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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What Torque Convertor do you recommend?

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Okay, I have a different thread running on the VP and injectors. I believe that to be sorted out to my satisfaction now.

Now that the motor is running strong again, it is very apparent that the TC has a lot of slip and is not giving me good in town performance. Huge rpm drop when the TC locks up at 48 mph at 2200 rpm, drops down to about 1500 if I recall correctly.

I would like to upgrade the TC and am wondering what route to take so that I achieve the most bang for my $bux. Flush I am not, but I will spend if need be to make it reliable.

I am aware of the ATS TripleLock unit and the DTT and that both have controllers to make the best use of the lockup features.

I am looking for advice on which one of these (or other brand) that would probably be best for my situation.

To briefly review, I am not a horse power freak, and only occassionally pull trailers (8,000#-11,000#) two or three times a year on vacation trips.

As seen in my signature, I have the Van Aakin module and a factory Dodge Hi-Performance ECM. I'm pleased with the combination as it delivers very smooth throttle performance and is adequate for my needs.

Next week my son is going to install the RV-275 injectors and that will be the last of the hop up power mods. He has already replaced the stock breather with a monster unit from an Izusu delivery box van (wonder if they have missed that yet? :-laf )

I'm all ears or is that eyes?? What should I be doing now to preserve the stock transmission?
 
You'll have to also get a better valvebody, at minimum. The better t/c will have better transfer of power. Then, you'll have clutch pack slippage, without higher line pressure.

Talk to Dave Goerend. He has single and triple disc converters. Pick his brain. Won't try to sell you something you don't need. My trans has been great. :D Over 30k happy miles. :cool:

Goerend Transmission Incorporated
 
I just did the Suncoast trany with their 3-disc converter. I used their 44D series conveter which has about 400-550 RPM lower stall if i can remember right. The lower stall make around town driving SO much better in my opinion. I got the 3-disc cuase i usually beat the snot out my vehicles and plan on some high HP numbers. Suncoast single disc is cheaper but can also stand up to good HP and Trq number too. Which ever company you go with they pretty much all have a converter controller.

I would just call each company and see which have the best deals, best costomer service, closet dealer, best reputation, and the best sales pitch.
 
I would just call each company and see which have the best deals, best costomer service, closet dealer, best reputation, and the best sales pitch.


:-laf Yeah, it's that sales pitch that made me grin :-laf

I had forgotten about the last two mentioned, Suncoast and Goerend. Will have to do more homework seems like. Good point on a TC w/o controller. I can see that Dodge made it slip on purpose to keep the clutch discs happy?


Those of you who have installed the upgraded TCs, did you notice any improvement in your in-town mpg that could be attributed to only the better TC??

It just kills me to catch a red light here in Phoenix. It takes the truck a full half mile (or did before the new pump) to up to 48 mph so the TC can lockup. That is just ruining my in-town mpg numbers. :eek:
 
Goerend Bros

I second Goerend Bros. Just came back from there shop intending to get

a transmission. But I told him what I was doin' and drove my truck and said,

you need tweaking not a transmission. So he did the valve body and sent me on my way.

I forgot to say I had already installed there Trple Disc Converter

with lifetime guarantee. :) He will talk to you as long as you want , just

tell what your gonna do and he'll build a valve body for you.

You won't believe the difference. :cool:

Don't forget he mystery switch if nobodies told you. Here's the link.



http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque Converter Lockup Switch.pdf



This will lock your converter up whenever but make sure you do a

search and some reading before you do it
 
I just did a full Suncoast, the transmission shifts like a rock and all Suncoast will say is "That's how it is supposed to shift". When it goes into lock-up and 4th the truck will literally jump, if there is a drink in the cupholder it will spill! Add to that I was treated very rudely by the owner when I called with a question, and the shipping charge was upped after the fact, should've gone ATS!
 
My personal choice would be a suncoast valvebody and dunrite converter. If everything is setup right, you'll like it. Just throwing in my 2 cents worth!
 
Well, read all the posts, and all the blurbs and some phone calls. Ended up ordering SunCoast 3-disc TC, the new DC-487 vavle body and their controller. Will post how it does after it gets installed. Shipping will be a while from Florida to my son's house in San diego. I get free installation;) as he is a diesel mechanic on the big rigs.

