Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) what to do

[Jesselee]

hi guys im a newb here i just joined two days ago i couldnt wait ok here it is i have a 94 2500 and i just love it but i could use some more power without braking the bank ive look at the tst fuel plate upgrade is that any good seems like you get alot of hp for little money i have a mustang also and to get that kind of hp you have to spend 2000. 00 :{ any info and help you guys could give me would be great

 

[Joe G.]

One thing that is a must is an EGT gauge. The TST kit is the best HP bang for the buck. It's easy to install. Have fun.



If the KDP problem fix has not been done you will need to do that. E-mail me at -- email address removed -- for how to do it.

 

[MLee]

Just cheap up grades

WELCOME NEWBBBBBB!

Fill in your signature so we can see exactly what you have.

Look at my sig, this is what I done, GAGES first a must for up rate. A #5 plate, some like the #10 plate

Done a BHAF have moved the plate and cover forward, while inside where the fuel plate is, I moved (scewed) the retainers down one clik on the GSR springs(2) inside, will idle a little higher, a couple more hundered revs on top end. 4" exhaust. but now you have to watch the Clutch, or Auto for slipage. Have fun.

Marv.

 

[Jesselee]

well guys thanks for the info how can i tell if that was done or not. man i cant wait to let this motor loose Oo.

 

[tgrfan2]

I put a #6 plate in both my 95 & 98 trucks. There is no doubt a plate is the best bang for the buck. I think most recommend the #10 and GSK now. I was more concerned with towing power and the #6 is real strong after lock up. In fact my wife thought I had "fixed" the transmission to get a passing gear. She is the one that loves to smoke the PSD's that always seem to want to check out the old 12V's. I also put a switch on the lockup circuit per TST to control lockup in the 95 because the computer in it is dead. This keeps it from locking up too soon.

I have over 90K on the 95's stock transmission since the plate and pulled a 9K TT with it a good deal. Before the plate the 95 would barely break 80mph and 65mph with theTT. With the plate I pulled the TT to 84 before running out of nerve and rpm.

The gauges are good, but I have not had an EGT problem with the #6 in the stock position. My first gauge would be a transmission temo gauge if I were doing them one at a time.

 

[tp0d]

Jesselee: if you need any tech help, give me a PM... I`m located in brookline and have a shop in mt washington. Everything that has been said above is a good place to start. I`d recommend gauges and a BHAF, personally... that can be done under the 200$ mark, and the bhaf makes a difference



damn, and I just shipped out the NE KDP jig... .



-jerry

 

[rrausch]

Is your Automatic transmission stock? If so, you're limited to a TST #6 or weaker plate. Anything stronger and you will fry the clutches, especially the TC Clutch. I ran a TST #6 in my '95 for 107,000 miles before I got a Performance Trans. When the time comes for an automatic rebuild DON'T get a stock rebuild. You will only waste a lot of good money. Come back on the board and ask about Performance transmission's. There are several excellent performance trans builders for these trucks.

 

[jjordan1]

What is this plate you are talking about?I have a 2001,w\ a 50 hp Diablo Power puck. Thruck really pulls my 29` fifth wheel. Is this plate pretty safe for a stock truck. Thank You

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a 2001 has a 24v engine... computer controlled... the 94-98. 4 12v engines use a mechanical pump with a cam plate that dictates the fueling curve.



if I had a 160 pump (94-95) I'd just take the plate out.



Forrest

 

[mechanic]

I put a #6 plate in both my 95 & 98 trucks. There is no doubt a plate is the best bang for the buck. I think most recommend the #10 and GSK now. I was more concerned with towing power and the #6 is real strong after lock up. In fact my wife thought I had "fixed" the transmission to get a passing gear. She is the one that loves to smoke the PSD's that always seem to want to check out the old 12V's. I also put a switch on the lockup circuit per TST to control lockup in the 95 because the computer in it is dead. This keeps it from locking up too soon.

I have over 90K on the 95's stock transmission since the plate and pulled a 9K TT with it a good deal. Before the plate the 95 would barely break 80mph and 65mph with theTT. With the plate I pulled the TT to 84 before running out of nerve and rpm.

The gauges are good, but I have not had an EGT problem with the #6 in the stock position. My first gauge would be a transmission temo gauge if I were doing them one at a time.

I have a 94, and I would like to know what effect the plate had on the full load and no-load fuel millage? I now get 19 local and 22 h/w, no load and 16. 5 h/w with 5K#s trailer load. However I have a hard time pulling anything over 5K#s. My 31' '70 model Airstream is a bit more then it likes to pull in hill country. I am told that it weighs in at around 7K#s. I also have found it strange that the oil is still clear with 5000 miles on it, which I assume is an indication that it is lean. Thanks.

I see that you are off line, so you can email me at -- email address removed -- I am not sure how the posts work, I will check tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[tgrfan2]

With my 97 31' FKS TT, I got 14 before plate and 12. 5 after plate. I think this is because I picked up the speed from 60-65 to 70-75mph. The empty mileage did not change at all. I get 20 mpg in mixed driving and still got 20 on a 3K trip cruising at 80+mph. The 98 got 12 stock withTT and now with the 13K fiver gets 11. 5 cruising at 70-75mph. Empty stock it got 19-20 in mixed driving with or without plate. Both are auto with 3. 54 gears. Best on both on a trip running 60-65 on secondary roads was 22-23 when stock.

 

[Mile High Smoker]

Welcome Aboard

I have been a member for a short time and wanted to say that becoming a member of the TDR is the smartest thing that any CTD owner could do.



I am working on Phase II of my bombing plan beginning this weekend. Phase II = New South Bend Clutch, Seal replacement, plate adjustment full forward, and some suspension work. See Signature for Phase I Mods. You will be smiling from ear to ear if you do something similar.



However I want to give a couple of suggestion on things to look for along the way:



1) Adjust the intake and exhaust valves



2) Look for holes or fractures in the turbo boost line. The early Gen 2s have a hard piped boost line that has a tendency to rub on the exhaust manifold. Mine was completely severed and was repaired using flexible tubing.



3) Tab the dowel pin and advance the timing at the same time. Use a drop of blue locktight on the housing cover bolts. These bolts have a loosening problem due to expansion differences in materials used in construction of the block, cover, and bolts.



4) Punch out the CAT if you go with a larger exhaust (4"). I had to keep the CAT shell because of emission testing requirements in Denver, CO. The regs say that has to be present... but nothing says that it has to work.



5) Look for a local mechanic who understands the your overall goal. I usually try to find a local TDR member for this. I think that you will find that you'll get more Bombing for your $$.



I know, a little long winded but I am extremely happy and only $2500 down without busting a knuckle.



Here's to wishing for a new Hybrid 35/40 w/ 14cm for Christmas.



Oh and don’t let the old lady know about the money saved, she might want to spend it on her horse… but that is another story.

 

[MLee]

Think that she would fix up the horse so it could "smoke". HA-HA

haven fun

Marv.