2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What kind of hitch?

[EKoster]

I recently bought an '02 CTD long bed. for some reason, it doesn't have a tow hitch on it. trying to get opinions from everyone on here as to what hitch to get. Thanks



Eric

 

[RustyJC]

If you don't have a receiver, your truck didn't have the towing package. Just a heads up - that means you don't have the wiring harness for trailer lights and brakes, either.



Insofar as a receiver, get a Class V Reese Titan and be done with it.



Rusty

 

[EKoster]

I noticed a bundle of wires just cut the same length, looks like the wiring for the receiver. I have a feeling that the person who traded it in might have removed the whole thing.

 

[Bart]

If you plan on using a cab over camper that also sticks out the rear of the truck, i. e. 10 or 11 footer, then I'd suggest that you go with a class V hitch if you tow anything that has serious weight. I have 10. 5' cab over and pull and car trailer. I changed my class IV out for a class V. The difference is 2" vs 2 1/2" square tube stock. There's also the question of the extension you'll need if this is your idea of towing. With the extension and hitch removed anywhere from 24 inches to 48 inches there is a derating factor. My 14K hitch is pulling about 5-6 K with a 48 inch extension. I figure half of it is safe.

By the way if you want my class IV hitch we can talk.

 

[MKoth]

I have a DMI cushion 2" reciever. Since the truck pulls wagons and fletbeds every spring and fall, it sure helps take a little of the shock out of the stopping and going.

 

[msperos]

Go with a class 5 hitch, I've got one for sale only on my truck 30 days before I traded it in pm me for details.

 

[CNeubauer]

I've got a DMI on mine too. They are a little pricey but they are built as tough as anything on the market which is why you see them on a majority of farm trucks.

 

[CumminsPower98]

I got a class V Putnam not long ago since my stock hitch started cracking on both sides in the 90º bends at the frame. I like the Putnam a lot because the main cross piece is hidden behind the bumper and doesn't hang way down like the stock one and also the Reese Titan. I didn't like the Titan because it cost a lot more, hung down and there is no point in going 2. 5" when most stuff is 2" anyway and would require an adapter. The Putnam has a 15k rating without bars and 16k with so it's a very strong hitch! Here you can see an example of one.

 

[duunoit]

I second the Putnam. I think that it's a heck of a bargain. I want to say that I paid about $170 shipped.

 

[EKoster]

ok, so I got the putnam class V, but my 2" receiver tongue seems a little sloppy in the receiver body. I measured the putnam and the mouth is actually closer to 2 1/8" square. Any thoughts on that? Is it supposed to have play? I sure didn't think so...

 

[Thomas]

Without a bit of clearance you would be an unhappy camper. You need the space to make hand-insertion of the drawbar possible.



My Putnam XDR class 5 receiver has similar clearance. No problem.



The class 5 Titan needs clearance in the receiver and clearance in the sleeve if used with a two inch drawbar.

 

[EKoster]

what if I'm not using a drawbar?

 

[Thomas]

Ballmount, insert, drawbar, hitch bar. Lots of names for the same thing.



Whether I'm using the ball, the pintle, or the clevis, the word drawbar seems to work for all three.

 

[Rman]

I suggest the superhitch from www.torklift.com



I have the reese class V and wish I would have bought this. The reese is ok, but the added options the superhitch has sure are nice.