what rear axle do I have, no rwal sensor dually

[Philip]

I think the best way out on that axle is to look for a complete set of backing plates. I bet you need to find a set from a 3/4 or 1 ton chevy full size van (not a bread van). I remember measuring one many years ago to use as a possible swap into a 72 C30 I had. It was around the same width you measured. It will have emg brake cable mount provisions close to the stock Dodge set. You will still need the Dodge cables. The Chevy's use a two short cables that attach to a long cable the runs threw two balance points to apply the same tension to both sides. The Dodge uses one short cable and one long into a single metal balance to pull both cable the same amount. That is why brake adjustment is so critical on a Dodge rear brake setup. It doesn't have the travel that the GM setup does.



If you are running duals. I don't think a set of Dodge rims will clear 13" drums.



I just did a little looking at this site. Look at the GM 10. 5 ring gear gasket. flip it 180 degrees and it is for your cover. The model 70 has a different cover gasket.



http://truckparts-specialists.com/catalog/axles/axle-gasket-picture-index.htm

C/K 35, G30, V 15/35 1973-97

Looks like 73 to 97 anything C/K/G models. So that opens the selection up some. C/K are pickups. G is full size vans. The V series I have know Idea what that body style is. I think this is the axle that is called the 14 bolt corperate model.

 

[GMichaels]

The cover I have is a is a 10 bolt like the dana 70. I found the correct dodge axle, but its on the west coast, I live in upstate NY.



will call some yards this week in search of the correct axle. will also go to auto parts store and see how much parts are for the current set up.



Do you know how many tons it takes to press on those bearings to the carrier?



Thanks for the help

 

[Philip]

The carrier bearings are not to hard of a press fit. Any shop that has a press can handle it. Myself I just use a propane torch and warm up the inner race for about a minute or so and drop the bearing on. If you use a oxy/acc torch make it 30 seconds of heat. Do not heat enough to change to color of the inner race. Just light heat to expand it is all that is needed.



Have you tried this place? Its in your state.



http://www.actionsalvage.com/product.htm



Here is another one you might try calling.



http://www.dumbleton.com/



Here is another one. No website.



D&D Truck parts Bellport, NY. 631-286-1616



Here is another one.



Hitch King Auto Salvage , Flushing, New York , 718-628-8720



Here is another one.



http://usedautoparts.com/



Here is another one.



W. T`s Mobil Repair ,Cottekill, New York ,845-687-0720



There has to be one closer than the west cost. I wish I could remember the name of the yard I bought mine from out in Neb. They had a good stock of CTD parts when I got mine.

 

[1stgen4evr]

Bearings

If you know how to inspect the old bearings and determine that there is no spalling on the races or rollers, you can just shim them and keep going. An old bearing that is not breaking down is just as good as a new one even though there is wear that needs to be compensated with shims. You don't even have to take everything out if you are only going to reshim the ring gear section. In the picture of the centersection, you see some pockets on each side that are about 3/4 of an inch in diameter and 1/2 inch deep. Those pockets are for the spreader tool to force the houseing apart a bit to get the shims in more easily. That allows the carrier to be preloaded a couple of thousandths. Most likely you will be adding shims to the left side to tighten the ring against the pinion. If you have seen the wear that is common after high miles service you realize that the ring and pinion will work with a good deal more clearance than is factory setup. I decided to look at mine (420k miles) and it has at least a 32nd of side motion and will have to be shimmed soon but I drove it to Houston with no ill effect (800 miles). The thing that is a sure killer on axles or hubs is low fluid levels and loss of lubrication.



Be careful to press only on the inner race and not against the rest of the bearing when installing the new bearings. You can make a sort of tube driver to bump the new ones on. You may in fact find that the bearings are not tight at all. Then you will have to decide if you want to replace the carrier. But you already know that the rear axle can be a can of worms.



You will not find any negative in using the chevy rear if you get the e brakes, etc hooked up. In fact the way the bearings are setup on the hubs, the chevy utilizes a slightly larger bearing on the outboard end. No doubt someone has killed a chevy axle but I have never seen one that failed at the hub. Once you get things functional, the chevy axle will be completely satisfactory.



I have also noticed that there seem to be plenty spare parts on the west coast. I have been looking for a 3:07 of any condition for a dually and see lots of ads there. Well none for a 3:07 but plenty otherwise.



Don't know what exact brake part to tell you to get but the chevys have duals that fit the drums so I am thinking you can resolve that as well.



I am thinking you would be well served to have a complete parts truck.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[GMichaels]

I have tried a few yards around me, dumbletons did not have anything, they are around the corner and a large yard. suspect the price may be out of reach for such a rare axle. you never know. .





1stgen4evr, I thought this was a dana, but it may be 10. 5 chevy, I cannot tell the difference from the inside, is there a difference as far as the carrier goes?? If it is a chevy 10. 5, then the shims go on first then the bearing, like a 70?



The bearings look fine, was going to replace them, but may will save some money if there is no ill effect long term. they are timkons (spelling).



How would you clean bearings? with brake clean then reoil? I may have gotten a little dirt in them from my hands.



I have a 50 to press, removing them may be more of a challenge.

I did not put a indicator on it before i removed, but suspect 1/16 side play. should I preload?



I can get a photo of the carrier if there is a difference in a 70 and a chevy 10. 5



brake parts, are they just mild steel?

 

[1stgen4evr]

hummmm

While there are some specific differences in carriers, they all are very similar as they must do the same thing. If I could get my hands on the thing I could give you good advise but over the wire---. Not so sure of what to tell you. I can say that 50 tons is way more than it should require to move the bearings. . You need a splitter to get behind the bearing and even then if you are not careful you will distort the roller cage and will not be able to reuse the bearings. Same for new bearings if you don't get the shims right the first time.



Clean them with anything you feel comfortable to use as a solvent and blow them clean. Examine for spalling and decide if they are reusable.



It has been long enough that I don't remember if the cups have shims between them and the housing. My foggy memory says no. If they do or did, you can add shims there to bring the setings to spec. Someone else jump in who has done this more recently.



I am going to have to do mine pretty soon but not tomorrow. From my perspective as a machinist, it doesn't matter where the shims are placed as long as they do the required adjustment. I remember that some times the carrier has no shims. The shims are in fact the result of wide tolerances in the maching process.



As I am thinking about the shim process, I remember that the shims do go on the carrier and then the bearing.



Hope someone with recent experience will get in the discussion.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[GMichaels]

Update, Found that this axle is a dana 70 out of a ford. The brake backing plates are chevy, ford never used 13 inch drums.



So now I will try and find a way to make emergency brake hardware, and maybe I can make this set up work. I do get plenty of laughs when I call looking for parts, they ask make , model and year, I say 93 dodge, ford axle, chevy brakes... .







greg

 

[jlast]

keep it, should be 35 splined 1. 5 shafts, compared to the 32 spline shafts we have. I am actually trying to upgrade as soon as i can!



find new backing plates, and such for the brakes or look into $$$ with a e brake on the case.

wonder if a d60 brake parts would bolt on?