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what settings would yall suggest I run???

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Got your PM, but will answer here! What do you want to accomplish? Sheer power or maximum fun around town?



If you're looking for best dyno numbers, the TST + a bit of MP8 pressure will yield you the best. At least that is what it did for me.



Maximum fun around town = Smarty plus TST to dial in your injector duration.



I've found that the Smarty gave about 100 ft-lb low end (~ +/- 2000 rpm) torque benefit, but gave up about 50 HP on the upper end versus a TST+pressure box stack. This rpm range is where you're normally driving around town anyway. The Smarty + TST gave the "most area under the curve" graphs too as well as the flattest torque curves, which suggests better driveability by having more available torque at lower rpms.



If you have the adjustable timing TST, then you can run the Smarty timing programs + say 3* or 6* TST timing. Cquestad on DTR and I dynoed late last year and we tried all different Smarty programs and found that the Smarty timing program plus 6* TST timing with his stock injectors produced the best HP numbers without giving up the monster Smarty low-end.



Myself, I normally run with the Smarty on #1 (30 HP timing) plus TST (early 03 twins) on 1x0 w/ 3* timing with Flux 2 injectors. Then I just turn up the TST power # as needed.
 
Got your PM, but will answer here! What do you want to accomplish? Sheer power or maximum fun around town?



If you're looking for best dyno numbers, the TST + a bit of MP8 pressure will yield you the best. At least that is what it did for me.



Maximum fun around town = Smarty plus TST to dial in your injector duration.



I've found that the Smarty gave about 100 ft-lb low end (~ +/- 2000 rpm) torque benefit, but gave up about 50 HP on the upper end versus a TST+pressure box stack. This rpm range is where you're normally driving around town anyway. The Smarty + TST gave the "most area under the curve" graphs too as well as the flattest torque curves, which suggests better driveability by having more available torque at lower rpms.



If you have the adjustable timing TST, then you can run the Smarty timing programs + say 3* or 6* TST timing. Cquestad on DTR and I dynoed late last year and we tried all different Smarty programs and found that the Smarty timing program plus 6* TST timing with his stock injectors produced the best HP numbers without giving up the monster Smarty low-end.



Myself, I normally run with the Smarty on #1 (30 HP timing) plus TST (early 03 twins) on 1x0 w/ 3* timing with Flux 2 injectors. Then I just turn up the TST power # as needed.

ANY GRAPHS YOU COULD SEND ME ON YOUR DYNO RUN'S ? I HAVE A TST AND WILL BE SENDING IT BACK FOR THE TIMING UPGRADE SOON , THANKS
 
Got your PM, but will answer here! What do you want to accomplish? Sheer power or maximum fun around town?



If you're looking for best dyno numbers, the TST + a bit of MP8 pressure will yield you the best. At least that is what it did for me.



Maximum fun around town = Smarty plus TST to dial in your injector duration.



I've found that the Smarty gave about 100 ft-lb low end (~ +/- 2000 rpm) torque benefit, but gave up about 50 HP on the upper end versus a TST+pressure box stack. This rpm range is where you're normally driving around town anyway. The Smarty + TST gave the "most area under the curve" graphs too as well as the flattest torque curves, which suggests better driveability by having more available torque at lower rpms.



If you have the adjustable timing TST, then you can run the Smarty timing programs + say 3* or 6* TST timing. Cquestad on DTR and I dynoed late last year and we tried all different Smarty programs and found that the Smarty timing program plus 6* TST timing with his stock injectors produced the best HP numbers without giving up the monster Smarty low-end.



Myself, I normally run with the Smarty on #1 (30 HP timing) plus TST (early 03 twins) on 1x0 w/ 3* timing with Flux 2 injectors. Then I just turn up the TST power # as needed.



I am gonna dyno my truck in May,what settings would you suggest I run to give me the best dyno #'s,also do you say you run timing on the TST and the Smarty is that alright to do that,I have had guys say that aint good to do that
 
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Got your PM, but will answer here! What do you want to accomplish? Sheer power or maximum fun around town?



If you're looking for best dyno numbers, the TST + a bit of MP8 pressure will yield you the best. At least that is what it did for me.



Maximum fun around town = Smarty plus TST to dial in your injector duration.



I've found that the Smarty gave about 100 ft-lb low end (~ +/- 2000 rpm) torque benefit, but gave up about 50 HP on the upper end versus a TST+pressure box stack. This rpm range is where you're normally driving around town anyway. The Smarty + TST gave the "most area under the curve" graphs too as well as the flattest torque curves, which suggests better driveability by having more available torque at lower rpms.



