What should I do?

[SLightfoot]

Hi guys;



Not sure really which is the best forum to ask this - but this seems like a reasonable spot:



Here's the story:



The wife and I just put a deposit on a new 5th wheel. We've already got one - a 29 footer (that we now need to sell), and I have pulled it for the past 7 years with my '99 2500 QC 4X4.



The only trouble is, the new trailer is significantly bigger - 40 footer with a 2100# hitch weight. So with my 2500 I'm getting "out of bounds" with weights.



Soooooo... now I need to move up to a bigger truck - a new 3500 SRW perhaps. Here's the dilemna now.....



My '99 has been upgraded with a South Bend high-performance clutch (stock one used to slip), RV injectors, gauges, yadda yadda yadda... so it pulls really strong. It's been my baby for 7 years and it literally kills me to have to part with it - but everything has it's time, and it looks like it's gotta go to make room for a new bigger one.



The issue is that the new 6. 7L ones are due out soon, and there are still 5. 9L available in good quantity.

So now I'm wondering - do you think I should wait for the 6. 7L with all it's first-year issues, or just buy the 5. 9L?



To be honest, I haven't followed any of the 3rd gen truck discussions here to know what their little "sore spot" is, or where they are particularly strong. (On the '99's for example, it's the fuel pump issue).



How are these 3rd gen 5. 9L's holding up? Any issues I need to know about? How does the stock clutch hold up for extra power? Injection pumps OK?



I'm going to have to make a decusion soon, so I'd like to hear some advice about moving to the 3rd gen truck.



PS: If anyone wants a '99- I've got a sweetheart truck soon to be for sale.



Thanks guys.



Shawn

 

[Duluth Diesel]

One thing for sure, IMO, I'd so with a 3500 DRW, not SRW.

 

[Mundgyver]

Just a thought here, but if you want to keep your baby, why not convert it to a 3500 dually. All you need is the right axle and some fender flares or a new bed or ditch the bed and go with a new aluminum flatbed.



Be cheaper than buying a whole new truck and you would not be $45K to $50K in debt.



You should be able to do all that for under $6,000 I would think.



Just an idea and food for thought.

 

[SLightfoot]

One thing for sure, IMO, I'd so with a 3500 DRW, not SRW.

OK - can you explain the rationale more?

 

[seemore]

Towing stability with a dually is much better with that kind of weight!! Towing a 40 footer you will be at or above the tow rating of any pickup truck. Without going to a Medium Duty. :{

 

[SLightfoot]

Towing stability with a dually is much better with that kind of weight!! Towing a 40 footer you will be at or above the tow rating of any pickup truck. Without going to a Medium Duty. :{

It's not quite as bad as it sounds - Hitch weight is 2050 lbs and trailer weight is 11,900 lbs.



At least according to the GVWR and GCWR specs on the Dodge website for the 3500 SRW, it should be well within the limits.

They spec 2700 lbs payload weight and 23,000 lbs combined trailer weight.

We don't travel with water tanks filled and pack pretty light, so this should be fine, no?

 

[Duluth Diesel]

The added safety of 4 back tires (duallys) rather than singles is a huge plus. That's a lot of pin weight, and keep in mind that those specs are for an empty, dry trailer. Load up bedding, water, food, etc etc and weights only go up. It doesn't matter what airbags, springs, or hitch you have. With an SRW, you are still trusting two E rated tires. If you go with the SRW, go 3500 for sure and look seriously at 19. 5 rims with F or G rated singles. I've hauled some big trailers, including 42 foot 4-horse trailers with full living quarters. I consider the stability and safety of duallys a must with that much trailer. Blow a tire with duals, and you will be able to drive to a safe place to stop. Blow a rear on an overloaded single, and you are instantly slammed down on your rim and hoping for enough control to get to the side of the road. That's a lot of $$$ in truck and trailer and family to risk with overloaded tires. And besides, those campers are tall and awkward. The added stability will be noticed and welcome.



Converting the '99 to a dually would help a little, but you're still dealing with drum brakes and a Dana 70 axle. I don't think this is the best decision.

 

[DPKetchum]

Sounds like dually time to me with those specs. If not air bags etc. on your OLD truck is equal to a SRW 3500. Axels are the same. Only springs are differant.

 

[Duluth Diesel]

Axels are the same. Only springs are differant.

Not true. Dana 70 on the 2500, and Dana 80 on the 3500 in 1999. The only way a 2nd gen 2500 came with a Dana 80 was if it was a 2500HD, which I believe only came as a regular cab long bed.



I have a 2002 2500HD with Dana 80 rear, sway bar, 1-ton springs, and Timbrens. My tires (SRW) are still my weak link, and limit what I'll haul with this truck. Back when we had the 42 foot living quarters horse trailer, we hauled it with 1-ton dually trucks. Blew a dual once, and we were able to continue on in safety to a safer spot to change it out.



Just trying to err on the side of having a truck capable and safe to do the task and give informed, good advice.



-Chuck

 

[SLightfoot]

With an SRW, you are still trusting two E rated tires. If you go with the SRW, go 3500 for sure and look seriously at 19. 5 rims with F or G rated singles.



