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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What Mod Next?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Auto, first gear

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I have a 96 Dodge Cummins 2500 Reg Cab longbox 4x4 Automatic with 148,000 miles. At 110,000 I took it to our local Cummins guru at the cummins dealer. At that time he ran the rack, fiddled with the pump and springs, set the waste gate. Reset the timming and all the other little things.

Mods so far are K+N air filter

full 4" stainless 316L exhaust with a borla XR-1 stainless muffler all built by myself using mandrels, tig welded.

At 138,000 miles I put in a complete ATS trans with tripple-loc convertor. BIG DIFFERENCE!



Now I am looking at stepping it up. 375hp marine injectors?

#5 Plate?

Gov. springs? if so which ones? how much?

Let me know what you guys think.

Ran it at the track one went a 17:40@ 78mph at 6500lbs which calculates to 243hp.

Thanks Cal
 
Guages are a must especially with the mods you listed. I absouletly wouldnt install them with out a FULL set of guages in the truck. Boost, Trans Temp, Pyro, and Fuel Pressure.



Russell
 
Gauges

Yes, I will get some gauges soon... probably just a pyro and boost gauge, but so far I have not done anything that would raise the EGTS just lower them. We checked it at the cummins dealer though. . and he said everything was safe.
 
Re: Gauges

Originally posted by Chayward

... but so far I have not done anything that would raise the EGTS just lower them. We checked it at the cummins dealer though. . and he said everything was safe.



BZZZZT. . WRONG ANSWER!



ANY modification to add more fuel will increase the EGT's. More air and less fuel will get you LESS POWER. GUAGES ARE A MODIFICATION REQUIREMENT!!!



Sorry for the yelling and all but that guy either didn't do anything of note to affect the performance or has too much faith in his ability to read EGT's through an exhaust manifold casting.



To answer your question, a plate kit (or put the pump on a stand and have one of the vendors here readjust it), 370's, a 14cm turbo housing (or other turbo), a high flow air filter and maybe the 191 delivery valves (you might need them but then again you might not). What hp(or ET) and $$ would you like to end up at?



Also, you need to start thinking about cool downs when you mod too. I've had real good luck (and a major eye opening) with an Isspro Turbo Temp Monitor. It monitors an EGT probe downstream from the turbo (read a probe in the manifold for the guage) and shuts the motor down at 300 degrees.
 
I would say, if you want free/cheap stuff, slide the plate and save the WASTE of $200+ on some TST plate. Take your plate out, take a grinding wheel to it, and TADAA... . new plate. Or just slide/remove it.



Then put that $200+ dollars towards something useful, like some Marine 370's, or you can go the cautious route and get the gauges before grinding/removing plate, whichever you prefer.



I would avoid bigger housings on the HX-35. The temp savings simply aren't worth the money AND lag with NO gain in top end. I ran mine well into the 300HP range and know of several who have them in the 400 range. Just wait until you have the fuel/need for an HX-40.



So in summary... I would say...

1. Do the guages. They are good to do while you have the money.

2. You can grind/remove your plate and get your timing set to around 19-20* all for less than $50. Nice to have free mods, eh?:cool:

3. 370's. Check Rod at Wilcatdiesel.com. He has some of the best prices.

4. Do delivery valves (191's are awesome)

5. Turbo. You can get the bolt on HX-40 with either 16 or 18 housing for around $500 or less if you look around.



All that will put you right at 400HP. Steps 1-3 will put you at 350hp or so. not bad for about 400 bucks, right?Oo.
 
2. You can grind/remove your plate and get your timing set to around 19-20* all for less than $50. Nice to have free mods, eh?



Where can I get timing done for under $50? It cost me much more than that.



Also, be weary about buying just any (stock) HX40 and winding it up. From what I've learned here a stock 40 is not balanced/built well enough to handle the higher PSI turbine and RPMs. Best to find one that's been worked over and balanced by a reputable shop. Hate to see anyone grenade their turbo and waste some $$$.



Mike
 
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