He just installed the VP44 for me last week. He says that restored lost power and cleared all the codes. Nice... :-laf
 
I have a Suncoast trans and love it. It shifts nice and solid. I also installed a TC lock up switch. When im showing off a little ill lock the TC in first and put the fuel to it and when it shifts to second it will break loose them 35" no problem. :-laf I have not had any problems with putting the power to the ground. I just did a run on the dyno at 530 HP and 1050 ft. lbs. and run the 1/8 mile @ 8. 444 85mph in 4X4.
 
you'll see there's a few transmission shops that will be recommended over and over. pick one of those. they should all be able set you up with what you want.



that aside, and assuming you're not doing your own work, pick the one who has an installer nearest your locale. that advice comes from well earned experience.



on my '99 i used a DTT single disk and a mild performance VB... . shifted too hard for me. switched to their livestock VB and boy was my truck and I a happy couple.



good luck, jeff
 
Just a quick follow up on my truck.

The SunCoast stuff arrived on Monday right on schedule and the install begins with a BBQ next Sunday with a friend of my son who is also a diesel mechanic partner in the same shop. They make a good team.

So far, only the VP44 has been installed which reportedly gave the old girl new found power and drivability again.

My boy also installed a new air filter similar to the BHAF but is OEM on a big rig. Same size hookups, it was a 5 minute job, and only cost $28 bux w/his discount. He reported to me that changing the air filter let the truck really get up and go. Biggest bang for the buck to get a little extra HP.

The gauges started to go on today and should be done by the weekend. About time, I bought them 3 years ago and they never got out of the box :(

A note on Geno's Garage here. In the intervening years since I purchased the gauges I managed to loose the wiring harnesses for the gauges! !#@$%

Well, I called them earlier today and Robin answered the phone. When I told her what I did, she got Barney on the phone and he said "No problem, we will get you a new set out tomorrow". I offered him my credit card to take care of it and he told "No, it's all taken care of. Forget about it. "

Hip hip hooray for Geno's customer service... ... ... ... .

Guess where I go for all my needs if they got it???
 
Pro-Torque converters

I have them in both my trucks. They have converters in the fastest cars in the country, And have been making converters for the trucks that tow those cars for a long time. Look them up before you buy anything else. ProTorque.com. Tell Joe you heard about him on TDR. Good people to work with.
 
I'm totally unfamiliar with ProTorque. I will read up on them, but for now, my hop up expenditures are done with.

I cannot afford to do anything that will overstress the OEM transmission, so I always have to keep in mind that it is not a hot-rod and I have no intentions of getting into the HP race.

I grew up in the AHRA environment and never did hot rod anything I owned in the past, so I know I won't get swallowed up in the "power race" with this truck. It has to be rock solid, totally reliable through my retirement, and ready to tow my 34' travel trailer when I want to travel a bit.
 
Just an update:

First a comment: When the transmission was pulled, there was metal dust found in the pan and the fluid was black instead of red. Not a good feeling. Hoping for the best and going ahead with the TC install.

The TC/valve body install went well along with a new filter of course.

The first crack out of the Install Box, the transmission shifted real hard per my boy's comments (he's in San Diego w/the truck). A thousand miles later though, it suddenly quit shifting- was locked in 3rd gear. He was in Las Vegas at the time that happened. I called Ernie w/SunCoast and asked him what to do about it. "Just drive it home & shift it manually, maybe the dust will clear out of the solenoid".

Well, the solenoid stayed stopped up.

PJ (my son) changed the solenoid and all is well again. Also, the transmission is shifting smoother now (just like Ernie said it would after a few miles). PJ is going to drive it and change the fluid/filter every 500-700 miles for a couple of times hoping to catch all the metal dust left over from the old TC. Sure hope it don't mess anything else up. That solenoid cost $130 bux. Ouch!

PJ saved the old one and is going to take it apart and try to clean it out later.

I had also ordered a 1-2 band shift kit. The upgraded band is thicker and rigid, unlike the oem band and PJ couldn't get it installed w/o taking the transmission apart. So, he just installed the upgraded sprag and levers from the kit.

