What Pilot Bushing

[RPerrenoud]

I ordered the South Bend Con OFE clutch and will be installing it real soonOo. What pilot bearing is the best one to use the Kevlar or the needle type. I do not believe there is any damage to the input shaft at this point because I have been babying the beast until I was able to get the South Bend

 

[Deezul1]

When i changed to Southbend Peter told me to use the stock needle type bearing as the kevlar was more of a problem solver type setup. If you are not sure call Peter at Southbend and ask.

 

[gitchesum]

I just used the needle bearing in mine. I had a flywheel I could have had machined, but I really didn't see the need for it.

 

[Don M]

I thought there was an updated bearing from DC? Maybe not. My input shaft was trashed when I pulled my transmission out for the rebuild. I decided to go with the Kevlar bushing cuz the flywheel was pretty chewed up from the damage. Standard Trans machined the flywheel perfectly to accept the bushing.

The Kevlar is a fix for the problem I had. If all would have been ok, I would have gone with the roller type.



Don~

 

[Todd T]

Don is right, unless you have an existing problem the best replacement is the new needle bearing. or second choice being an oil inpregnated one of some sort.



the Kevlar is really to fix it up without buying a new flywheel if its chewed up from a wabbly input shaft.

 

[RPerrenoud]

Thank you all for your input, I cant wait to install the clutch, 3000 GSK and piers 35 turbo. It all will be going in real soon.



Oo.

 

[rhoads]

Bearing

I beg to differ with the resopnders - But- you would be best advised to trash that needle bearing.

I am of the school of do it once - Do it right-and never have to touch that area again... If you have the transmission out ,and you know there is a problem in this area ,( here you have to ask the guestion why did SBC put so much time and testing in to a replacement)---why would you replace a rusted,thin -tin-caged needel bearing(which can't) be exterently re- greased , would you pay $10 for a OEM replacement of the same make up.

I'm not there but i know when you removed the transmission and peaked into the bearing/ flywheel area you found rust dust traped between the crank/flywheel/input shaft area . now this is like min. 1000 grit emery wearing on all parts--sure you can blow it out --install new d/c part (cheap at first glance) looks good what the hay..... Say what you want but this are will be revisited...

What is your time worth?? D/C will charge min $50 P hr. X's 3 out + 3 in You do the math !!

Mine is still in place for over 499 k +?? KEVLAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

I found these in 97 and have aways carried a couple as i crossed the states and sold at cost to other owners at fuel stops that had the proplem.

But then on the other hand why fret ,let the next owner deal with it.

Ive never owned a vehicle less than 10 years check back in 5

Need a bearing i have a couple left-- e-mail -send a check - will fed-ex Ground anywhere lower 48. (at cost)

 

[South Bend Clutch]

Concerning the choices... .



Some vehicles have problems and some vehicles do not but the question is which is better. I would say that the kevlar is better for the reasons stated above. The kevlar also provides a little breathing room for the vibration of the diesel. The problem that we started encoring was not failure of the kevlar bushing but more so that the machine shop selected by the customer would not always take the time to find center. I had one guy in New York; he got the job done at what he thought was a good place and 3000 miles later on a trip the kevlar pilot bushing walked its way out of the flywheel leaving him stranded. $900 for a new flywheel and the labor to do the work. After I took that flywheel to our machine shop, it was . 006 off and with something that rotates that makes it . 012 off. So, we tried to be explicit as possible in our instructions with warnings and everything else to spell out the importance of this procedure and still get some errors, so it forced us to tell people to ONLY use for emergence or repair so warranty situations are not shoved down our throats for something that was out of our control.



I hope this makes sense.



Peter

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Good points in the above posts.



A couple more thoughts: the bell housing can be off center, side to side, or up and down. It can also be farther out from the flywheel in one place. Use a dial indicator if at all possible to verify alignment, so whatever pilot bearing/bushing you use will last and not take out the transmission input shaft bearings.

I have seen a lot of the stock needle bearings that failed. Many had just steel powder and the outer bearing shell, still in the flywheel. The input shaft bearing surface was trashed. Standard Trans can sell you a new input/4th gear but it isn't too cheap (something like $125) and you really need to reshim the mainshaft endplay afterwards. It's more if you need the bearing(s). If not taking out the main shaft you could have a shop machine the sealing surface of the front bearing retainer for tighter clearance, or use a gasket for more. Far better is prevention.



If you don't want to machine the flywheel, use an oilite bronze bushing, . 75" ID, 1" OD, about 1" long, and install it with loctite behind (after cleaning with lacquer thinner), and the input nose dry. If you want to do the flywheel and put in the Kevlar bushing, that's a good fix too.



The basic problem with the roller and ball bearing setups is that they will never get more grease than they had new. Heat and vibration provide a leakage path and dry up the grease eventually. Failure follows. If the trans is not perfectly aligned to the crankshaft, the hard needle or ball bearings are not forgiving while bronze and kevlar are somewhat tolerant.



If you are paying attention, you will notice the clutch release is not as clean, or even hear the input shaft rub on the front bearing retainer, when the bushing gets worn. By the time you are likely to hear anything from the needle bearing, it is too late and you have to buy a bunch of parts.