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What stall RPM for billet converter?

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Annoying Check Engine Light

Need to start an oil war/advice

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Looking at getting a billet converter from who ever I choose. But am looking for ideas on what is a good stall rpm for my rig?



Looking to run the Smarty Jr on possibly the high setting and towing a 10k trailer. Right now if I run on the 100hp setting I feel like all the power is going to no where and the motor just revs. 70hp is a nice for a factory converter to me. A performance valve body will be put in as well in the future.



Also if given the choice of a converter or a valve body which one first? Can't swing both at same due to $



I would assume that a single lock up would be better for my above plans?
 
With out being able to remove a lot of the TQ management 1600-1700 flash stall with a full brake at around 1900-2000 and efficiency in the 85-88% range should help a lot.



A single disk should do fine with what you want and actually spin up a bit faster without throwing a lot of fuel at it on the bottom end.
 
Looking at getting a billet converter from who ever I choose. But am looking for ideas on what is a good stall rpm for my rig?

Looking to run the Smarty Jr on possibly the high setting and towing a 10k trailer. Right now if I run on the 100hp setting I feel like all the power is going to no where and the motor just revs. 70hp is a nice for a factory converter to me. A performance valve body will be put in as well in the future.

Also if given the choice of a converter or a valve body which one first? Can't swing both at same due to $

I would assume that a single lock up would be better for my above plans?

The VB can be R&R'd with the trans in the vehicle so it costs a hell of a lot less all around so you might want to start there.
 
The only cost is parts, sorry I should have mentioned that. I can R&R what is needed, yet am learry of a shift kit install, vb no problem, TC and flex plate not a issue at all, familiar territory.
 
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