Any one know how to change that 1-2 band w/o taking the transmission apart? I sure would like to replace the oem band.
 
it aint bout the purty paint

Wade over at NGM got me going after I burnt my stock problematic 48re that had been rebuilt 3 times by previous owner at dealerships. once including brand new overdrive unit. after wade got me going again with Complete HTS transmission for a real bargain I was very happy. customer supplied the ATS Converter/flexplate/pan. its got all HTS internally from VB, input, and such. I now race stoplight to stop light sometimes empty sometimes towing 6,000lbs-8000lbs, and regularly smoke unloaded powerjoke ferds even up steep grades. I been down in nasty mud holes on offroad recovery calls. I used to slip in OD/TTC locked at WOT at 70MPH unloaded, not anymore. I'm really happy with my ATS converter with stock stall (for mpg), HTS VB. reccomned the same.



Oh sorry to run on but the ats converter has billet face like most but ATS features twelve drilled and taps holes on the fron tof the converter and when combined with their flex plate that has 12 bolt holes. I had a banks converter but decided to sell and run ATS but it only had 6 mounting bolts.
 
Just an update:



First a comment: When the transmission was pulled, there was metal dust found in the pan and the fluid was black instead of red. Not a good feeling. Hoping for the best and going ahead with the TC install.



The TC/valve body install went well along with a new filter of course.



The first crack out of the Install Box, the transmission shifted real hard per my boy's comments (he's in San Diego w/the truck). A thousand miles later though, it suddenly quit shifting- was locked in 3rd gear. He was in Las Vegas at the time that happened. I called Ernie w/SunCoast and asked him what to do about it. "Just drive it home & shift it manually, maybe the dust will clear out of the solenoid".



Well, the solenoid stayed stopped up.



PJ (my son) changed the solenoid and all is well again. Also, the transmission is shifting smoother now (just like Ernie said it would after a few miles). PJ is going to drive it and change the fluid/filter every 500-700 miles for a couple of times hoping to catch all the metal dust left over from the old TC. Sure hope it don't mess anything else up. That solenoid cost $130 bux. Ouch!



PJ saved the old one and is going to take it apart and try to clean it out later.



I had also ordered a 1-2 band shift kit. The upgraded band is thicker and rigid, unlike the oem band and PJ couldn't get it installed w/o taking the transmission apart. So, he just installed the upgraded sprag and levers from the kit.



Any one know how to change that 1-2 band w/o taking the transmission apart? I sure would like to replace the oem band.



having tore apart my old stock trans I dont believe pulling the band is possible when the pan and VB are dropped. even if you get the oem band out when you put the new band in you'll have to open up the band so it fits around the clutch drum. when you open the band you risk cracking the friction material. this could lead to decreased filter and band life and increased clutch material in fluids regularly. I pulled my stock transmission out myself in my driveway in feburary 15 degrees out and strong winds so go figure chill factor. it wasnt too bad of a job by myself, no transmission jack, it took alot of ingenious ideas but got it out and apart to the point of being able to pull band without any special tools once so ever. people say you need a pump puller but i just took two vise grips on bolts in hole design for removing pump and a piece of rope between vise grips and used as slide hammer. 4. 5 hours to pull transmission out. 25 minutes to replace band. i ended up not being able to get all parts for complete performance rebuild so I gutted transmission and bolted back in truck (support back of motor so it wasnt being help up by turbo and exhuast) loaded on company rollback and sent to NGM Diesel.
 
Further update:
Well, got another high pressure code P1763 again and it locked in 3rd gear again. Drained fluid and some more metal dust was found in the pan and filter plugged solid, must have come out of the cooler lines- even though the guys had tried to clean all the lines before putting things back together. This is the 2nd time, changed the filter and cleaned the valve body again.

Ernie over at SunCoast told me that no amount of cleaning attempts would ever get all the metal dust out of the transmission cooler, that I would just have to put up with changing the filter and fluid until it finally cleans itself up.

Fluid was still pretty dark on the 2nd change but not as black as the stuff that was in it the first time. That change out was synthetic stuff which is a lot darker than normal ATF-3.

So, my boy, PJ opted to just put in ATF-3 which is bright red until all this stuff quits being a pain in the neck. We're going to install an oil filter in the transmission cooler discharge line to stop that stuff from being returned to the transmission. That should help a lot.

So for now, it shifts like a dream with the new 3 disc TC from SunCoast. The lockup controller has not been installed yet. Don't want that on until all the kinks are ironed out for good.
 
The shop that did mine replaces the coolers with the transmission, they tried flushing mine since I asked but it was gummed up pretty bad.
 
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