I have a 383 stroker that I put together in high school. The kid that has had it for the last 6 years sold it back to me. It has a broken crank, but every thing else is in great shape(the snout broke off). All the cranks I can find are for either 6 or 5. 7 inch rods. What does the crank care what rod is bolted to it? Balancing? If so, should I care (because I am going to have everything rebalanced anyways). It has the 5. 565 inch 400 rods.
Easy answer... any 3. 75" stroke 400 crank will work just dandy.
"old school" 383 stroker:
... I'm guessing this is what you have.
350 block, relieved at bottom of block for crank clearance.
350 pistons with relieved skirts
400 crank, flywheel/flexplate/balancer, main journals turned down from 2. 65 to 2. 45.
400 rods 5. 56"
"new school" 383 stroker:
350 block, relieved as above.
custom pistons with higher pin heights
400 crank, flywheel/flexplate/balancer, main journals turned down from 2. 65 to 2. 45
standard every-sb chevy-'cept-for-the-400 5. 7" rods.
"new school v2. 0" 383 stroker:
same as above but with:
super long 6. 0" or longer rods
custom pistons with super high pin heights and rings high up on the piston. sometimes the pins are so high, they intersect with the oil ring and require ring support rails.
Also, the long rods sometimes have clearance issues with the cams, so the rods have to be clearanced on the bolt shoulders and/or reduced base circle (smaller diameter) cams need to be ran.
Ideally, the longer the rod the better. Your old school short rod 383 has a max rpm of around 5500... . the 5. 7 rod 400 can go about 6500, the 6. 0 rod 400 can eclipse 7000 all day long... .
SO..... tear it down and build a long rod engine. :-laf