Converting the '99 to a dually would help a little, but you're still dealing with drum brakes and a Dana 70 axle. I don't think this is the best decision.

I wasn't even considering the 2500 at all. It's really just the 3500 I was looking at SRW.

I really don't want to get into conversion of my old one at all.



Even on my 2500 I have ALWAYS run E rated Michelin's and they've been great.



My issue with going to DRW is that I drive unloaded 95% of the time and it's my daily driver to work (1 hour trip).

The added pain of having to park, replace 2 extra tires, etc is something that I need to consider seriously.



I understand the point about stability, but I guess I need to balance that against the other 95% of the time driving.



Hmmm... what to do, what to do.



I appreciate the comments guys.



Shawn

 

[CDonaldson]

SLightfoot.



I faced the 'new truck dillema' several years ago when I went to a longer and heavier trailer. I could not decide about the SRW vrs DRW and my old truck was running real good, I just hated to get rid of it. So, I picked up a DRW axle and put on a Bradford flatbed, this gave me the opportunity to see if I liked a DRW truck and what the towing differences would be, if any. I had already towed my new trailer some with the SRW, and after the conversion I was blown away by the differences of the DRW.



The other reason I went DRW was all about what happens when you have a flat on the rear when pulling a load close to the max of the truck with a SRW. Those accidents can just get flat out ugly, and many loose control with SRW's. Another place to take note is when you are in strong winds, the DRW is a much better tow also.



That was about 5 or 6 years ago, I still have the old truck and use it when I am pulling the larger trailer or loads that push the limit close. There is a noticeable, undeniable difference between the two tows. I did have a rear flat once at highway speeds and was furthermore glad I had the dually to get safely stopped.



You will also notice that I now have the 2006 3500 SRW. I am planning to sell my larger trailer and get something in the 26 ft range, a little less weight and in my estimation would be a little safer and more controllable if I experienced a rear flat with the SRW. I think it is all a matter of perspective on how one goes down the road, how one pushes the envelope, and how one thinks about safety. I have seen many SRW's towing some pretty big trailers, and talked to several who have had no problems. I have also talked to several who have totalled both their rig and trailer because of something as simple as a flat in what ended up to be also at the wrong place and time due to a miriad of circumstances beyond their control. There have also been those who have totalled thier SRW rigs and trailers due to sudden high winds.



As far as the 5. 9 vrs the new engine, the 5. 9 is a real workhorse with an excellent record. The new engine is the reason I bought my 2006, I did not want to purchase a 1st year out engine with an all new computer, etc. You are at the same crossroads that many have been at over the last year here on these forums. I would spend some time chatting with the guys on the 6. 7 forum area and learn from their first-hand experience with the new engine then make my choice and go for it. I would also spend some time thinking about the real differences between the SRW and DRW regarding safety hauling that 40 footer. You might even want to take a peek at the medium duty trucks just for another perpective on trucks. I know if I were going to keep my big trailer I would have gone a cab up to the medium duty when I bought a new truck last year. I could have still had the same engine I do now, and that is what/why I bought the truck I have now for, the engine. Or you could mod your existing truck and do a little fence sitting while enjoying that new trailer. I am sure you son't have one problem selling a DRW modded truck if you do it right when you finally make up your mind which way to go.



CD

 

[Duluth Diesel]

Good advice, CD.



As I stated in my earlier post, if you are not going to get the DRW, I suggest getting a 3500 SRW with 19. 5" F or G rated tires for a trailer of the size/weight you are talking about.

 

[WMcGuire]

I'll take a stab at this, I think the others that have chimed in have some good valid points, here are a couple more, That 2100#+ hitch weight can multiply a lot when going over speed bumps or the like or at the bottom of a dip at 60 mph, unless you have air bags even a 3500 will see a lot of times banging the rubber bumpers, I doub't there will be a lot of first years issues, the 6. 7 will be using the same Cummins engine technology as the other 3rd gens, the main change is in the exaust treatment, other than that it looks like the 07 models have more heavy duty options and more power, the issue of finding ULSD everywhere will soon fade away, if the SRW safety is an issue, it can be mitigated some by load re-distribution, driving slower, getting heavier rated tires, I've seen a few times when both dual tires blew, so DRW's arent assured safety, another point is SRW's are better for mounting snow chains in winter for the other 95% of the time you aren towing the trailer in Canada.

JMHO :-{}

 

[mymtnhauler]

Hi guys;



Not sure really which is the best forum to ask this - but this seems like a reasonable spot:



Here's the story:



The wife and I just put a deposit on a new 5th wheel. We've already got one - a 29 footer (that we now need to sell), and I have pulled it for the past 7 years with my '99 2500 QC 4X4.



The only trouble is, the new trailer is significantly bigger - 40 footer with a 2100# hitch weight. So with my 2500 I'm getting "out of bounds" with weights.



Soooooo... now I need to move up to a bigger truck - a new 3500 SRW perhaps. Here's the dilemna now.....



