Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What should gauges read & my rant

[sgf]

I got the 01 3500 back from the shop and the new electronic fuel pressure, boost and transmission temperature (read off the line type) are installed. I know that this question has been asked here but I cannot find the answer for a stock truck. Now that I have the gauges, what should normal readings be under what circumstances?



On a semi-related note, and a bit of a rant. I have two issues with this process that I'll toss out here, as I'm guessing I'm not alone. 1. These trucks cost a lot of money. It's is a shame that we have to go spend almost $800 (incl' shop install) to buy three gauges that the truck should have had to begin with. This isn't an issue of the company saving money using less chrome, we are talking about equipment every knowledgeable owner sees as a necessity, and no, it isn't just Dodge that does it.



Item 2 is mechanics that don't listen. When I had more time and before I owned this truck I did almost all my work myself. Because of that background I usually type a list that is very specific of what I want, and even that gets ignored sometimes. In the case of this gauge install, I talked to the shop owner and specifically told him I wanted the braided line and snubber I provided put in for the fuel pressure gauge. When I go to get the truck after they're closed, my wife who paid them earlier hands me the braided fuel line. Of course this means another trip. The owner is normally good to deal with and he readily concedes and says he'll install it. That's when his mechanic pulls me aside and explains that I don't need it. I point out that the line and snubber are a combined $50. 00 and that I didn't buy them to throw away money. I proceed to show him the manufacturer's document where I highlight that not using these parts will void the fuel pressure gauge warranty. At this point I see he's getting an attitude. He tells me with some measure of patronization that this is only for high performance applications. I respond, "Well, it appears you and the engineers that designed this system and tons of owners of these trucks disagree. " I say, "I'll follow your advice". This brings a smile to his face. I then say "Now all I need you to do is sign a written document explaining that you know the manufacture's recommendation to be wrong and that you will take financial responsibility if the mfg. determines the gauge was damaged as a result of instructions not being followed. " he didn't smile and the line will be installed.

 

[RonaldLarson]

Frankly, those gauges, as important as they are, don't mean squat to the average diesel buyer. I've actually talked with a used Cummins buyer who had no idea what boost is. Your number values are going to be unique to your truck and driving style. Fuel pressure, if the sender is installed correctly, depends entirely on what lift pump you have. EGT depends on where the probe is installed, and load carried. Trans temp should run no higher than 180, and unloaded, around 130-140 in warm weather.
I see no reason for braided line, if your talking about the feed line to the sender. It should be high pressure rated and fuel rated rubber. The electrical wires need not be braided, either.

 

[HBarlow]

Yeah, I agree with Ronald Larson above. I've had gauges on all three of my Rams I've owned and used them but the trucks would have provided good service without them.

I would be surprised if more than 25% of TDR members have gauges. Of the ones who do not have gauges, most don't really understand what boost and egt are or their significance and don't care.

 

[Bob4x4]

On a stock truck the gauges will help in diagnostics. As a new owner of gauges you can monitor them in different driving conditions and note what is normal for your truck while everything is good

 

[sgf]

Seems to me that regardless of one's understanding of the readings, be that person a diesel engineer or the opposite, there is value in seeing if something is different (reading) and getting it looked at if it is. If that weren't true there would be no reason for the truck to come stock with a coolant temp. or and oil pressure gauge. In my case I got the gauges because of the overwhelming input from owners here and at other sites stating that they are necessary for caring for this truck. In the case of the fuel pressure gauge, it is meant to save a $2,000 fuel pump repair and not leave me on the side of the road with a dead lift pump. I do realize these decisions are based on an owner's priorities. Where one person may think of these gauges as a necessity another might prefer something else.



The line I am talking about is this one. http://www.genosgarage.com/AUTO-METER-4-BRAIDED-STAINLESS-STEEL-LINE-KIT/productinfo/AM-3227/ This statement was enough for me "If you are installing an Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge in your '98-'02 (some '03) Dodge Turbo Diesel truck, you MUST install this #3227 braided stainless steel line kit and #3279 fuel pressure snubber to prevent premature failure of the sending unit. Failure to do so will void the gauge warranty. "

 

[Sticks]

IMO, that is Auto Meters way of selling another one of their products. Simply putting that a snubber should be installed and the fuel line secured in a fashion that keeps it from vibrating around and rubbing where it passes through the in the engine compartment would be sufficient. However, since Auto Meter did state specifically that, then you do have to abide by their warranty statement (I checked their website to make sure this was not a Genos thing).

I can see why they want the braided stainless line going into the gauge, so it is less likely to get rubbed through passing through the firewall and leak fuel inside the cab if you got the mechanical, but outside for the electric... Odd. Snubber yes, braided line... no.

I've had a plastic 1/16 line running inside to my gauge since 2003. It's bundled inside a group of wires that I have also run, ergo protected from rubbing.

 

[Sticks]

As for the rest of your rant regarding the shop not following your instructions... bad on them.

I've had some odd requests from customers and as stupid, pointless, or bad idea in general, I've abided by them (the bad ideas got a warning from me prior to performing).

 

[RonaldLarson]

The proper way to mount a pressure sender is to locate the sender OFF the engine. No sender will live under the vibratory conditions of mounting on the filter cannister. It is therefore un-neccesary to use any special line. Autometer may be in fact selling something that is not needed, and covering their butt by refusing warranty if not mounted with their line. My Westach is remotely mounted and has lived well and prospered for 11 years. Simply use a grease gun flex hose to attach, and zip tie the sender to the underhood harness along the firewall.