What oil to use in Garden tractor

[jawmail]

I've got a 1997 Cub Cadet garden tractor with a 15 hp Kubota deisel in it, runs like a champ. Doesn't typically start when the temp. is much below 40 deg. F, even with a charged battery straight out of the house. The manual says 10W30 for temps. below 32F, my question is can I use 5W40 synthetic (Delvac or Rotella) in it for the winter months so I can get it started to plow ?? Would the sythetic do anything bad to the engine.

 

[nickleinonen]

it will be fine to use 5w40...

 

[Chief USA]

As already mentioned that oil will work just fine and try applying glow plug heat for about 20 - 30 seconds prior to starting attempts. My old Kubota L245 required glow plug heat for about that much time to start no matter what the temps. were.

 

[Babyfat]

engine oil doesn't have a lot to do with it, your turning the trans also, cub had a disconnect kit for easyer starts in cold that helped, what model tractor is it?

 

[jawmail]

It's a 1572D.

 

[Babyfat]

that should have clutch diconnect in it make sure its working and not locked up, also put a 260 or 280 cca battery in it, should help

 

[supersonic]

I had the same problems with our Kubota G-1900 (same setup) Kept puking batteries left and right. Glow plugs are a real problem with these engines, usually replace one or two a year. Took em out and pluged the holes on ours, now I use ether. I don't reccomend doing this though. I changed to 5w-40 syn and it helped a bit but not enough. The real downfall is the starting system itself. That little direct drive starter is a real piece of work . I noticed on one of the last remaining new models of this tractor that they started using a nice little gear reduction unit. But I couldn't order one for a few months because the dealers computers wouldn't be updated with the new parts info. Due to that and the fact that my current one needed replacing NOW, I went to the junk yard with a list of specs and a set of dial calipers in hand. what I found is a Denso starter off a 2001 Chevy Prisim mated up pretty well. I had to take a sandpaper flapper wheel in the die grinder and ream the hole out and filed on the shoulder of the starter until it fit just right. Now it starts like a dream. I don't even need to hit it with ether any more. Even a nearly dead battery will crank it enough to start it (Thanks to POS alternater). I would definately recommend this upgrade. Just remember that when putting the starter in the pilot hole you put a good smear of anti sieze on it as both pieces are aluminum and prone to corrosion which canlead to alot of swearing if you ever have to take it apart again.

 

[kentdiesel]

Jawmail,

If you have a 1572 then it would be about a 1987 model.

On my 1772 Cub Cadet I put a Coolant heater in it.

These are not offered by Cub Cadet or Kubota. A company called Zero-Start makes them. They are 400 watts and will heat the engine to operating temp in 35-45 minutes. Plugging in 5 minutes before you crank it will make a huge difference. You will have to machine a hole in the plate that holds the fan to the engine. The heater goes in the freeze plug hole in the head.



Here is a link to Zero Start

http://www.zerostart.com/pub_AppGuides.asp



You can download their catolog, its a PDF file.

Look on page 54, your engine is a kubota D600

And the Heater part# is 3100099

I bought mine at a Freightliner dealership since they were a zero start dealer. It was about $23. 00

I ran the cord out the grille so its easy to plug up.

Here is a pic of how the plate has to be cut.

PM me with your email address for more pics if you want.



After I installed the heater I didn't need a gear reduction starter. However, if the bushings in the original starter are worn out it will drag no matter how many batteries are used to jump it. I had the one on my 882D cub rebuilt for $40. 00 Please don't use starting fluid, a coolant heater and the original starter in good condition will do just fine. However, if you want a Gear Reduction starter this web site has them. http://ccspecialties.org/engine_exhaust.html



As for the oil I like Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40

I know the sticker under the hood says do not use synthetic oil but I don't consider Rotella Synthetic a true synthetic because it is only a Group 3 oil and true synthetics are Group 4. I have ran Rotella Synthetic since it came out and have had no problems.

Kent

 

[jawmail]

Great info. guys, I appriciate it. KentDiesel, regarding the steel fan plate, does it come off without removing the fan or radiator, etc. I looked at mine and it looks like I can remove about 6 or 8 bolts and it pops right off. I like the idea of a coolant heater, the price is right too.

 

[kentdiesel]

Getting the plate off is a easy job.



The way I remove the plate is:

Remove the air filter canister and bracket.



Remove the fan idler pulley and bracket.



Put a couple rags over the fan then remove the two bolts on top that hold the fan assembly, then gently lay the fan assembly against the radiator.



Mark the plate were the freeze plug is so you will have a reference to cut by.



Remove the plate, it will slide out from behind the bracket that goes to the exhaust.



You don't have to remove the radiator or fan shroud.



You'll have a mixture of metric and standard bolts to remove since the engine is metric and the tractor is standard.



I cut the plate in a milling machine but a hole saw or a drill and saws-all would work fine.



Be sure you get the engine full of coolant before you plug the heater in.

In my two diesel cub cadets I have had good results running Caterpillar Premix Extended Life Coolant. I figure if it will last 600,000 miles in a truck it ought to be good enough for my garden tractor.



Kent

 

[jawmail]

Thanks again, I will have to try this.