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What tests are valid for injector replacement?

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FCA or Injectors?

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AH, I am less sure than I should be. a lot of what I was worried about was how much higher her EGTS are than the '03, but several folks assure me this is normal for this year, as lame as that sounds.

Engine temps as trans starts overheating may have been around 205? would shaving degrees off of that with the Fleece Bypass cooler do much for transmission temps? Seems like it would best only a drop in the bucket.

Yes the EGT's will run quite a bit higher on the 05 than the 03, that's 100% normal. The 05 will run 1450° at times with stock tuning... don't do that if the power is turned up. It's all in how the stock programming gets the power and meets emissions.

The stock 190° thermostat cracks at 190°, but isn't fully open until 207°. Max allowable is 225°. With a big load it's not uncommon to see 215-217° pulling grades.

So I don't think the engine temps are what's driving the trans temps up, unless the engine is getting to 205° without any load... that would make me think the radiator isn't operating properly with elevated trans and engine temps.
 
EC temps at 205 are not even close to being high, up to 215 on hot day and loaded hard climb are normal on my trucks. The trans temps in those conditions rarely break 200 degrees IF the TC is locked.

If you are seeing high trans temps with TC locked it is slipping. Check your actual coolant temps but it doesn't sound like it is bad or the gauge on the dash would be really high.

EGT's with an 05 will be a lot higher than an 03 with stock tuning. Adding an Edge will make them worse as they run EGT hot. Remove that Edge in its entirely except for monitoring and see what changes.

That is all once the you are up to speed. If the truck is a dog until you get rpms up from a dead stop or slow traffic speeds that is likely aTC problem and could very well be contributory to your temp problem. Like I said if you stab the throttle from a dead stop and it is in 1st gear rpms should flash to over 2100 rpms with a stock TC, if it doesn't TC is not working correctly. Stand on the throttle and the brakes at the same time, it should sit at about 2100 rpms and go no where. If it doesn't TC is TU.
 
So back to needing a head gasket, the test that has allegedly condemned it is that it made 12 psi of coolant pressure, racing around at only 110 degrees of coolant temperature.

Is this a fair test? Todd and others have expressed that failed head gaskets are pretty rare.

What else can I test/ monitor to verify or deny that it may need a head gasket?

I've been meaning to send off an oil sample, but for now, there is no appearance of cross contamination. I assume that the alleged pressure would be coming from the motor, and that the oil would be more likely to contaminate the the coolant, than the reverse, or am I thinking about it backwards?

Thanks
 
If you actually have a head gasket TU it will show in an oil analysis. You probably need to get one done ASAP and see what they find.

From personal experience, you have to work at it to blow a 5.9 HG on a CR, they are pretty darn solid. It takes shower head injectors, big turbos and\or outright thrashing them to hurt an HG on a CR.
 
Thanks Cerb. As much as I wanted to support TC and buy a turbo there, I couldn't lose another weekend without it. We picked one up locally on Friday and my son, Riley had them swapped out in just a few hours. Went with a light upgrade, the ATS Aurora 3000.

The truck spools up way faster, and just generally runs better.

We'll see what oil analysis says and keep an eye on temps.

He drove it to the mountains last night, so hopefully it proves reliable.

Thanks,
Dave
 
The 3000 a nice turbo, I hope it fixes the lag. Its NON-WG , IMO shorten its life, You just don't need all the exhaust heat being process for boost, its possible to create more than 40PSI (fuel correctly) May cause HG failure so watch out on Factory Bolts.
 
Thanks Todd. The boost fooler that it comes with must override the Edge display, as it shows 25 lbs of boost both as max, as well as too consistently for it to be a real reading.

Is it worth adding something to read real PSI of boost? What would I do if I knew it was regularly making closer to 40 PSI? back out more often? (that's no fun!)

Does it lack a a WG just to make it cheaper to build, or is there a good reason not to have one?
 
Thanks Todd. Can I still use the edge display, if I buy a new probe, or is that now tied to the truck'c brain?

Maybe just add a random analog gauge?
 
Easiest thing is to add a mechanical boost gauge.

If you want to use the Edge monitor you would have to install tuning that allows for more boost, such as a Smarty Jr or S-06, and then remove the boost fooler.

Personally I would try to find a used Smarty Jr, set it on SW1 and then pull the boost fooler.
 
Thanks AH. I just spoke to an Edge tech, who said their module would plug and play. It comes with its own sending unit, or pressure tap, than it would be configured in the dash screen as another gauge, leaving the fooler to still read boost at the present location, or just hide that one.

What benefits might come with the Smarty jr you Suggest? Below is the part here suggesting.
They also offer a turbo timer that looks a lot simpler (3 wires to find) than some to the others that have a lot more wires needed tapped into.


EAS PRESSURE SENSOR 0-100 psig 1/8in NPT - 98607
 
A Smarty Jr would provide a small bump in power, reduce EGT's, and add a little efficiency to the motor.
 
Any of the Edge tunes we tried smoked too much for me.

Does the smarty tune different parameters, or maybe it's just smarter at doing the same thing?

Todd, the edge thing I referred to would just place another digital box on the existing screen to read its own sensor, instead of the boost fooler reading that it now gets, however it gets that.
 
Any of the Edge tunes we tried smoked too much for me.

Does the smarty tune different parameters, or maybe it's just smarter at doing the same thing?

Edge runs hot and smokey.

A SJR can smoke too, but it's a pretty clean tuner.

Aside from custom tuning, UDC Pro on a MM3 or Smarty Touch, the SJR will be hard to beat.
 
My son called me from the mountains yesterday saying: "dad, the head gasket just blew". Coolant was pouring out the middle of the block. He was an hour away and I went to tow it home on a flat bed trailer.

I topped it off with distilled water to drive it on to the trailer, and saw the water pouring right out behind the water pump. What a relief! Easy and cheap fix. I sued to carry a spare, but never replaced it after doing one roadside in the 03 years ago.

Spares for both trucks will be SOP again. Do you guys like the Gates version? Any reason to upgrade? The Mopar one was $300, vs $39 for Gates, or 50 for the one At Carquest/ Advance.

I do still worry about the head gasket. What tests can I do aside from the tech telling me it made 12 PSI of pressure in the coolant, before being warned up. Is that enough to go on? I have no idea what PSI luke warm coolant should be under, or what else might cause that, assuming it isn't normal.

If I knew it was on its way out, id sure like to fix it preemptively.

In addiction to the aurora 3000 turbo, he somehow talked me into a 5" turbo back MBRP. I don't love how loud it is, but is sure runs cooler and stronger. Much harder to keep you foot out of it, which is not ideal for the youngster!

Thanks
 
Thanks Ozy, his point was that it should not make much PSI at all prior to being warmer, and that 12psi @ 110 degrees F indicated a problem.
 
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