What to do while I'm fixing my return and t-stat housings

[sparks57]

Ok. I need to replace the seals in my return and thermostat housings.



While they are being fixed, the alternator, belt, and bottom hose of the radiator will be off.



Is there anything I should look at while the radiator is empty and things are opened up in that area?



Would I be able to flush the radiator?



I'm just trying to kill as many birds with one stone as I can.

 

[sparks57]

BTW: I'm going to start at 1:30 mountain time, so if you have any ideas... just throw 'em out so I can read them before I'm done!

 

[bgilbert]

Chris, with the coolant out, if any of hoses are old or havent been changed in a long time -2yrs~- I would buy top and bottom radiator hose, new hose clamps. All rubber, lets see ya got short piece of hose near your return, and at top going to the metal heater lines, then ya got two back there by the firewall goin to heater core. New t-stat. How bout that belt? Got a spare? If no, I would buy new, keep that old one for spare. This way you'll have all new belt and hoses and hose clamps. Buy ya a coolant flush kit, install the tee with garden hose connector in heater hose, then once you install bottom radiator hose you can flush the system. Actually you can do both, with bottom hose off, you can back flush, then put hose back on, flush again. Bill

 

[sparks57]

Sounds like the $$$ could really add up in this project.



I have to do this in the parking lot outside of the dorms, so I can't really get in and flush it if it requires a garden hose. Is there any way I can improvise?



I'll check on all the hoses and clamps, but it all kinda depends on what I can get for this afternoon. My hoses do look kinda crappy...



My belt is in good condition, but I'll get a new one.



Thanks a lot!

 

[bgilbert]

Oh Chris, then definately buy new hoses. No one wants to fool with draining antifreeze again. Big bad Napa should have all your hoses in stock, mine did. The belt could wait if the cash isnt there, I think I paid $29 for a belt w/ac at napa. Most definately while the coolant is out, spend the $$ on the hoses. [I have to do this in the parking lot outside of the dorms, so I can't really get in and flush it if it requires a garden hose. Is there any way I can improvise?]- Yes buy the flush/fill kit, install the garden hose tee NOW, inline with heater hose, and you can do the flush at your conveniance. Maybe I'll dig up a pic, if you want to know how it will look etc. . Bill

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

killer dowel pin?

 

[sparks57]

dead... fell out and I pulled it out with my oil drain plug...

 

[sparks57]

You're a lifesaver bgilbert!



Thanks man!

 

[bgilbert]

Chris, no problem. let us know how things turn out, and if mr Napa has all your hoses. Again dont go cheap on clamps, hoses might need a little trimming, dont cut off too much, after job is completed, watch/check your hoses for the next couple days, as they can leak, cause we're all too scared to overtighten those damn hose clamps. Bill

 

[sparks57]

OK, I have absolutely everything you recommended, new radiator hoses, heater hoses, pipe clamps, more coolant (the correct type) a flush t-adapter, and some more coolant.



Where should I put the t for the flush?



As for hoses, I got the upper and lower hoses, and 6' of the heater hose.



Is that enough?



Please explain a little more about the hoses besides the actuall heater hoses... I don't exactly what is what, and what I need to replace.



Thanks.

 

[bgilbert]

Chris, the flush tee goes inline with the heater hose closest to valve covers. 5/8"heater hose btw. For tee install, remove old heater hose closest to valve covers. Put up to new heater hose, cut new hose. Then slide clamps over hose, slide hose over tee. Tighten hose to tee. Then go back to truck, you'll have to trim a bit but its easy. Then as far as the smaller heater hoses/return hoses etc, bypass hose etc, whatever you want to call them, just remove old ones, and cut an exact match with new hose. Once this job is complete you'll have all new hoses, all new shiney hose clamps under the hood, sweet. 6' of 5/8" heater hose should be enough, never want to short change yourself. Heres a pic, on the left heater hose, I've added a 'ball water shutoff valve', in place of the junk oem vacuum actuated shutoff valve. This way in summer time, no hot coolant flowing in your heater core, if u have ac, you'll notice a big difference. That is if you oem valve doesnt work. I imagine you can find any type of h2o shutoff valve, I'd like to find one off of a Peterbuilt or other big truck/diesel, usually a neat compact valve. Anything else? Edit, sorry TDR wont let me post that pic, since ive posted it before on another post, look in RR's I think its there, or I'll try sending u a PM of the pic. Bill

Edit2: let me try my first link, it should be to the pic.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=6710&width=0

 

[sparks57]

Got it. Cool!



How do I know if my OEM valve is shot? I think my AC works ok, but I don't know what yours was like when your valve was shot.

 

[bgilbert]

Easy, [well i guess it also depends on how good/new/big your heater core is] your driving along at night, nice and cool out, no need for heat, or ac, windows up, heater ac fan shut off, cruising down the highway, engine at operating temp. I could actually feel the heat thru the vents from the heater core, 180* coolant flowing thru your heater core, will affect your AC performance. Summertime will make the cab a little warmer. Night and day diff in summer with AC on, and coolant flow to heater core shutoff. Bill

 

[Grey Wolf]

Did anyone mention a water pump check while he's at it ?

 

[sparks57]

Brand new on last year!