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What year to buy?

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Giving Thanks for Cummins

Two Batteries?

Ah, ok. That's cool.



Each generation designates a body style. When the body gets a significant overhaul, the truck line moves up to the next generation. I think 2010 MY will see the introduction of a new generation HD, and '09 will see a new generation half ton.



Typically, Dodge has upgraded (some wouldn't call it an upgrade... ) the engine halfway through the generation... .



'89 - '91 was without an intercooler. in '91. 5 - '93 there was a significant power boost, with higher compression, and an intercooler.



'94-'98 were all mechanical, recieving mild HP upgrades, in '98. 5 untill '02 the Cummins got a electronic injection pump, and more HP, later in the generation the H. O. and 6-speeds came out, along with higher compression, and better valve seats. The auto and 5-speed were still not being "upgraded".



In '03 of course is the 3rd gen, with a completely different injection system, and big advancements in Diesel technology being appplied allowing more power with nearly r slightly less MPG than previous, while runningquiter, and meeting stricter emissions. In '04. 5, the Cummins recived more HP, better valve seats (again), better piston cooling, further advanced ECM and injectors, but now, halfway through the 3rd generation we are seeing a upgraded powerplant, the 6. 7L Cummins, and at the same time, the 6-speed automatice. Both the 68RFE (2500/3500) and the Aisin (C&C/4500/5500), are rated for more HP than the manual 6-speed transmission.



The 6. 7L Cummins has an Emissions certificate that states it meets 2010 emissions, so, following the trend in the past, we should get a significantly more advanced motor in 2010, along with the new body style.





Merrick
 
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thanks mcummings. I know what year trucks have what i was just wondering if the first gen group is considered to be the 89-93 years or the 94-98 years? thanks



For purposes of TDR, Generation refers to the body style, and starts with the body style that the CTD was first introduced in.



"First Generation" 1971 thru 1993. Diesels introduced in 1989. (6BT5. 9 w/VE pump)



"Second Generation" 1994/1995 thru 2001/2002. Half tons introduced in body style in first year, and 3/4 and 1 T the second. 2G CTDs were from 95 to 98 (12V 6BTA) w/P7100 pump and 98. 5-2002 (24V ISB) w/VP pump



"Third Generation" 2002/2003 to 2008/2009 Same sequence as 2Gs (1/2 Ton first year, HDs the second) and all these CTDs are High Pressure Common Rail. ISBs. 2003-2004 had no Catalytic Converters. 2004 1/2 to 2007 5. 9s have Cats. 2007 1/2 is the 6. 7 w/Cat/EGR/Diesel Particulate Filter thingy.



"Fourth Gen" 2009/2010 to TBD: Twilight Zone material for all we know, but a 6. 7L in the HDs and hopefully the 5. 6L V8 in the 1500s.



Did I miss/mess up anything?
 
There are a lot of variables. If your looking for one that is easy to work on, a late model 12V 2nd gen (up to 98 1/2) is a great choice.



'97 was a great year. :D Very few problems with mine. Haven't had to do much other than routine maintanance. :D Trans was the most expensive thing to do.
 
What is the '53' block and how do you know which have it?

It was a specific model number that was cast into the engine block that was purported to have cracking issues. It was generally on the second generation trucks. I did not have this particular block on any of my trucks. If you do a search, there is a plethora of information on it as to its identification, model years fixes, etc... .
 
Want to know what you guess think is the best year of truck to buy i kinda want a dually with ext. cab or maybe a 4 door. And probally a manual trans because the autos sucks
The last 12 valve was 1998 was the first year for a quad cab. The injector pump on a 12 valve is bullet proof. The injector pump on the 24 valve has been a problem. I tow aprox. 5,000 Lbs. with my 12 valve and it never slows down on the hills. I plan to keep it.
 
The last 12 valve was 1998 was the first year for a quad cab. The injector pump on a 12 valve is bullet proof. The injector pump on the 24 valve has been a problem. I tow aprox. 5,000 Lbs. with my 12 valve and it never slows down on the hills. I plan to keep it.



Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the QC didn't come along until 98. 5 when they introduced the 24 Valve.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the QC didn't come along until 98. 5 when they introduced the 24 Valve.
I can see why you might think that. Mine is a 1998 12v Q-cab. It was deliverd to the dealer (Orlando Dodge) in Feb 98. I did not want burgendy or maroon truck so I did not buy it until June 98 when I realized if I wanted a 12v it was now or never. It was loaded and made the price too high for a work truck so it just sat there. I made an offer (saying to them if I did not buy it nobody would) and they accepted it. Now that I changed the steering box from a 4&1/4 turn to a 3 turn it is and will continue to be a pleasant truck to drive. I won't live long enough to wear out the engine even if I were much younger. One of the few times I did the right thing.
 
