Whats all involved in a lift besides the suspension?

[NPloysa]

Building air ride for my truck out of custom cut, fabbed arms and stuff, etc.



Besides the obvious air bags and control arms, panhard bar, what else is needed?



All I can think of is obviously the track bar and the steering arm, right? Thanks!



P. S. -It will be about stock height to 5 inches, adjustable on-the-fly

 

[JKloppe]

step ladder. lol

 

[NPloysa]

This air ride system I am looking at, the controls for the solenoids, is available with FOB type arming, so I can lower it to stock height, while I am walking to it, then raise it whenever I want, pretty cool

 

[Spooled-up]

You'll have to lower the front sway bar down with some blocks. I've seen it done with some rectangular tubing.



Not sure how high we can go with the stock brake lines. I saw a 6" lift on Trucks! the other day that was a 1500. He moved the brake line mount down one bolt hole and the stock line worked.



Shocks of course.



I have heard that if you have an auto, 5" is the max lift without causing problems with some trans part or driveshaft part. unless you make some modification. Sorry I can't be more specific.



Quite an ambitious project. Good luck. Be sure to post plenty of pics!



Edit:

Just noticed that you have a '99. The 5" lift max thing is for the 3rd gen. Sorry.

 

[BarryG]

Nick:

Spooled up brought up an important point. Driveline angle is critical after a certain point or u-joint bind is going to get spendy. Dont know what that point is though. Don't forget about the pitman arm. I know there are adjustable units out there didn't land rover have one on one of their models. I am curious to know how they deal with the adjustabilty (not the actual lift) but say you need to drop you pitman arm 3 inches or lengthen your control arms for the lift what happens with it when you are stock height? I barely understand (and that may be an overstatement)how it all works together much less modifying it.

 

[Spooled-up]

Adjustable ride height.

With the way our suspensions are set up, using panhard or track bars, you are stuck with one ride height where the axles will be centered under the vehicle. You can raise and lower your ride height when you're parked, but for everything to be centered and working near the middle of it's travel, you'll need to pick one height you want the truck to sit at when driving



Before you remove your axles, measure the pinion angle and write it down. When you get the lift complete, make sure to set it up as it was before. This could cause vibration if it gets changed after the lift.



I understand the desire to do a project like this yourself, but you could get exactly what you're building from

Kelderman and have all of the engineering and manufacturer support by buying his system.



How much lift are you thinking of?

 

[NPloysa]

I was thinking of doing a 4 inch but maybe only a 3. I know I could get a Kelderman but I want to customize it and can do it in sections as I want to, can get steel cheap and some for free, and my friend will weld for free or let me use his Mig for it.



Also, this won't be the same as a Kelderman as far as arms go. I will be putting the arms from the axle to the center of the truck. I have been talking to Big Bad Dodge and he has been helping me out. My setup will be similar to his but not quite as beefy as I do not sled pull.

 

[Turbo Thom]

So if you triangulate the top link you won't need the panhard bar. But then you will run into exhaust pipe problems. As you probably know, the 2 links forward, horizontal, the panhard bar will be used. As to the pinion angle, that had better be right. Not just for the vibration, but the seals won't like it either. Im building one for my truck too. Really neat. I install Kelderman for now.



. . Preston. .

 

[NPloysa]

So the pinion angle needs to stay where it is, but obviously the driveshaft angle will change pretty good with even a minor lift, relative to the ground. With one staying (pinion) and one changing (driveshaft) the imaginary "line" going from the transfer case, down the center of the shaft, down the center of the diff will be changed. Correct?

 

[Spooled-up]

Not sure I understand what you're asking, but what is important is that the angle between the driveshaft and the output shaft of the transfer case is the same as the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion coming out of the rear axle. These two angles should be the same. On the early lifts, they used to use an angled spacer thinking that it would ease the driveshaft angles. While it did this, it only changed the angle at the differential. The angle at the transfer case was now different than the other end of the shaft. This resulted in vibration and early failure of U joints.

 

[NPloysa]

You answered it Spooled. I was thinking the same thing but couldn't word it right, thanks.

 

[NPloysa]

So besides the pinion angle, does anyone else have any pointers?



Thanks