What to watch for in 03-04's

[SRakers]

I am moving up from a 99 (with a cracked 53, but thats another story ). I was wondering if there are any major things I should look for. I haven't been following the 3rd generation forum so if you could bring me up to speed, I would appreciate it. I just don't want to find another problem like the 53 block Thanks

 

[klenger]

If you are buying an auto, the 48RE did not come out till mid 2003. Other than that, I am not aware of any significant issues with any of them. The Cummins 600 came out in 2004. 5. Some prefer the pre-600 (no CAT), and others prefer the additional power of the 600.

 

[BSchulte]

Been happy with mine so far. However, there is some things to be aware of.

1. Seems that drivetrain vibration is an issue from 70-75mph.

2. The r48e has a funny shifting process going into O/D

3. The manual transmission is stronger than the auto.

Just to name a small few. Nothing really major, at least to most folks. Read up on the 3rd. Gen forums in both major catagories and you'll have all the info you need.

Good Luck!

 

[rbattelle]

Listen for knocking in the engine. This can be either an injector problem, or on early 2003 trucks there was a TSB for a clutch knocking noise. In the case of the injector, the problem can be fatal. In the case of the clutch, it's harmless but some find it annoying. The way to tell the difference is the clutch noise disappears when you depress the clutch. An injector knock won't.



Check the injector pump (CP-3) for leaks at the front seal. Some have reported some problem.



Check the lower passenger side radiator at the fan clutch electrical connector. Be sure it's not wearing a hole in the radiator. If the connector is rubbing, you should be able to identify a shiny spot between the shroud and the radiator without having to remove the shroud.



Check the filter minder. If it has numbers on it, it's the old style and is not correctly calibrated. It will read 35% restriction even with a new filter.



Listen carefully for any rear end howl. It may indicate a rear end problem, if it's a loud howl.



Check the edges of all the tires for cupping and uneven wear that could indicate bad ball joints.



Check the steering gear for any leakage. Same for the power steering pump.



If it's an automatic, there was a problem early with the 48re that required a new anti-drainback valve. Trucks without the valve would drain the fluid from the torque convertor after sitting for a couple days. As a result, the vehicle would not move for a minute or so after being put into gear while the front pump refilled the convertor. Hard to check, unless you can have the truck sit for awhile.



Check the vent nipples atop the fuel tank. There are 2 of them: one at the front and one at the back. On LWB trucks they sit in depressions in the tank. SWB trucks they are actually on small raised areas on the tank. They are supposed to be plugged for the diesels (we think), but some trucks have them open and bad things can get into them.



Be sure you hear the lift pump kick on when you turn the key on. It should run for 2 seconds. Bump the starter (without starting the engine), and the pump should come on for 25 seconds. Make sure it makes a pleasant "whirring" sound.



Check for leaks at the valve cover.



Check for leaking coolant at the allen-head plugs on the exhaust side of the engine.



That's all I can think of for now...



-Ryan

 

[DocDetonancour]

Nothing but good to say about my 04. Doc

 

[TCluff]

ball joints, u-joints, power steering pump, tie rods and ends, lift pump, front axle, two front drivelines, two clutches, 6 broken wheel studs, all in 50,000 miles arent dodge trucks great

 

[JHardwick]

ball joints, u-joints, power steering pump, tie rods and ends, lift pump, front axle, two front drivelines, two clutches, 6 broken wheel studs, all in 50,000 miles arent dodge trucks great

I use my truck, and have had u-joint issues, but you sound abusive

 

[steveinaz]

ball joints, u-joints, power steering pump, tie rods and ends, lift pump, front axle, two front drivelines, two clutches, 6 broken wheel studs, all in 50,000 miles arent dodge trucks great

you probably drive the haul roads at the mine with that thing, then try to drive to Kingman at 90 mph. That road will beat you to death in a one ton.

SteveinAZ

 

[Fireman]

I think Ryan summed it up pretty well, but don't be afraid, few have all of the listed problems. Overall they are good trucks. I THINK the only trucks that were having u-joint problems were the ones with 2 piece drive shafts (like mine). In two and a half years the only problems I've had is the u-joint/drive shaft angle thing(addressed by a TSB), and contaminated fuel from the fuel tank vent( fixed by a 50 cent piece of 1/4" fuel line). Still love this truck and have no desire to go back to a 2G.



Good luck,

Fireman

 

[Kiohio]

Not only the 2 piece ones. Just got mine back the other day. Just over 40k Miles had the front and rear universals replaced on the rear driveshaft. Truck always shuddered on acceleration with a load on. Figured it was driveline angle, since the new joints/driveshaft was installed NO Shudder.



KO

 

[Walcott]

I just had my transfer pump(lift pump) go out at 86,500. Cost 345. 00It wasn't to hard to change.

All is well for now.

 

[PHerder]

Has anyone had the lift/transfer pump on 2003/04 leak,(appears to leak at the joints in

the pump

 

[rbattelle]

I haven't, but can easily imagine it leaking where it interfaces with the canister.

Have you been running biodiesel?

-Ryan

 

[Duc]

replaced the following in my 03 front u joints in the front axle 2 times both front wheel bearings 2 lift pumps 1 steering gear box one power steering pump line 2 rear u joints 1 auto trans injecters 1 pcm 1 ignition switch all in 146,000 miles

 

[SWithrow]

Below are things I have had replaced on my 03,

• Ball Joints
• Lift pump
• Injectors
• CP3
• UJoints
  Tie Rod ends
• Steering box

Ignition switch/connector due to using the tilt wheel all the time
Clearance lights leaked, replaced with udate version from Chrysler

I have close to 200k on this truck and have zero complaints, most items are wear items and are expected to go bad. If I could find another 03 I would buy it.

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

I've got 128,000 on my truck, and it's served me tremendously well. Since I bought it new, the items replaced were:



1. alternator bracket (warranty, replaced with updated model))

2. p/s hose (warranty, replaced with updated model)

3. front diff pinion seal (warranty)

4. x-fer case rear seal (warranty)

5. front driveshaft u-joints (warranty)

6. power steering reservoir seal (warranty)



Approx 1/3 of my miles have been towing my 5th wheel toyhauler, and it's never let me down. Granted, I'm anal about servicing/upkeep (greasing the front hubs for example), but I feel the truck's basic quality was high in the first place. I hope to convert it into a dually sometime, to be able to handle a larger 5th wheel, so I doubt I'll sell/trade it in anytime in the near future.



Steve

 

[rscurtis]

Here are a few more things to watch for- good fuel economy and oil that stays clean.

 

[bcbender]

Here are a few more things to watch for- good fuel economy and oil that stays clean.

Amen brother... I've had my issues on my 04, far less than my friends 05. I'm sitting at 112k, only ball joints, and ujoints thus far, but I dont have a fuel box (yet)

 

[Prairie Dog]

I took a chance at buying the first year of a redesign but it turns out I (arguable) got the best year ever.

 

[SpeedBeef]

Here are a few more things to watch for- good fuel economy and oil that stays clean.

I'm new to Cummins diesels, my truck is an 06 QCSB 4x4. What is considered good fuel economy? I see all sorts of claims (all over the map). I'm getting 11-12 around town with a very light foot. Truck runs fine, fresh oil change with 5W-40 Rotella synthetic and Mopar filter. Truck has 81K on the clock. As far as the oil staying clean, how long?