If you have the adjustable timing TST, then you can run the Smarty timing programs + say 3* or 6* TST timing. Cquestad on DTR and I dynoed late last year and we tried all different Smarty programs and found that the Smarty timing program plus 6* TST timing with his stock injectors produced the best HP numbers without giving up the monster Smarty low-end.



Myself, I normally run with the Smarty on #1 (30 HP timing) plus TST (early 03 twins) on 1x0 w/ 3* timing with Flux 2 injectors. Then I just turn up the TST power # as needed.



I have the adjustable timing and rail pressure on my TST,to get the best dyno #'s what should I set my TST,Smarty,MP8 on to get the best results,I am planin to put it on the dyno in May at TS Performance's rally
 
I have the adjustable timing and rail pressure on my TST,to get the best dyno #'s what should I set my TST,Smarty,MP8 on to get the best results,I am planin to put it on the dyno in May at TS Performance's rally



Honestly, I don't know what settings you should run. Every truck is different. I also have injectors, you don't so there's a huge variable.



Generally the best numbers come from lower Te settings so you don't drain the rail early as well as a bit of pressure.



My best numbers before the modded CP3 and with 90 HP honed injectors were at 4x2 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~540 HP uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo.



When I got the modded CP3 installed, my best numbers with 90 HP honed injectors were at 5x1 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~596 HP uncorrected with BD twins. When I added the Smarty to the mix, my max HP dropped ~50 HP, but my low end TQ increased by about 100 ft-lb.



All the above was before I got my TST upgraded to the adjustable timing.



If you really want to find out your best settings you need to book about 1 hr private dyno time, rather than paying the $50 for 2-3 runs and just randomly picking settings. For the 1 hr time you can get about 15-20 runs in and test any setting combo you want.



When you dyno, watch your exhaust smoke and EGT. If you are getting a lot of both, you're probably draining the rail and therefore should back down on the Te setting one point and perhaps increase the Power setting. Maybe decrease the Te setting two points. and leave the Power setting where it is at.



If you are just getting high EGT, but smoke is relatively clean, that would suggest that your rail is not being drained and you are still making power.
 
Honestly, I don't know what settings you should run. Every truck is different. I also have injectors, you don't so there's a huge variable.



Generally the best numbers come from lower Te settings so you don't drain the rail early as well as a bit of pressure.



My best numbers before the modded CP3 and with 90 HP honed injectors were at 4x2 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~540 HP uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo.



When I got the modded CP3 installed, my best numbers with 90 HP honed injectors were at 5x1 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~596 HP uncorrected with BD twins. When I added the Smarty to the mix, my max HP dropped ~50 HP, but my low end TQ increased by about 100 ft-lb.



All the above was before I got my TST upgraded to the adjustable timing.



If you really want to find out your best settings you need to book about 1 hr private dyno time, rather than paying the $50 for 2-3 runs and just randomly picking settings. For the 1 hr time you can get about 15-20 runs in and test any setting combo you want.



When you dyno, watch your exhaust smoke and EGT. If you are getting a lot of both, you're probably draining the rail and therefore should back down on the Te setting one point and perhaps increase the Power setting. Maybe decrease the Te setting two points. and leave the Power setting where it is at.



If you are just getting high EGT, but smoke is relatively clean, that would suggest that your rail is not being drained and you are still making power.



David Dunbar charges $75. 00 a pop when he dyno's,I would hate to see what he charges for 15 to 20 runs,also is there any need in me getting injectors before I get a modded cp3,also when I go to dyno,(I wont have my modded pump before then)do I even need to have the smarty on or shall I just dyno the TST and the MP8,what's the max timing # I need to set the TST on,can I run timing on both the TST and the Smarty,also is the modded pump worth the extra money????



PS. what did you mean when you said 540 hp uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo
 
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Honestly, I don't know what settings you should run. Every truck is different. I also have injectors, you don't so there's a huge variable.



Generally the best numbers come from lower Te settings so you don't drain the rail early as well as a bit of pressure.



My best numbers before the modded CP3 and with 90 HP honed injectors were at 4x2 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~540 HP uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo.



When I got the modded CP3 installed, my best numbers with 90 HP honed injectors were at 5x1 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~596 HP uncorrected with BD twins. When I added the Smarty to the mix, my max HP dropped ~50 HP, but my low end TQ increased by about 100 ft-lb.



All the above was before I got my TST upgraded to the adjustable timing.



If you really want to find out your best settings you need to book about 1 hr private dyno time, rather than paying the $50 for 2-3 runs and just randomly picking settings. For the 1 hr time you can get about 15-20 runs in and test any setting combo you want.



