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What to look for in a trailer?

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Wiring- Towing-Fuses ?

Removing center console

Well I priced out a trailer, how I want it and I'm looking at $3750 after tax and paperwork. It would look like this one, only no toolbox in the front or rack.



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Stock Trailer is $2795. (18ft, 10k)

$600 for drive over fenders and widen the deck.

$80 for 4 more D rings.

$150 for a spare tire.



After taxes, doc fees, etc... $3748. 50



I dunno at this point.
 
Been calling around.



Something I didn't think of is that if I don't pay sales tax when I buy the trailer, I have to pay it when I register the trailer. So not such the deal I thought by going to Oregon to buy a trailer.



18' 10k trailer by C&B here in ID is $2695. Add $135 for tax, $140 for a spare tire, $50 for title/doc fee, $35. 50 to register... $3010. 50



18' 10k trailer by Big Bubba in OR is $2695. Add $135 for tax, $35. 50 for registration... $2865. 50.



Now the Big Bubba comes with bias ply tires, where the C&B has radial tires. What are the pros/cons to that?
 
Well I might want to add a few comments seeing as I own a CB Trailer.



Model

Equpt168ta



English = 16 foot trailer with beaver tail, and folding ramps. I don't have the rear jack stands... wish I did, and I don't have a spare tire holder... Wish I did too. oh and I have the black one. http://www.cbtrailers.com/brochure-bp-equipment-trailer.pdf



I haul on it a John Deer CT 332 skid steer loader.

English = Heavy tractor about 10K worth

http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/construction/deere_const/compact_track_loaders/ct332_features.html



Anyways I have over 12K miles on the trailer and it weighs in over 13K lbs but just under the 14K limit of the trailer. The hitch is adjustable, nice feature, and you could change it if you wanted to. but I like what it came with. Loading and unloading is easy and the ramps are nice and strong enough to not bend or turn into pretzels, the tractor I load on it only has about 1/2 inch clearance between the fenders so I should have really gotten a deck over "no fenders" and I need more space in the future so I should have gotten a gooseneck "Larger capacity in weight and space" too but that’s a different topic.



Issues I have had



#1

When I got the trailer I loaded it up, and headed out for a trip, about a month latter I started to have tire issues, basically the factory installed load range D tire instead of the load Range E that should have been on from day 1. I have already replaced all 4 tires seeing as they have all blown apart. but the factory is going to correct the issue with me. I haven't completed this yet as I have been out of town but have already been assured the correction when I get back.



#2



1 spring has broken; I replaced it on my own as I need the trailer ASAP. Not sure why it broke. Easy enough to replace, BFH and a few wrenches. That was at about the 6K mark in mileage. Was going really slow so no other damage, but I feel if it did brake at highway speeds things could be different.



#3



Because I don’t have the jack stands in the rear to support the trailer during load and unloading I have bent up the tail of the trailer where the manufacture has a bracket with the rear marker lights. I have sense replaced these light brackets with some heavy duty steel.





Overall truck and trailer + load is about 25K lbs. drives true and straight down the road and I don't even notice or look at the trailer unless I’m backing or turning a corner. The deck is holding up nice, lights and wiring seem to work unless I brake them myself "hehe" For hauling a car or truck or what ever assuming it fits I would think this would be a great trailer. But for my needs I really need a different trailer. just for space and weight needs. I haven’t' looked at the brakes or bearings yet but I don't for see any issues. one thing I might add is any trailer with electric brakes you are supposed to adjust the brakes every 3K miles unless they have self adjusting brakes. Not hard to adjust but I really notice when they are in need of adjusting.



If you have any other Q let me know



David Ashley
 
Bias ply or radial. Is one better than the other?



For a new set of 4, they are both about $300, so price is the same.
 
300 for 4 tires sounds way to cheap... . What load range ? what kind of trailer? If the price is the same I would buy Radial's over bias, dont' know of any advantage to go with bias tires personally.
 
NATE a good trailer guy that i know of up here in idaho is MKTRAILERS they are up in carrey Id. about an hour and a half north east of mountain home dont have their # right handy but if your intrested in them pm me and ill get the # to ya they are realy good guys and my brother-in-law has went through them a few times and has liked their prices and customer service :cool:
 
If you don't mind traveling to Missouri, there is a little town in southeast missouri that has about 2 dozen trailer manufacturers. If you can dream it up about half a dozen of them can make it and the prices are right.



I have a 16' trailer with a 2' steel dove tail, the whole trailer tilts so the dove touches the ground. It has a 6K lb. capacity, wood floor, brakes on rear axle, and came with really sharp aluminum mags with General radials. Gave $1200 new 3 years ago. The trailer weighs about 1100 lbs. itself and tows better than any trailer it's size I have ever pulled.



Do a google search on "Sikeston Missouri Trailers" and all the manufacturers websites will be found.



Good Luck!
 
That's the price I got from Les Schwab. Not sure the load range. Either D or E. I told them the capacity of the trailer and they gave me a price.



MAshley said:
300 for 4 tires sounds way to cheap... . What load range ? what kind of trailer? If the price is the same I would buy Radial's over bias, dont' know of any advantage to go with bias tires personally.



I'd be willing to drive to get something, but I don't think I'll be able to take leave on short notice (short notice being less than 2 months notice), so the furthest I can go would be what I could do round trip in a weekend.
 
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Would one of my "standard" steel floor haulers do anything for you Nate?? Can E-Mail you a pic or 2 if you like, too darn big to post here!!!! #@$%!
 
Have anything with a wood floor? My max budject is $3000 to get this trailer on the road, so registration, spare tire, etc.
 
Nate said:
Have anything with a wood floor? My max budject is $3000 to get this trailer on the road, so registration, spare tire, etc.

I'll call my boys Monday and see if they will put a wood floor one together on a standard model. :cool: O. K. ?
 
I look at a car hauler as an long time investment. I HATE ramps! I have owned a sloan qwik load for about 11 years now and still get comments on "what a neat trailer that is". Just yesterday I hauled a 88 ford crown vic police cruiser home 140 miles. The car did not have a steering collum, we had to kick the tires to steer it. But with my added winch and the tilt bed feature iInearly loaded it by myself. The tilt bed feature cost more but no fudging aroung with ramps, plus easy to load LOW profile cars. OH by the way, it is ALL steel! here is a link http://www.kwikload.com/carhauler.htm
 
Just get a heavy enough trailer. I like lower profile tires and stiff sidewalls to help control sway and 18 wheeler blasts. Mark
 
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