What screws to turn for power?

[CBeeman]

Sorry I know this has been talked about before. On a 92 what do you do after you have the cover off the top? The instructions I have says to remove the diaphragm. I couldnt get it to come out and didnt want to break anything? I already gave the screw in the back and on top 2 turns.

Chris

 

[ttbird]

I see a lot of folks here have looked but no one has posted, so here what I would do. Check with Dave Goodman on DTR.com cause he a great guy and knows 1 st gens. real good. He'll help you out if anyone can.

 

[TSuter]

In the FAQs there is a sticky for performance adjustments.



Tom

 

[PToombs]

I assume it has gauges? The screw in the back, with the cover, is the fuel screw, gives more fuel all across the band. Also makes idle go up. The one on top is the "smoke screw". It pushes the cone down, preloading the internals. If you pull the top screws, twist gently on the diaphragm while pulling up, the pin has to go over a lip on the cone. Don't hit the throttle while the cone is out, if you do, you have to push the pin back in with a small screwdriver. Look at the cone, see how it's offset? Put it back in with the deepest part of the cone towards the back. This is the part you grind to customize the cone. Most people call it the "pin", I think it's misleading. See the starwheel under the spring, under the diaphragm? Turn that down, it lessons the pressure needed to push the cone down.



Check the stickies for more info. All the info you need is right here, no need to go to DTR

If you have any more questions, ask here or send me a PM, I'll be glad to help if I can!

 

[dpuckett]

Good info, Pete, with the exception of which way to orient the deep part of the tapered cone- it needs to face the FRONT of the engine, not the back. Unless you were talking about grinding a custom profile on it?



A general rule of thumb for adjusting fuel related stuff on the VE- clockwise gives more fuel; CCW gives less fuel. I'm sure there is an exception I am forgetting at this time.



Daniel

 

[PToombs]

Yup, you're right DP! I was thinking it tapers to the back.



Oh, and the exception? Is the high idle screw. :-laf

 

[Makaio]

Chris,

Just a word of caution, go easy on the smoke screw (T-25 torx locked w/ a 13mm or 1/2"). Turning it CW adds more low end fueling. Good for get up and go around town and more smoke. EGT's climb faster and take longer to cool down. Fuel mileage will suffer too. With an auto, turned up fuel screw and smoke screw will cause your rig to want to creep forward in gear almost calling for both feet on the brake pedal. Your call. Bomb on! Oo.

Aloha,
Matt

 

[CBeeman]

Thanks for all your help that what I needed!Oo.

Chris

 

[Jgolden]

This is a grest spot to get info. These guys helped me turn a "hardly able to move" 1st gen motorhome, into great way to travel. Check the 'stickies", try the search, then post if you need translation or more info. lots of good info here.

If you get more fuel, then you need to think about getting rid of heat and more open exhaust. . and on and on. All good.



PS: Pine Grove ( your just off 81 right/) have any good diesel fuel stops? I used to stop at Ravine, but long climb out of that exit going north on I-81.

 

[CBeeman]

Jgolden,

Actually I am about 4 miles from that truck stop. The stop in Ravine (104) is probably the cheapest you will find. The Pine Grove exit (100) is always more expensive for some reason but the hill aint so bad. With the price of fuel now no stop is a good stop.

Chris

 

[Jgolden]

Thanks, good to know. I haven't been that way since my last power up grades, so I'll have to try that hill. !2,000lbs plus a towed car can take a while to get in motion.

Maybe I can get Pete Toombs to help me set a Diesel motorhome land speed record, and hills won't matter.

 

[dpuckett]

Forward creep with auto

I have found that if the transmission wants to creep forward (You dont have to worry if your torque convertor is stock), just lower the idle. It wont hurt anything as long as you have charging and oil pressure, and it will be easier on your transmission. With a manual, I'd rather have the idle a little higher (50-75rpm), as it makes clutch engagement easier and smoother. At least with a Sachs clutch with more miles than the truck.



DP