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What size turbo housing is best?

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I am looking to get a new turbo housing. Which size is best? I have a 98' 12v 4x4 clubcab 2500 with 3. 54 and automatic. How much increase in hp can I expect? Is one with wastegate the way to go or get one without it? Please help.
 
John,

The only time you really want to change the turbo exhaust housing is when you have increased the fueling above stock and are getting high EGT's. Or if you are in the 350 HP range a non-wastegated 16cm2 will allow the engine to breath better.

If you put a larger turbo exhaust housing, or the next size larger turbocharger (HX-40) on a stock engine, you would be putting the stock one back on in a day. The truck would feel likes it has no power.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-05-2001). ]
 
HemiDart,
I had the stock fuel plate adjusted to 15% increase. I have a free flow exhaust and installed a horton fan clutch. I have increased the hp some. I want to install 230hp injectors soon. With this info, do you still recommend not going with a bigger turbo housing?
 
I would get a EGT guage before going to heavy with the the fuel. once you get a little you will want more. Im still running the stock 12 housing with a 250 HP plate. If you tow the EGT guage is a must.
steve

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95,2500,auto,410;2-WD
Gear Vender Overdrive
DTT-TC,VB
tst#5
 
Steve,

Are you happy with the 250hp plate? I do have an EGT/boost combo gauge installed. I have an automatic transmission. I want to get more power but dont want to blow my transmission apart; nor do I want to compensate fuel mileage. I have the stock plate moved 15%, put in a horton fan clutch, free flow exhaust, kn air filter. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do and still maintain the transmission and mpg?
 
John, sounds like we have nearly identical trucks. As my signiture shows, I have the 250 (#6 tst) plate installed... and love it. I was considering the 230 plate but was coersed into more power by EZ94 about 6 months or so back. I am glad I did go with more power. I had similar concerns as you about the transmission holding up. It shouldn't be a problem as you service your slush box, adjust the bands and change the fluid on a regular basis. I would also make sure your OD shift point is up there close to 50mph when applying power to save wear and tear on the transmission. If you have installed a 'mystery switch' or TC lock-up switch, don't turn it on and drop the hammer below 50mph or you just might hear some TC shudder. You don't want that. Better yet, don't apply it at all while accelerating.
Your mileage will vary depending on your need to feel the power of your bombed cummins. My mileage went down to 18. 5 but I had added a camper shell while testing the mileage, so it's a guess really. My advice is to check your transmission pan if you have 24,000 miles or more and do the service before you bomb. At least you will know all was well there before you start working it a little harder.

Good luck.

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98 qc, 12V, 4x4, slt laramie, 47re slushbox, 3:54 ls diff, 2YG pkg, Kelsey trailer brake control, dodge running boards, diamond plate bed rails, prime designs bug shields, silencer ring wind chime on porch, Raven cab-hi camper shell, psychotty air system, T/C lock-up switch, gutted cat, Walker muffler 22572, crome 5" tip from Kenworth stack, Isspro guages, A pillar 3 guage mount, TST #6 250/635.

Toys: 70' F250 4x4 highboy- 429cid 400+ hp on 35"BFG's(ranch truck) 64' MF 205 tractor 3cyl perkins diesel w/bucket
 
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