If you were just going to use it around the farm or local haul, the 1G trucks are good trucks. If you want to go any distance, the 1Gs will wear you out. 2/3Gs are much more comfortable. If you're going 2G, get a 1G engine w/12 valve P7100 pump, 95-98, IIRC.



A year ago, I would have said, "BAH! Whatever... " but after a few trips in my '95, I would say you're right... I've spent too long driving cars and my former conversion van... I'm sure things will improve after an alignment and crusie-control repair. As it sits now, this truck beats the crap out of me... :(
 
To each his own. My 98 12v does the job I need it to do. I was lucky to find it. It is the first Quad cab and the last 12v. Rides nice and handles nice after I removed the 4 and 1/4 turn steering box and replaced it with a 3 turn. What we should have is what we like the best.
 
Actually... . J. BURCHFIELD If i was mechanically inclined i would love to own a 12 valve with a p7100, twins and all the fixens... . ! 12valvers have such a deep tone , no electrical crap... . just rugged az heck... man i miss my 64' malibu 283 2barrel rochester,2spd powerglide,
 
True, but since the NV5600 is no longer in production, parts have gone sky high!



It's getting to the point to where it's just about cheaper to get an auto.



Merrick



You got that right. I had a 6 speed in my last one (NV 5600). I would not own one now. They can cost more than the auto. to have over hauled and they are very quirky. Good luck finding a local shop to over haul it (if they can find the parts). The 47RE can be built up to be very tough. I personally would rather have the auto. after having the 5600.



On another note... I was in a local dealer yesterday looking around. They had a 2000 model 3500 with rear discs? I thought they started that in 2001. But, apparently not. I got up underneath and looked at everything very closely with a flashlight. Everything was original. Nothing had ever been unbolted. It was an auto. and had a good block (non 53).



I'm actually in the hunt now for a 2001 or 2002 2wd. 3500 QC. These are the best in my opinion. We all have our opinion and this is a very "opinionative thread". I personally love the 12 valvers. But for what I use it for I would rather spend the money on a newer truck. If anything... Just for the brakes. The older brakes were horrible.



The VP44 and lift pump issues are not that big of a deal and very easlily overcome. People tend to blow it out of proportion.



. 02
 
I have a full brake kit from EGR and my truck stops just as good as my Dad's '05...



They aren't as great with the initial application, but as far as stopping power they are wayy, way up there. My trucks brakes did not fade nearly as fast as my dad's trucks brakes... Just my $. 02



Merrick
 
The shoe and drum brakes on the rear of my 98 leaves something to be desired. The conversion kits are expensive at least for me a retiree. They may be worth the money but my search for cheaper turned up nothing. As far as the Auto goes when I had 35 k the torque converter bit the dust so I had my local transmission shop (that I can trust) install a Sun Coast TC and have had zero problems since. Now at 111 K. Lots of towing so it was the way to go. I have painted myself into a corner as far as trading up by having installed all the upgrades I would loose. I believe my truck will outlast me and I like the truck. The only thing to find fault with is the lack of Disc on the rear. If you are not going to pull sleds or race the old 12v is the best, at least for me.
 
What Year to buy

I responded to this thead several months ago saying the 97 model was best. I still think that but an early 98 should be just as good and could have the quad cab. I don't understand the brake problems people are discussing. I just replaced the original brakes on my 97 at 138,000 miles. That is with a fair amount of towing and auto to boot. I admit that the new brakes do work better. I went with top quality parts all the way. Yes, disk all around would be better but where do you stop the upgrades---at the dealer for a new truck?
 
I responded to this thead several months ago saying the 97 model was best. I still think that but an early 98 should be just as good and could have the quad cab. I don't understand the brake problems people are discussing. I just replaced the original brakes on my 97 at 138,000 miles. That is with a fair amount of towing and auto to boot. I admit that the new brakes do work better. I went with top quality parts all the way. Yes, disk all around would be better but where do you stop the upgrades---at the dealer for a new truck?



You will begin to understand when you are trying to stop a 15,500 lb. camper or anything over about 9,000 lb. quickly. The difference is quite literally night and day. I am refering to a stock trucks stacked side by side. Someone should start a "best bang for buck" thread. :-laf That would be interesting!



I agree. You can upgrade anything. Espesically when it comes to these things.
 
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