Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What the heck is the problem now........

[Pigpen]

New problem now..... I have noticed in the past 2 months that the truck as begun to start a little harder than normal (turn the key, WTS light stays on longer and the engine turns over slower) I had a problem with the starter, replaced that, did not help much, took the truck to a shop they said the batteries were fully charged and the ALT was putting out low voltage, replaced that, did not work. So, I figured it was cold out and I did not recall how it acted last winter..... no big deal. So, today, same thing. I had to move the truck about a hundred yards, shut it down. Went out about an hour later, even harder to start, moved it about another 100 yards. Shut it down. Went out again about a half hour later, did not start because the batteries were dead. A buddy of mine brought over 2 900 CCA's batteries and put those in, it started a little better, but not much.

Now, I have noticed that when this thing first starts up in the cold, the ALT gauge really fluctuates and the heaters really draw the amperage. I really don't recall having this problem last year, in fact, I am almost positive this did not happen last year.



Anyone have any ideas? Are the heaters or heat or whatever going bad? That seems to be the only thing that I think of that would draw that much amperage. Once it is warmed up it is ok.



HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Thanks



Jake

 

[ACoyle]

Brushes in the starter motor?

 

[JApol]

I don't know about 2nd gen but the 3rd gen manual says that extended run time may be required to maintain optimum battery charge. You might not be running the engine long enough for the batteries to regain the charge that they have used operating the starter and the heater grids

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I'm betting that the grid heaters are working like normal but that your battery cables could be suspect. I know I have a cracked terminal on one of my batteries and it gives me fits sometimes and cranks a little slower(I keep forgetting to have a new one made up, I need to do that soon). I would look at each end of each cable and check the cleanliness and check for cracks and a smooth tight fit.



I would also bet your alternator wasn't bad, usually they either work or don't and the voltage output is controlled by the PCM

 

[Pigpen]

well, i will check the wiring. I am afraid that I spent 218 dollars for nothing because nothing changed. I guess I could switch out the starter again and/or have it tested, could be bad, but I will go through all the wires first.



So, concesus is the heaters are not bad or drawing too much amperage? I am going to see if I can test it anyway with the voltmeter. I will let you all know.



Thanks for the replies



Jake

 

[EricBu12]

jake,



We here in the cold climate (Salt Lake City) need better batteries than the regular autozone junk... Even the 900cca is about half of what I have...



2 , 1700 A Odessey dry cel batteries. They are like a hybrid of a regular battery and a deep cycle. It is almost powerfull enough to run in the winter with 1 battery so 2 is great. If you want even more powerful batteries, they have a 2100 A... .



These batteries since they are like a deep cycle, are able to take a deep discharge and come back up and the service life is like 8 years... . mine are 2 years old so far and are doing great.



I got them at Mr. Bob's dist.....



Could'nt find his web site but here is one that sells them and a pic of them



http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700t.htm



And here's the 2150



http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2150.htm

.

.

.

.

 

[jtwcummins]

You need to load test your batteries. It doesn't take a totally bad batt to cause this problem. Make sure all + and - batt connections are clean and making good contact at both ends. a couple of tenths of a volt drop can cause problems at several hundred amps

 

[Pigpen]

I load tested all four batteries, they are fine. Ok, NOW, this dang gum thing, i left the truck running for an hour to charge up the batteries. I go out TWO hours later and they are DEAD. I am so irritated with this thing I am thinking about selling it!!!!!



I am going to take it to a diesel shop this week and have them look at it. I am lost. I checked all connections, air intake heater, fuel heater, relays, everything i can think of, NOTHING.



Any help would be nice, thanks!!!!



Jake

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I would start checking the continuity of the battery to ground with the cables disconnected and look for grounds in the positive cables etc. Check and see what the amp draw is when the truck is off, sounds like you got power going somewhere.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I load tested all four batteries, they are fine. Ok, NOW, this dang gum thing, i left the truck running for an hour to charge up the batteries. I go out TWO hours later and they are DEAD. I am so irritated with this thing I am thinking about selling it!!!!!



I am going to take it to a diesel shop this week and have them look at it. I am lost. I checked all connections, air intake heater, fuel heater, relays, everything i can think of, NOTHING.



Any help would be nice, thanks!!!!



Jake

If it was cold while you were letting the batteries charge the heaters are pulling more amps than the alternator can replace, you're just running the batteries down. The heaters will cut off when the inlet air is about 60deg. F. They also cut off when you get to about 18 mph. If aIl you are driving is short trip, the batteries might be ok but it sounds like weak batteries. bg

 

[w gilmer]

i had aproblem with grid heaters a couple of years ago when i hit a bump in the road or drive several miles on awash board road to my favorite fishing hole. i would notice my volt meter was low . like about 10 volts. once i parked and after fishing for acouple of hours the batterier would not even buzz the key alarm. got a jump and every thing was fine. it took mounth of searching to locate problem. the grid heater relays are shock mounted in rubber and the bumps was causing contacts to arch and finally stick. then the batteries were low or dead. i noticed power cable to relays from the batteries was melting. i then disconnecter cable till winter and after reconnecting i have not noticed any further problems last two years. truck cranks fine at -35f. this is something else you can check. good luck. walt

 

[jtwcummins]

Since you have an electrical problem you can't assume the batt are being fully charge. You could have a 'parasitic' load. Current drain with everything off should be about 50 milliamps for ECM and clock/radio etc. To check this use an ammeter or get a taillight bulb and socket, this bulb should draw about 1 amp. Dissconnect both + leads from the batteries. Put the test light between the + batt terminal and the cable, this is in series. The light shouldn't even glow. If it does there is a drain that needs to be eliminated. With the light connected remove fuses one at a time. I have seen everything from radios to glove box lights to shorts in fuse/relay holders cause a bad drain on batteries.



If that checks out check the voltage drop between the batt terminal and cable while ign in run and start, a couple of tenths of a volt can keep engine from starting.

 

[EricBu12]

I use the Gid heater saver that turns off the grid heaters when the coolant is at 70 degrees... ... . center top pic on the website... ...



http://psdieselproducts.com/