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Hi guys, I'm not sure what to do next, I have to get my sig. setup but here is a list of what I have.

1989 CTD

ZF-5spd

SBC Con-O

Pod's

PDR Fuel pin

Pump Afc Lever Partially Ground

full fuel screw all the way in.

starwheel bottomed

3200 GSK

HX-40/16

straight 4" pipe's split into two 5" tips

Home Made intake with K&N

Home Made Nos system with . 040 Jet



I want to break 400RWHP Right now I dynoed 332RWHP with out the NOS. One thing I havent touched is pump Timing. Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Brenden
 
Bernhard said:
Hi guys, I'm not sure what to do next, I have to get my sig. setup but here is a list of what I have.

1989 CTD

ZF-5spd

SBC Con-O

Pod's

PDR Fuel pin

Pump Afc Lever Partially Ground

full fuel screw all the way in.

starwheel bottomed

3200 GSK

HX-40/16

straight 4" pipe's split into two 5" tips

Home Made intake with K&N

Home Made Nos system with . 040 Jet



I want to break 400RWHP Right now I dynoed 332RWHP with out the NOS. One thing I havent touched is pump Timing. Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Brenden



Well I see this is your second post welcome to the TDR. Are you trying to break 400hp on diesel only or with the help of NOS. It also looks like your off to a good start. If you are trying to do it on diesel only here are some suggestions/questions. Is you HX40 a full HX40 or a hybrid??? If it is a hybrid it might be a little tough to get to 400hp. I made 420hp with Piers's HX40/16 as a single so it can be done. One idea is to ditch the POD's and get some better sticks. You will have to have some custom ones made.



Timing does play a part to get HP. Depending on where it is now you could probably get some more HP out of your pickup if you bump it up some. I will let someone else recommend how much you should raise it.



By the way the numbers in my sig were done with a custom 14mm injection pump. It went South on me so I am back to a stock pump. I just dynoed the other day and made 418hp with a pretty weak injection pump.



There are allot of great guys on here that know allot more than I do so I will let them take over.



Stomp
 
Thanks for the replys. I want to break 400RWHP on #2 only. It's a full HX-40/16 . I saw you have 370's how did you make them fit? New lines, or reworked bodies? I know there is more to this pump than what I have done, Someone said that there is 50RWHP worth of internal pump mod's. Where is it? :D





Thanks

Brenden



Dodgentwo what Stomp said ;)
 
With the 370's we changed the bodies to fit our injection lines. We also had to set the pop pressures to work with the VE pump. I ran them for a while before I had them honed out even more.



Not really sure about the internal mods. In my last stock pump I had the afc lever ground, but I left a stock arm in the one I have now. Other than that turn this screw and back that one off etc. etc. I have had all my pumps set up on a test stand to get the max out of them. That might have something to do with it. I am pretty sure that my pump guy doesnt do anything internally.



Stomp
 
Timing and an intercooler would give you 400rwhp. For big numbers on the dyno you want max timing. Take it all the way over til it touches the head. Then unplug the ksb wire on the pump. On non-intercooled pumps, with the ksb unhooked, it is always advanced.



I did 337hp on Dave Dunbar's dyno jet on a scorching hot day with mostly stock timing, afc lever, hx35-16. More timing, and hx40 would of been real close to 400 if not at 400.
 
Personally,,,,,,,,,,I'd sell it. Find yourself a hobby like golf or needle point. ;) Did yah ever try something like making windows from stained glass and lead?



Scott
 
Sorry Guys but I forgot to put on the list that I have a ford powerjoke intercooler with 3" in & out :) KSB is already undone, I thought If I hooked it to 12V I could get about 5* advance :confused: Didn't know that they are different from intercooled to non. I haven't been on here long but I have been reading here for awhile. Scott I know you like to tinker on these pumps, So how about some suggestions? I don't think I will take up anything else at the moment :p



Thanks

Brenden
 
Next time you go back in the pump to grind off the rest of the afc lever, you might consider trying out a modified governor spring. Either a 3800 or 4200rpm spring trimmed to stock spring length or taking a couple clips off of your old stock gov spring. This will raise your fuel governed rpm. How do you have this VE supplied with fuel? Stock lift pump, electric, or piston lift? If stock, its time to consider a higher flow replacement.