When you dyno, watch your exhaust smoke and EGT. If you are getting a lot of both, you're probably draining the rail and therefore should back down on the Te setting one point and perhaps increase the Power setting. Maybe decrease the Te setting two points. and leave the Power setting where it is at.



If you are just getting high EGT, but smoke is relatively clean, that would suggest that your rail is not being drained and you are still making power. [/QUOTE





Am i close to 500 hp at the wheels with my setup now,or what do you think from youre experience with youre's prior to the injectors and modded cp3
 
Honestly, I don't know what settings you should run. Every truck is different. I also have injectors, you don't so there's a huge variable.



Generally the best numbers come from lower Te settings so you don't drain the rail early as well as a bit of pressure.



My best numbers before the modded CP3 and with 90 HP honed injectors were at 4x2 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~540 HP uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo.



When I got the modded CP3 installed, my best numbers with 90 HP honed injectors were at 5x1 + ~30% MP8 pressure. This was ~596 HP uncorrected with BD twins. When I added the Smarty to the mix, my max HP dropped ~50 HP, but my low end TQ increased by about 100 ft-lb.



All the above was before I got my TST upgraded to the adjustable timing.



If you really want to find out your best settings you need to book about 1 hr private dyno time, rather than paying the $50 for 2-3 runs and just randomly picking settings. For the 1 hr time you can get about 15-20 runs in and test any setting combo you want.



When you dyno, watch your exhaust smoke and EGT. If you are getting a lot of both, you're probably draining the rail and therefore should back down on the Te setting one point and perhaps increase the Power setting. Maybe decrease the Te setting two points. and leave the Power setting where it is at.



If you are just getting high EGT, but smoke is relatively clean, that would suggest that your rail is not being drained and you are still making power.



Do you think I am around 500 hp right now with my setup,just comparing it to youre's prior to you adding the modded pump and injectors
 
David Dunbar charges $75. 00 a pop when he dyno's,I would hate to see what he charges for 15 to 20 runs,



I pay $100 for 1 hour of dyno time. This usually stretches out to 1. 5 to 2 hrs for the same price since I am trying different Smarty settings or letting the truck cool down a bit. The place has all my runs saved on their computer since I was practically stock so that I can call up any run to compare.



do I even need to have the smarty on or shall I just dyno the TST and the MP8



In my experience the TST + MP8 gave the higher dyno numbers by 50 HP, but it felt like driving a two stroke on the street.



what's the max timing # I need to set the TST on,can I run timing on both the TST and the Smarty,



Generally TST timing + non-timing Smarty programs or turn the TST timing off and run the Smarty timing programs. Each truck is different.



also is the modded pump worth the extra money????



Depends what you want to accomplish. If you're pretty content at ~550 HP or less, then you wouldn't need a CP3. Whether you WANT one is another story. If you want to be >550 HP or so consistently or are drag racing / sled pulling then I would say the modded pump is worth it, although it looks like the dual CP3 set-ups are more the ticket. Also, the modded CP3 allows you to realize more of the potential from larger injectors in conjunction with say an electronic box by keeping the rail pressure up. What I found with the modded CP3 is no matter what HP settings I am running at, the modded CP3 dramatically improved the low end. It's like putting a mechanical Smarty on the truck.



PS. what did you mean when you said 540 hp uncorrected with a SPS 62 turbo



Generally, when you dyno you can get uncorrected (actual) or corrected numbers. Corrected means corrected for atmospheric conditions to some engineering standard. Depending on where you are at in the country corrections factors can be upwards of 20% or even a negative correction. Some people post corrected numbers because it makes them happy or they can claim bragging rights. All I care about is what is actually being put to the rear wheels that day. I dyno at the same place every time so that makes my numbers comparable to me. For example, the last time I dynoed I did 596 actual HP. The correction factor for that day was 5% so that would mean I did 595 x 1. 05 = 626 HP corrected. Another day I dynoed there, in a totally different season and different weather conditions, the correction factor was 20% so that same 596 HP would have been 596 x 1. 20 = 715 HP corrected. Now, I would be the first to call BS on this number because there are other trucks on here with similar mods as on my truck that have done ~600 HP actual too.



Do you think I am around 500 hp right now with my setup,just comparing it to youre's prior to you adding the modded pump and injectors



I think you should easily be at 500 HP with your mods. My buddy on DTR with stock injectors, but big Aurora 5K turbo did ~550 HP.



So this begs the question as to why I did injectors if I would still get the same numbers as the next guy with stock injectors? Well, I was just getting tired of electrical problems with boxes and programmers so I wanted to have reliable mechanical power addition. The power delivery from injectors is so much smoother than power delivery from say a TST.
 