My '99 has been upgraded with a South Bend high-performance clutch (stock one used to slip), RV injectors, gauges, yadda yadda yadda... so it pulls really strong. It's been my baby for 7 years and it literally kills me to have to part with it - but everything has it's time, and it looks like it's gotta go to make room for a new bigger one.



The issue is that the new 6. 7L ones are due out soon, and there are still 5. 9L available in good quantity.

So now I'm wondering - do you think I should wait for the 6. 7L with all it's first-year issues, or just buy the 5. 9L?



To be honest, I haven't followed any of the 3rd gen truck discussions here to know what their little "sore spot" is, or where they are particularly strong. (On the '99's for example, it's the fuel pump issue).



How are these 3rd gen 5. 9L's holding up? Any issues I need to know about? How does the stock clutch hold up for extra power? Injection pumps OK?



I'm going to have to make a decusion soon, so I'd like to hear some advice about moving to the 3rd gen truck.



PS: If anyone wants a '99- I've got a sweetheart truck soon to be for sale.



Thanks guys.



Shawn

If you don't need to sell your 99 keep it. I did that when I got my 05! Oo.

 

[SLightfoot]

You've all made some great, valid points.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.



To be honest, I wasn't expecting the debatable topic to be the SRW vs DRW. I was anticipating a 5. 9L vs 6. 7L discussion, which is where my original concern was.



Now you've got me thinking about SRW vs DRW too... . LOL



My current 5th wheel has has a 1200 lb hitch weight, and it hardly even seems like it's on the back of my 2500 most of the time.



I have no doubt that DRW is much more stable in towing conditions, but I'm struggling with having so much truck for a daily commuter.

I can't really afford to keep my '99 at the same time. I need to get the equity out of it.



How are the stock clutches on the '06's? Can they take a bit of add-on power if I don't get stupid?



Thanks,



Shawn

 

[Mundgyver]

The Dana 80 comes in the short bed also. But you have to have the 6 speed and the H. O. That is for the 2001. My truck has the exact same springs and overloads along with the sway bar that a 2001 3500's have except I only have single tire in the back. All I need to do to make mine a dually is to buy the hub adapter for duals.



Thats why I think you could upgrade your truck for allot less than buying a new one. .



For the 2001 year the way my truck came from the factory, I was rated at 20,000 lbs CGVW. A friend of mine bought his truck one day later and got the automatic and my truck was rated right at 4,000 lbs heavier GVW than his. He had the long bet but only the Dana-70. I have been to 23,000 lbs. I know, I know it is over



The Dana 80 in my truck is rated for 11,500 lbs carrying. Tires are the weak link but there are some 14 ply's out there that work.



If I ever rebuild my axle, when that time comes I will propably just upgrade it to a dually setup as I already have the supension in place.

 

[Balzac]

Shawn

As you can see from my sig. I have towed my 37' Everest (16000#) with my 95 2500. Airbags, heavier tires, shocks, 03 rear end (disks and 3:73 ratio) etc.

I have just purchased an 07 3500 SRW. Wouldn't have a DRW. I have put on Toyo heavier tires as I did on the 95, and an exhast brake is a must.



Jim

Very happy with the 07 (Auto, also would not have a Std. trans)

Jim

 

[SLightfoot]

Shawn

As you can see from my sig. I have towed my 37' Everest (16000#) with my 95 2500. Airbags, heavier tires, shocks, 03 rear end (disks and 3:73 ratio) etc.

I have just purchased an 07 3500 SRW. Wouldn't have a DRW. I have put on Toyo heavier tires as I did on the 95, and an exhast brake is a must.



Jim

Very happy with the 07 (Auto, also would not have a Std. trans)

Jim

Jim, are you actually in Balzac? I'm just SE of Calgary - not too far from you.

Thanks for the info. How does your 07 handle the Everest?



Thanks,



Shawn

 

[BarlowCummins]

Ok, I don't think that anyone will debate the fact the a dually will have more stability than a SRW truck. However, I have a SRW and I tow a 41 foot and a 33 foot gooseneck trailers every weekend and I feel completely save with my E rated tires and my srw truck. I really don't feel any sway or squashiness from the tires. Not to get off topic but a few times a year these trailers weigh around 30,000 lbs.



I would find 5. 9 in a new truck, the 6. 7 is very nice but it does have limited power adders right now. They both are very strong motors but the 5. 9 comes with 325 hp and the 6. 7 has 305 hp. So there is a power difference right of the bat. With the 5. 9 you can always add 200hp later for about $600 and you won't have to worry about an EGR and particulate filter. In my opinion I would go with a new 06 or 07 with the 5. 9 and a 6 spd.



Corey

 

[jmorse]

Slightfoot,



I'v just traded up from a '99 3500 C&C w/5. 9 , 5spd. , and 4:10 rear to an '07 3500 C&C w/ 6. 7 ,6spd. manual, 3:73 rear. I transfered the body over to the new truck from the old one , so the load is the same. I now have 1400 miles on the new rig and can tell you the 6. 7 does a better job, even w/ higher gears and bigger tires. I absolutely love it. Jim