What next to tighten the steering?

[JBlakeman]

All,

Labor Day weekend a buddy and I completely rebuilt my front end.
Replaced:

1. Bilstein Shocks
2. Skyjacker Leveling Springs
3. Bilstein Stablizer Shock
4. BD Steering Support Shaft
5. Maxx Sway Bar Links (3" Lift)
6. Precision Greasable Wheel Joints
7. World Bearing Wheel Bearings (These were not fun to remove, had to beat the **** out of them to remove from the steering knucle... )
8. Dynatrac Ball Joints

The truck has 146k on it with my second set of Michelins (85k on them) on original wheels. I had one inner tie rod replaced last year from the dealer. Otherwise we looked at my steering rack and didn't see much problem. I have felt that the "return to center" and bouncing of the wheel is officially gone with the new components however I still have to correct the steering constantly when driving straight. I'm ready to upgrade to new BFG AT's (LT295-LT305 on stock wheels) which then will get an alignment from the shop at the same time.

However I would like to get some feedback on what else I should look at in the steering before making the $1500 investment.

I've heard some going with MOOG steering components, the 2008-up steering rack, etc. Just don't know with my particular setup what to look for next. The steering box seems to be in good shape (no leaks) and the rod ends are still pretty tight in the steering knuckles. I've heard there is an adjustment on the box however we didn't touch it for fear this might overshadow a problem that lies elsewhere... .

Advice Please... .

Jon

 

[SierraRam]

I would make sure your caster is set correctly. If your caster is off the truck will feel very skitish on the road. Also if you had worn components your tires can be worn and also cause some of the wandering problems.

 

[JBlakeman]

Both lower ball joints were shot (especially the passenger side) as they were original. The driver side wheel joint and bearing were dry (seized).



How do you adjust the caster? Or is this something done when the alignment takes place at a tire shop?

 

[DogramTD]

Caster significantly influences wander and pull, especially if you just put leveling springs on your truck; it will increase your negative caster. This is the reason when people put huge lifts on, they have to cut the ends of the axle housings and rotate them because trying to put the caster back in through control arm adjustment creates too steep of a pinion angle.



You are good with a 2 in leveling kit, just take it down to a reputable alignment shop and get an alignment done; its a good idea anyway since you replaced most all of your steering components. Your caster angle should be about 4. 5 degrees

 

[JBlakeman]

Any reason I should look at tie rods too or should the alignment take care of the issues at this point? Other than the one inner tie rod replaced last year, everything else is original.

 

[DogramTD]

For some reason I thought I read you replaced your linkage. It wouldve been a good time to check your Tie rod ends while you were under there after 146k, they may be getting loose. Also, there was a recall on the steering linkage, not sure if it affected your MY or not, but it was to upgrade the 3/4 ton steering linkage to the 1 ton steering linkage due to problems w/ bending/flex of the drag link.



Check the ends for wear and hopefully the alignment will clean the rest up.

 

[JZellers]

I had two tie rod ends that were bad when I changed my ball joints too. I only have 45K miles on mine. After changing everything, the wander started. If your steering box has excessive play, that could be a major contributor to your problems. Mine was very loose but was not noticeable until I started changing the other worn parts. I put the BD steering brace on mine and while it made a big difference in the steering, it didn't do much to stop the wandering. I adjusted the play out of it and it's pretty much how it should be now. You should also check your track bar bushings.



Unfortunately, as you already found out, once you start changing parts everything else that is worn out is going to show itself

 

[JCockerill]

at least you got more mileage out of it. my 06 has 52K miles and allmost every part in the front end is shot! the front ends of these trucks are a JOKE. have someone work the steering back and forth with engine running while you look at all of the sterring components with wheels on the ground under load. you will be amazed at what you see! how do you like the dynatrack ball joints? are both uppers and lowers greaseable? i'm changing mine soon.

 

[MA2LA]

the box may be bad, I'm getting ready to replace mine... . also the steering shaft is crap from the factory. And as mentioned above track bar . I replaced the bushings in mine with ones from geno's but they didn't hold up well after the winter we had.

 

[JBlakeman]

The Dynatrac joints were much cheaper than the Carli's and seem to look beefier than the Moog's and definetly light years stronger than stock. They have all metal construction and at least weighed twice as much thant the comparable stock joints. The top joints have a large zerk fitting on the top for greasing (had to be removed for the install... ) and is twice the size than the lowers. I think the lowers can be greased if you remove the nut on the top of the joint or it uses a needle fitting (not sure and didn't bother since they were packed with grease from the factory... ).



Ordering from Dynatrac was a simple process, very friendly, offerred a discount since they weren't in stock (waited two weeks for them... apparently their making them just as fast as selling them) and had free shipping... .



I'll check the steering slack with a buddy this week... . anything I should look for to determine whether its the rod ends plus box or steering box too?!?



I changed the sway bar links with Maxx Links, where is the track bar? Not sure where to look other than somewhere on the steerinig shaft... .



What steering manufacturer should I be looking at to replace and what should I buy (Dodge factory tie rods, 2008 + rods, Moogs, etc. )... .



Can the steering box just go bad or can it still be adjusted after the new parts are in place on the linkage..... I'm hoping I can get buy without spending the additional money... .

 

[JZellers]

Just look closely at each tie rod end, the steering shaft, and also the trackbar bushings. If they're worn you'll see the slop. The track bar goes between the frame and axle to keep the axle centered. I'd be really surprised if your bushings were still good. They are fairly easy to replace. Mine were worn to the point that I was able to drive the rubber out with a pipe and hammer, then drove out the steel sleeve with an air chisel. The new bushings pushed in pretty much by hand.



I used Moog parts to replace the worn tie rod ends because they were in stock locally but found that they didn't have grease fittings just like the factory parts - disappointing. I don't know how they'll last, but the factory parts didn't go far on mine either.



As far as your steering box is concerned, it can go either way - they can go bad. If the box is worn, adjusting it may not work. You'll know because when you adjust the slack out you'll feel a rough spot from excessive wear on the worm gear in the straight-ahead position. As you turn the wheel either way from center you'll feel the slight bind. If that's the case, it's time for replacement. I had this happen to the box in my Excursion and replaced it with a Redhead steering box. They're a company in Seattle that remachines the cases to use bearings in place of bushings where possible. Very nice units, but like all the quality stuff, it's a little more expensive. I think the Ford box was about $100 over what other rebuilts cost, plus shipping both ways.



On the other hand, if your steering box was just adjusted too loose from the factory like mine and many others were, then adjusting it will probably work. Again, just make sure afterwards that you don't have a sticky spot when turning the wheel from the straight-ahead position.