB - If your local builder feels good about a shift kit and setup then the parts are not that expensive. Otherwise, Goerend has a few choices for VB's, does great work, and will stand behind it.
Clutches - I would use the Raybestos HE series and just leave the stock counts in it. They are adequate unless you want to race and really thrash the truck.
Seals, bushings, washers - Get an updated kit from Goerends.
Other parts - billet band strut and anchor, billet accumulator, either a billet cover for the stock fornt servo or a new billet servo and a new apply lever (the stock lever does not work well with the super servo and raise pressures), billet rear servo.
Aout the only other thing that needs done, there are more than can be done, is have the input hub drilled for extra cooling in the direct clutch pack. Goerend will do this on their billet input setups if you ask. The direct clutch pack takes a huge beating from the TQ on these engines, anything you can do ther eto help is a bonus.
TC - spend as much as you can afford on as good a TC as possible. This one piece will have the largest impact on trans performance. Billet cover, updated sprag, updated stator, better apply piston, brazed turbine fins, etc. There are quite a few things to do internally to make them stornger and better. If you are going with a triple disk keep in mind the VB pressures and setup are critical or it be a HARD lockup situation and totally turn you off for daily use. A single can be the same way so whomever sets up the VB needs to understand thouroughly how the VB effects that lockup. My choice would be a Goerends single disk with a 15 blade left cut stator, all his updates and patented pieces for the apply piston. With the Smarty Jr for extra power an Tq management reduction you should be able to spin the engine up againsty a tight TC most of the time. If your typical tow weight is up around 15k then you might have some issues in certain conditions and may want a looser triple disk to get rolling.
Flex plate - Your choice on a stock, a better thna stock, or an SFI rated one. It really is about $$ and how you want to use the truck. I am still running a stock flex plate with over 100k at 400+ HP, towing, playing, etc. Once you put a billet TC in the stocker is pretty good until you just overpower it. That usually takes boosted launches and full power locked-to-locked shifting. PATC has\had a nice priced 4 mil plate that was 1/2 of the fancy ones. Have used it several times when a super duty one was not warranted.
Billet input - If you do a triple a billet input is a must. With a single not so much if you are not going to play, run a lockup switch, or go over about 50 HP additional power. The stock 48RE shaft is pretty beefy, however, yours now has 180k on it so metal fatigue could be an issue. Just something to consider when you start putting more power thru the trans. There are quite a few billet outpu shafts in different configurations. Make SURE you get one that has the billet hub also and preferably 1 piece. Stock has the shift splined into the hub and that is where a lot of failures happen. The 1 piece shafts take care of that issue.
VB - If your local builder feels good about a shift kit and setup then the parts are not that expensive. Otherwise, Goerend has a few choices for VB's, does great work, and will stand behind it.
Clutches - I would use the Raybestos HE series and just leave the stock counts in it. They are adequate unless you want to race and really thrash the truck.
Seals, bushings, washers - Get an updated kit from Goerends.
Other parts - billet band strut and anchor, billet accumulator, either a billet cover for the stock fornt servo or a new billet servo and a new apply lever (the stock lever does not work well with the super servo and raise pressures), billet rear servo.
Aout the only other thing that needs done, there are more than can be done, is have the input hub drilled for extra cooling in the direct clutch pack. Goerend will do this on their billet input setups if you ask. The direct clutch pack takes a huge beating from the TQ on these engines, anything you can do ther eto help is a bonus.
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