What kind of boost and pyro readings are you seeing?
 
See above :)



RPM's make power too you know. When you git that governor spring in and the 60# valve springs call me about some more pump stuff like reindexing the throttle shaft and mess'n with pump pressures.



Cooler/denser air will also net mo power. And perhaps a ported head/custom intake etc.



GL
 
Bill, I have a stock Lift pump with an electric pusher pump. As far as boost and EGT's go I can hit about 45 PSI but I have it set to 38 PSI as per PDR's recomendation. I normally don't have any EGT problems driving around or towing. I can peg the 1500* Ispro gauge if I do a full throttle run from a standing start. How do you like that 3800GS? Any problems with it? One thing I do want in the near future is an exhaust brake and 60# valve springs.



Thanks

Brenden
 
Get 60# valve springs, 3800 or 4200 spring, timing, piston lift pump, and 14mm head and rotor from KTA. Then you'll easily hit 400. Also if your runnin that nitrous I would get arp studs, o-ring and port the head along with a marine head gasket form piers. Good Luck! and let us know what your next mods are and what you dyno. Also have you raced it at the track with or without nitrous?
 
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Hey Rock, If I do all of that I want 500RWHP :D I really want 400RWHP on #2 before I get one of those 14mm head and rotor's. Then I will Dial in the nitrous :-laf I didn't get to To the track yet the day before I was able to make it I got the flu. How about you? I see you got that spring, any new track times? Keep them coming guys!



Thanks

Brenden
 
14. 65, but that's before spring, watermeth, slicks, and head work. I will get a new time on the 1st of january. I don't know if you'll get 400 without nitrous or 14mm. What you should do right away is timing.
 
So you should be well into the 13's now that you have more air, RPM, and traction. Right now the only estimates I have is from my G-tech With a 4H launch with the N2o I ran a 13. 59 @ 106. 1 and a 5. 02sec. 0-60 but who knows how accurate that is. So what do you guys think can I get 400RWHP with what I have plus Timing? Will it really be that big of a difference?





Thanks

Brenden
 
Yes, you'll have 400 rwhp. Remember. You don't just want HP you also want longevity. Some throw caution to the wind and go for HP but I'd personally rather drive the truck as opposed to tearing into it time after time.



Plan carefully and you'll be better off and have a fatter wallet too.



-S
 
Yeah, I am hoping to be in the 13's. G-techs are usually very accurate. When are you gonna race at the track with the nitrous? I want to know what that thing runs.
 
Not sure when I can make it to the track yet. I am Dying to see what this thing runs on the spray, On the street I can't really test it to well unless I am in 4H 1st,2nd,&3rd all have traction issues :-laf when are you going to the track? It would be nice to hook up and tell some smoke stories :cool: Back to the timing thing, I think not bumping my timing has saved my HG to this point. I want to put in studs and o-ring the head but I was going to hold off until it went. Also how much timing is too much timing for a working truck? Thanks guys for all the suggestions! Keep them coming!



Thanks

Brenden





By the way I will have some new dyno numbers in a couple of weeks. With and without the spray :D
 
Well, I'm not at your performance range, but at 1. 5 turns on full fuel, no I/c etc, Slushbox transmission,, I found that timing advange about between 1/16"-1/8" Helped a lot as far as I noticed less "Hazing" and lower boost at cruise. Meaning that maybe the extra fuel I was pushing was getting a chance to burn more fully before it was expelled out the exhaust valve. a HG isn't a big deal, just replace the head alltogether with marine HG, and orings from pdr and be done with it, okokok girdle the block and get those fancy dancey headbolts as well!! hehe

but anyway just do a modest advancement and find a more natural, gasser like acceleration at higher rpms. just my . 02. The Pastor told me at the latest fist gen day to advance timing, from 213hp the the RW. it helped a lot, but now all I'm thinking about is switching to an nv4500 Tee Hee!

:--)
 
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