Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What is normal AFC behavior?

[Johnstra]

I'm not getting the smoke I expect with my AFC spring kit. I have the stiffer of the 2 springs in the kit installed and the star wheel is all the way toward the engine. I pulled the AFC off and tested it using regulated air. It takes over 10 psi to get my AFC to move much at all. It's not leaking anywhere I can detect. I'm assuming (I know what happens when I do that) that it should take much less pressure than that to move the AFC. Right?



Anyone have some theories why it's not working right? I can always install the lighter spring, but I'd like to actually know what it's not working right.



Any help greatly appreciated.



-john

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I just did another truck this weekend(98' auto... 180 pump) and set it up for 20psi for max fueling, he already had a #10(boost elbow) and 3K's so I did timing and set the AFC up as about and it smokes very little to none at WOT and just a puff when you hammer it but it spools instantly and runs well, 10 psi to me is too light of a spring but to each his own. Did you put the AFC back together the same way it came apart or did you make changes to it? If you back the star wheel off allot it won't even load the spring for tension, if it's too tight it won't allow full AFC arm travel at boost(or shop air) the shop air method is the best for learning and setting one up.



Jim

 

[Johnstra]

How much does the AFC arm have to travel to allow fueling? Right now, my wastegate is blocked off. I'm just trying to get a feel for how different AFC setups affect fueling before boost builds. Everything I've read says if the star wheel is fully backed off and the AFC housing us fully forward it should smoke like crazy off the line. Mine doesn't do that and I'm trying to figure out why. Once I'm convinced everything's working right I'll set it up just the way I want it.



I put it back together just like it was before.



What else do you adjust when you're setting one up for somebody?



-john