I pay $100 for 1 hour of dyno time. This usually stretches out to 1. 5 to 2 hrs for the same price since I am trying different Smarty settings or letting the truck cool down a bit. The place has all my runs saved on their computer since I was practically stock so that I can call up any run to compare.







In my experience the TST + MP8 gave the higher dyno numbers by 50 HP, but it felt like driving a two stroke on the street.







Generally TST timing + non-timing Smarty programs or turn the TST timing off and run the Smarty timing programs. Each truck is different.







Depends what you want to accomplish. If you're pretty content at ~550 HP or less, then you wouldn't need a CP3. Whether you WANT one is another story. If you want to be >550 HP or so consistently or are drag racing / sled pulling then I would say the modded pump is worth it, although it looks like the dual CP3 set-ups are more the ticket. Also, the modded CP3 allows you to realize more of the potential from larger injectors in conjunction with say an electronic box by keeping the rail pressure up. What I found with the modded CP3 is no matter what HP settings I am running at, the modded CP3 dramatically improved the low end. It's like putting a mechanical Smarty on the truck.







Generally, when you dyno you can get uncorrected (actual) or corrected numbers. Corrected means corrected for atmospheric conditions to some engineering standard. Depending on where you are at in the country corrections factors can be upwards of 20% or even a negative correction. Some people post corrected numbers because it makes them happy or they can claim bragging rights. All I care about is what is actually being put to the rear wheels that day. I dyno at the same place every time so that makes my numbers comparable to me. For example, the last time I dynoed I did 596 actual HP. The correction factor for that day was 5% so that would mean I did 595 x 1. 05 = 626 HP corrected. Another day I dynoed there, in a totally different season and different weather conditions, the correction factor was 20% so that same 596 HP would have been 596 x 1. 20 = 715 HP corrected. Now, I would be the first to call BS on this number because there are other trucks on here with similar mods as on my truck that have done ~600 HP actual too.







I think you should easily be at 500 HP with your mods. My buddy on DTR with stock injectors, but big Aurora 5K turbo did ~550 HP.



So this begs the question as to why I did injectors if I would still get the same numbers as the next guy with stock injectors? Well, I was just getting tired of electrical problems with boxes and programmers so I wanted to have reliable mechanical power addition. The power delivery from injectors is so much smoother than power delivery from say a TST.



If I went Don M's F1 90 hp injectors would I need a modded pump,cause I hear guys say that the only way you will benefit from injectors on the commom rails is if you have a modded pump,they say you are already draining the rail with youre TST/MP8 and the Smarty,so why would you benefit from injectors,also do you think II dual feed line is worth it,I have one on but realy cant tell a difference... ..... thanks so far for youre help,I would like to hear all the imput you can give me,my goal is to be consistently at 550 hp,so what all do I need to do yet to accomplish that???
 
Like I mentioned earlier... I went with injectors because I wanted to rely more on simple, reliable, mechanical ,and smooth power as a baseline instead of using boxes. High power was actually a secondary, distant concern to me. If you want to use boxes instead of injectors then you can. Just remember, though, with stock injectors you can only get so much fuel injected before the duration is extended too far so that you're running fuel out the exhaust in terms of smoke and heat, rather than using the fuel to create "good power".



You don't NEED a modded pump with injectors. I drive around mostly at only 425-450 HP settings... and had no problem doing so with a stock CP3. Again, I just run like this on low power settings because 99% of the time it is good enough to get around town and I like the power delivery from the injectors. By the time I am in the rpm range where the higher power is available I am above legal speed limits anyway. The modded CP3 will just allow you to get more out of your injectors if you choose to go for the higher +550 HP or so.



There are truck's out there - mostly +04. 5 that can achieve 550 consistently with stock injectors and CP3. I think our 03-04 are pushing this number for whatever reason.



If you're really worried about modded CP3 versus injector size, why not get some smaller injectors - say 40-50 HP - like Fluxes or DDP's - ? Gypsyman, a member on here, did ~640 HP with 40 HP injectors and stock CP3. He played around a lot with box settings until he achieved this number.
 
Like I mentioned earlier... I went with injectors because I wanted to rely more on simple, reliable, mechanical ,and smooth power as a baseline instead of using boxes. High power was actually a secondary, distant concern to me. If you want to use boxes instead of injectors then you can. Just remember, though, with stock injectors you can only get so much fuel injected before the duration is extended too far so that you're running fuel out the exhaust in terms of smoke and heat, rather than using the fuel to create "good power".



