What you don't want to find...

[steved]

#ad




#ad




#ad




#ad






Wondered for a while why my steps were soft... it looks like an old issue as the wood was just damp and not saturated. We sealed this up late last fall, and being encapsulated, probably took this long to dry to this point. Either that or the water tank connections are leaking at the wall.



I replaced the 2x4 and even added a full length 2x4 for additional support. Got it pulled apart today, and almost put back together by 6PM. Only have a few more pieces of trim to replace, but the main damage and parts are reinstalled. Required pulling the door out, which was a pain...



Before I even started this repair, I drilled 2 inch holes in the aluminum belly skin to examine the rest of the structure (the best I could)... the part that was bad was the only real bad spot.

 

[HBarlow]

Have you inspected all the roof seams, roof to side transition seams, and the door frame caulking? Water intrusion like you found usually starts up high somewhere.

 

[steved]

We sealed the roof and wall seams when we brought it home... all those seams appeared to be still factory sealed (and in good condition).



I really looked this one over well before we bought it because we got burnt on our previous slide-in.



The damage appears to be concentrated at that corner near the water tank connections.

 

[steved]

And it just dawned on me... it has to be the water tank because we cover the camper with a tarp (water proof)... so the only way for water to get inside the wall would be from the water tank.

 

[seafish]

I have also seen numerous trailers where the water HEATER has started to leak at a fitting and ruined the whole back half of the trailer before it was caught.

 

[steved]

One of my "inspection holes" was under the hot water heater for that reason...



The only thing I couldn't really check was some of the plumbing, but it pressurizes and holds fine (pump doesn't mysteriously cycle for any unknown reason). That only leaves the gray water lines, and I can see most of those.



I'm pretty sure I found all the damage, and since we sealed it, there should be no active leaks causing more (other than my open holes getting drowned in a storm right now... grrrrr...

 

[Grizzly]

Steved, for any wood framing you replace, consider Pressure Treated Pine (PTP). Also if you have to replace any flooring, use Pressure Treated plywood.



Pressure test all plumbing for leaks.

 

[HBarlow]

Remember, there are two separate fresh water sources that could leak. The fresh water tank and pump portion which you have checked and eliminated but also, the line that runs from an exterior fitting for city water supply to the remainder of the interior plumbing.

 

[steved]

The city water side never sees use... we only carry our water for these short trips. The next owner can worry about that!



I considered pressure treated lumber, but once I got rolling just used what I had on hand... the rest of the framing is still raw pine, not like a single 36 inch piece is going to cure leak damage elsewhere. It went so well, that I didn't want to take the time to run an hour for a piece of PTW... I actually figured this would take several days...



The repair wasn't fun. There is not much room to work because everything was built from the floor up. Ended up using metal tie plates to add extra strength between joints. Made my cut so I could run 4 inch screws into the existing frame work from below.



Overall, I feel the repair is as strong or stronger than new... and luckily there is another floor joise only about 10 inches further in. I forgot to take pictures of the repair... and obviously the finished product is completely hidden. The only way you would every know something was done outside is because I used stainless screws for all the trim. The only damage showing inside is under the seat with the water tank...

 

[SRath]

There is no good reason for Rv manufacturers to build such kleenex and spit rigs. I learned the hard way on my first few campers, before manufacturers cleaned up their act, NOT to even waste my time looking at corrugated aluminum campers.

They ALL leak and rot. They are built very heavy out of the cheapest non-treated wood available; often cracked and warped when installed, and held together with shingle staples.

Semi trailers are built to be as light as possible and to last for decades and 100's of thousands of miles of hard use. They should build them like that.

I looked far and wide for one-piece fiberglass roof and fiberglass-sided campers after those.

You have a very tough job ahead of you, steved. I can see no end to the rot on the remaining wood members. You will have a heckuva time finding a solid starting point for your repairs. I'm sorry that isn't what you wanted to hear, but I've been in your shoes.

I highly recommend finding a way to use some steel or aluminum to reinforce all that you can. Use "L" brackets and galvanized screws. Do the best you can then put the thing up for sale because it probably isn't the only rot present.

 

[HBarlow]

I'd call it good and pat myself on the back for a job well done. You probably don't have another leak and even if you do you may never discover it which is almost as good.

Take it out next weekend and celebrate.

 

[steved]

I was able to get into solid wood, only the 2x4 and the floor sheeting was bad. The repair is complete, turned out very well... better than I could have imagined. I had been dreading starting, because I was thinking it would turn into a never-ending rotten wood find. And again, we sealed every seam, every opening, every window... it should be water tight... ugly, but water tight.



And just to clarify, I'm not saying it can't leak, or there isn't any other rot; but I did give it an honest attempt to locate any leaks or rot...

 

[Blu-meanie]

Been there, done that

 

[Blu-meanie]

More repair.

 

[steved]

I looked far and wide for one-piece fiberglass roof and fiberglass-sided campers after those.

I'm just going to comment on the fiberglass thing... we looked at a 2004 5vr (a little over a year ago) when we were looking for a newer camper. It was the fiberglass laminated panels with fiberglass roof... it had a lot more rot than this 1989 Aljo we ended up buying. Seemed that water had gotten into the seams and started to de-laminate the panels, which are a lot harder to repair than aluminum skin.



There really is no perfect camper... the best thing you can do is to keep them covered as best you can when not in use.



Until I found, and repaired, this damage; I was going to look for an aluminum framed camper... less wood to rot.

 

[steved]

More repair.

Nice job... mine was obviously nowhere near that severe. I would guess if I had taken the skin off my slide-in, it would have looked similar to yours.





I like the fact that I was able to repair it... and let's just put something in perspective here (for those saying run away):



I purchased this camper for $1600 almost two years ago. I scrutinized this camper for several hours prior to purchase... looking for obvious signs of leaks (the previous camper I owned looked like it had rained inside).



I bought the fifth wheel hitch a the same time for another $400 and installed myself. Can't really count the hitch since it will be used on the next camper...



I purchased probably $50 worth of sealer, cleaned and resealed all the seams (based on the findings of my previous camper) to preserve my purchase... I also bought a large farm tarp to cover during periods of non-use.



I replaced all the wheel bearings just to be safe... it was unnecessary, but made me feel good. Add another $100. I used tires from my car to replace the dry-rotted ones... cost me a new set of tires on the car.



I have a day's time in disassembly, repair, and reassembly for this damage... which may/may not be everything. I have less than $75 in this repair, including three boxes of stainless steel screws at $10/box.



I will have around $300 in new vents (getting ones with fans), and exterior pieces (UV-damaged plastic pieces)... if I went cheap, I could skip most of this and spend only $40.



So for a grand total of right around $2525, I have a light 24-foot 5vr that is in good condition that I was able to pay cash for and then use the money I saved (over buying a newer $$$$$ camper) to vacation. I'm not knocking anyone, but its all about your perspective... we aren't full time RVers...

 

[Blu-meanie]

This project started when I noticed I could see outside while in bed. The more I took off, the worse it got. I stopped looking when I got to the back. I have a newer one now, our English Mastiff broke some of the cabinet doors trying to lay down, we needed a bigger trailer.

 

[AClayton]

I agree with you Steve. That is a very good 5th wheel for the money AND time you have invested. Plus,you did all the work yourself and know it was done right. Too many times a Dealer has screwed an RV owner.



Alan