What's first?

[Dearslayer]

I have a 96 4x4 with 102,000 miles, 3. 55 gears, 5 speed. Really would like more power, the truck is completely stock, my question is, what's first? TST plate, new exhaust, no muffler, turbo? If i start all this will one thing lead to another, new tst plate, will i need turbo work? I know i will need the gauges, but I am not willing to keep on doing and working on the truck or should i just be satisfied with a fine truck now. Also have replaced front pads but i keep reading that calipers need to be rebuilt, truck does pull to the left when i stop, but not all the time. Information on
rebuilt calipers would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve Williams

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[cumminsgetme]

Steve
You might as well go the cheap route first and see if that gives you the extra power your looking for. There are several adjustments you can make on your pump without having to spend a dime. First off, I would slide the stock plate and afc housing all the way forward, along with turning the star wheel way up (I like lots of thick black smoke... if you don't then go lightly on the star wheel).

 

[radixr]

Joe Donnelly (our revered and respected 12v guru) advises against sliding the torque plate. It's better to spend less than $300 on a TST plate (#12 or #11). IMHO, you will be very pleased with a #11 plate. It's easy to install (except for removing the breakoff screw which you would have to do anyway to slide the plate). My mileage actually increased after the #11 plate went in.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT,Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, ATS 3-piece Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Valve Covers, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

 

[SlyBones]

Step 1. Gauges
Step 2. Make sure your truck is running well first.
Step 3. TST plate like mentioned above. You dont need all that other stuff unless you get into EGT troubles or catch BOMBitis.
Step 4. Is your clutch gonna like this?
Step 5. Read the recent posts on how loud and a few others. There is lots of stuff on exhausts. Determine what you can live with noise wise, and go for it. Sounds great.

Me, I just finished 1-3 and am working on 5. As for #4, Bill K. , YOUR NEXT.

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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 69K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD exhaust, 230/605 plate, pump tuned by Piers, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, RS9000's, Molded Side Steps w/ Ground Effects, Chrome Trim, Canopy, ProFlaps F&R, BedLiner, Aux. Lighting F&R, and tons more.

[This message has been edited by SlyBones (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[jolyman]

I have a few questions. I have a '96 4X4.

I live in the Denver area and we have to pass emissions tests each year.

How do the TST #11 or #12 plates effect the emissions???
How about the spring kits?
My truck H. P. is rated at 215 so will I get any benefit from the #12 kit---I don't want the clutch problems right now.

Also what are the "brand" preferences on guages--ISSPRO or Auto Meter?

I tow a 6000 lb. boat in the mountians.

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'96 2500 SLT Laramie, Teal & White, X-Cab, 4X4, 5 spd, 3. 54 LSD, LWB, Dee Zee Boards & Caps, Camper/Tow group with air bags & Elec. brake control, K&N, Jacobs E-Brake, and Prime Loc.
Another Dodge Ram Ham . . W0AJL

[This message has been edited by jolyman (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[Forrest]

Steve,

Here's my $. 02 worth:

1. Guages. When you start adding fuel, EGT builds up in the low rpm range with a heavy foot, even with the 1st TST plate, the #12 @ 230/605.

2. TST #11 plate. In your pump, it's 280/685 centered & 340hp all the way forward. It's got tons of adjustment. #ad
So much adjustment you'll run into the limits of your clutch. Regulate EGT with your right foot.

3. Get rid of the CAT & do 4" all the way out the back with a straight thru muffler.



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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, TST 380, HX40-16, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD 4200rpm Governor kit, McLeod, 4", CATless, straight out back, chrome turn down, ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Michelin 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One, Garmin.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

[C Schomer]

Jolyman, I haven't heard of anyone failing the test. The nice lady at MV registered mine as a gas engine - I'm not due until 2002. If you adjust the preboost smoke out with the AFC - there's no problem anyway. Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, AFC kit, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Straight Thru Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, 24CKFS Sunnybrook, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

[rhoads]

If the eng builder set it to where it is and you modify it, what do you think> I know which sid i will put my money. .
4" or 10 " exhaust wont change a thing except the bill's in your wallet. .
Now if i were selling the items i and they will tell you otherwise>>>>>>>>>.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Steve and Jolyman, it might be worth your time to go to the TDR homepage, select featured articles, read Air+Fuel=Power. I wrote it several years ago but it is still useful, imho.

The 12 helps midrange torque and power considerably. The 11 is stronger and adds more top end too, compared to the 12. The AFC spring helps you dial out smoke without losing too much responsiveness before the engine builds boost. I don't want to use too much bandwidth since these questions have been discussed numerous times in the past. Email me privately if you wish.

Joe
Guardian of Sickly the Ram
Pretty tired at only 609 hp