You don't NEED a modded pump with injectors. I drive around mostly at only 425-450 HP settings... and had no problem doing so with a stock CP3. Again, I just run like this on low power settings because 99% of the time it is good enough to get around town and I like the power delivery from the injectors. By the time I am in the rpm range where the higher power is available I am above legal speed limits anyway. The modded CP3 will just allow you to get more out of your injectors if you choose to go for the higher +550 HP or so.



There are truck's out there - mostly +04. 5 that can achieve 550 consistently with stock injectors and CP3. I think our 03-04 are pushing this number for whatever reason.



If you're really worried about modded CP3 versus injector size, why not get some smaller injectors - say 40-50 HP - like Fluxes or DDP's - ? Gypsyman, a member on here, did ~640 HP with 40 HP injectors and stock CP3. He played around a lot with box settings until he achieved this number.



Okay,that imput helps me alot... thanks again for youre help
 
I pay $100 for 1 hour of dyno time. This usually stretches out to 1. 5 to 2 hrs for the same price since I am trying different Smarty settings or letting the truck cool down a bit. The place has all my runs saved on their computer since I was practically stock so that I can call up any run to compare.







In my experience the TST + MP8 gave the higher dyno numbers by 50 HP, but it felt like driving a two stroke on the street.







Generally TST timing + non-timing Smarty programs or turn the TST timing off and run the Smarty timing programs. Each truck is different.







Depends what you want to accomplish. If you're pretty content at ~550 HP or less, then you wouldn't need a CP3. Whether you WANT one is another story. If you want to be >550 HP or so consistently or are drag racing / sled pulling then I would say the modded pump is worth it, although it looks like the dual CP3 set-ups are more the ticket. Also, the modded CP3 allows you to realize more of the potential from larger injectors in conjunction with say an electronic box by keeping the rail pressure up. What I found with the modded CP3 is no matter what HP settings I am running at, the modded CP3 dramatically improved the low end. It's like putting a mechanical Smarty on the truck.







Generally, when you dyno you can get uncorrected (actual) or corrected numbers. Corrected means corrected for atmospheric conditions to some engineering standard. Depending on where you are at in the country corrections factors can be upwards of 20% or even a negative correction. Some people post corrected numbers because it makes them happy or they can claim bragging rights. All I care about is what is actually being put to the rear wheels that day. I dyno at the same place every time so that makes my numbers comparable to me. For example, the last time I dynoed I did 596 actual HP. The correction factor for that day was 5% so that would mean I did 595 x 1. 05 = 626 HP corrected. Another day I dynoed there, in a totally different season and different weather conditions, the correction factor was 20% so that same 596 HP would have been 596 x 1. 20 = 715 HP corrected. Now, I would be the first to call BS on this number because there are other trucks on here with similar mods as on my truck that have done ~600 HP actual too.







I think you should easily be at 500 HP with your mods. My buddy on DTR with stock injectors, but big Aurora 5K turbo did ~550 HP.



So this begs the question as to why I did injectors if I would still get the same numbers as the next guy with stock injectors? Well, I was just getting tired of electrical problems with boxes and programmers so I wanted to have reliable mechanical power addition. The power delivery from injectors is so much smoother than power delivery from say a TST.



Hi,this is me again,I have just installed a stage 3 snow performance kit on my 03,i am fixin to dyno it and what setting would you recommend me put the smarty/tst/mp8 on to get the best results,also are you familiar with the water methanol kit's,should I run 50/50 water and methanol???
 
Like I mentioned earlier... I went with injectors because I wanted to rely more on simple, reliable, mechanical ,and smooth power as a baseline instead of using boxes. High power was actually a secondary, distant concern to me. If you want to use boxes instead of injectors then you can. Just remember, though, with stock injectors you can only get so much fuel injected before the duration is extended too far so that you're running fuel out the exhaust in terms of smoke and heat, rather than using the fuel to create "good power".



You don't NEED a modded pump with injectors. I drive around mostly at only 425-450 HP settings... and had no problem doing so with a stock CP3. Again, I just run like this on low power settings because 99% of the time it is good enough to get around town and I like the power delivery from the injectors. By the time I am in the rpm range where the higher power is available I am above legal speed limits anyway. The modded CP3 will just allow you to get more out of your injectors if you choose to go for the higher +550 HP or so.



There are truck's out there - mostly +04. 5 that can achieve 550 consistently with stock injectors and CP3. I think our 03-04 are pushing this number for whatever reason.



If you're really worried about modded CP3 versus injector size, why not get some smaller injectors - say 40-50 HP - like Fluxes or DDP's - ? Gypsyman, a member on here, did ~640 HP with 40 HP injectors and stock CP3. He played around a lot with box settings until he achieved this number.



did you get my last questions??
 
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