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98 12v into a 1st gen

Exhaust stack

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Today I was working on installing a boost gauge & pyrometer (won't be flying blind too much longer:D ) on my '93 D350. I pulled off the glove box door to see if there was an easy place to pass the wires/hose through the firewall. Once the door was removed I noticed a black box mounted on the firewall behind (actually forward) of the glove box on the upper right hand side. Its about 3" by 5 " and it has a plug with about 9 conductors in it. The harness was disconnected from the box, perhaps by accident or perhaps on purpose. I didn't plug it in. Does anyone know what this black box is for and/or have any idea why someone would unplug it?



On another note, I picked up a new battery today from NAPA. It is a Napa brand (made by Excide) group 31, 1120CCA, commercial/bus battery. It has a free 18 month replacement, 75 month guarentee, and betst of all, it was on sale for $69. 00. Glad to get the trolling motor battery outathere!



Appreciate any insite into the black box mystery-thanks for your time!



Joe Jump

St Louis
 
J, plug it in and your ANTI-LOCK and BRAKE lights will probly illuminate and stay on in your message center lights. High dollar fix would include replacing rear speed sensor $71+-, rear speed sensor harness $71+-, Rear brake proportioning valve $$$$$. I had dealer replace the first two parts, to no avail, was told I would have to replace the proportioning valve near $350. You can try removing the speed sensor from top of rear diff and cleaning with brake cleaner or contact cleaner, drying and see if that helps. Or the cheap fix, unplug the plug behind the glovebox at the anti-lock control module. Did this to both of my CTD's. Bill
 
Or if you're happy with it, just leave it as is. I'm not the world's biggest fan of ABS, and unhook it anyway. I like my brakes to work when I apply the pedal, not have ome computer telling me I might skid. The only time you wont skid is on dry pavement. Rain, snow, ice, etc, and you willl lock them up anyway. And your front brakes lock up, making steering impossible. Thank you federal govt for making my life more hazardous than it already is.



Daniel
 
One of the best places to route you boost tube and wiring is thru the big rubber plug in the firewall, just below the brake booster.

Make a cut in the rubber boot and us that. It comes out just above were the emerg. brake cable is inside.

I got a piece of that grey plastic pipe for house plumbing, cut a length about 4" long, then slit it the full length. I then slid my boost tubing and wiring into the tubing, taped up one end nice and snug so it had a bit of taper then shoved it thru the boot.

Undo the tape and continue routing from there.

The up side to this method is it protects anything inside it from chaffing and you can always use that bit of tubing to feed more stuff in if needed.

I got a can of spray leak sealer, then sprayed the tubing end on the engine compartment side so it was fairl well sealed from water intrusion.



Bob.
 
If you plug it in and it does light up your ABS and Brake Fault lights you can check the fault codes(number of flashes at ABS light) by grounding the single black(not positive on color)that hangs down from the connector going to the control module, after grounding that wire, there is a connector on the end of it, you count the number of pulses and that will tell you what it thinks the problem is, nine pulses would indicate the speed sensor in the rear end, which is a common failure, if that pull the connector and clean it, reassemble using dielectric grease and recheck. You clear fault codes by unplugging the controller and waiting thirty 30 before plugging back in. If you have a manual look to section 5 pg 59. if not and you do the above post number of flashes and we can tell you what the code is.....
 
If the fault code is the sensor try www.rockauto.com. I got the correct sensor there for less than $30, after the Dodge dealer told me $75. My cable connector was broke so I had to spend the $75 to Dodge.



Mark
 
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