2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What has changed?

[Deezal Man]

What has changed in my front end?

This might come across as a vague question. . but my 98. 5 just doesn't ride and handle like it used too. . Or at least what I remember. .



Maybe its me, but I could have sworn the truck rode like a car when new. . and handling was relatively tight for a 4x4 truck on bigger than car size rubber. Like many of you. . time and miles have pushed me to replace the shocks (RS9000's @36K) and loose steering initiated a Luke's link upgrade (50K). Problem is, it just doesn't seem to give back the feeling it once had. In fact, it seems to be getting worse. . as if the front end is just wearing out somehow. (@85K)



Adding fuel to the fire, a side view quickly reveils "tired, sagging" front springs. I'm told my truck probably has the 39 on passenger and 42 on Driver side. . So its no surprise that I'm due for a new set.



Hence my plan:

1. New set of Mopar 47/48 springs to raise the front to match the rear. I've considered the +2" springs but have heard the front will be slightly higher than the rear. . THAT I DON'T WANT



2. Luke's link is rubbing on the diff to the point I will soon have to replace the cover. Should I consider the DT Track bar system? What advantages might I see? Anyone else upgrade from Luke's??



3. While I'm at it, the RS9000 have ~50K of wear. . So I'm thinking of replacing them with Bilsteins. Comments?? How long should a set of shocks last on a street driven 4x4? (approximately) Keep in mind I live in PA, which means our roads are not exactly suspension friendly. . Oo.



Last but not least. Is the primary culprit for this sloppy feeling due to the rubber bushings in the suspension?? If so, what are my alternatives?



What about ball joints?? How would I know if they are bad?? Or do I assume they are shot at 85K??



Thanks in advance for your time.

 

[Hohn]

Hi there, DM.


1) My truck also came with the 39/42 spring set. I replaced with D25s, which are very cheap and lift the front about 2 inches.
If you go with the Sjyjacker springs, don't worry about the front sitting too high, because they are so cheap that they will sag soon enough if you give the truck a workout even just once in a while.

The 48/47 spring set is probably WAY too stiff for what you want. They will also sag later on, but give you worse ride quality the whole time. I wouldn't consider them a good option unless you have a huge moosekiller bumper and need a stiffer spring.
2) I have the DT ProFab track bar and it works incredibly well. It's VERY strong both in design and construction. The Heim Joint design is superior, imho, as it removes all the unnecessary play in the Track bar. This stability is crucial to havig a truck that won't wander. I replaced my OEM bar with the DT unit at less than 30K miles, and the improvement in handling and stability was immediately noticeable. I don't have the Luke's link, so I can't comment on it much. I'll I can say is that the DT bar fixes what it wrong with the OEM bar to begin with- the POOR DESIGN! IMHO, the ball-joint loaded in a bending moment is a serious design flaw. The DT bar changes this to a Heim joint, and this is MUCH more appropriate. I can't recommend the DT bar enough. It's expensive, but fixes the ROOT of the problem, and the problem STAYS fixed.

3) Your Ranchos are probably shot at 50K. Almost ALL mass-market shocks are made by Gabriel. They all cost about $5 to make. They are cheap and NOT designed for durability.

The Bilstein 5100s are far superior to any other off-the-shelf shock that's stocked at most places. The digressive valving is unique to Bilstein and allows BOTH a decent ride while still maintaining some stability.

You sound to me like a perfect candidate for the KORE "pace" system or just their levelling kit. It includes the BEST coils money can buy (never will sag) and custom tuned bilstein 5100s. It's also very reasonably priced at around $300. www.koreperformance.com

Kent knows a little about Dodge suspension as that's ALL his company does. That, and race a mostly stock CTD in the Baja 1000!


Justin

 

[Hohn]

Also, don't worry about the rubber bushings. If they are dried out or shot, they could play a role, but keep the rubber parts in key places (like the control arm bushings) as they protect parts from impact.

My ball joints are bad, but the truck still rides and handles just fine.

Justin

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

3. While I'm at it, the RS9000 have ~50K of wear. . So I'm thinking of replacing them with Bilsteins. Comments?? How long should a set of shocks last on a street driven 4x4? (approximately) Keep in mind I live in PA, which means our roads are not exactly suspension friendly. . Oo. .

Heh. . . one trip across the US and through the Northeast and back pretty well did in the new Bilstein OE series I installed just before setting out on my journey. But it was a pothole outside Atlanta that killed the one on the driver's side, so I blame that one on Georgia highways :-laf



Next idea is dual shock setup in the front.



Vaughn