Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What's the best leveling kit out there?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RV275 injector with BOOST?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP tabbed?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I talked to a guy at KORE today. He told me their leveling kit won't work well on the pre-98 models due to the weight difference in the 12 and 24 valve engines. I didn't realize there was a significant weight difference between the two. Does anyone know what the difference in weight is? He said the spring rate is different. They no longer make the springs for the 12 valve trucks.



Coils will fit.

spring rate would be slightly off but I do not see any major differences.
 
i just installed a 2. 5 inch leveling kit on my 98 ram 2500 today from top gun customs on ebay for $70 bucks (metal not plastic). anyway i have 35x12. 5 r17 mud rovers on aftermarket wheels and no rub at all!!!
 
Interesting! Thuren called me today. He said he can build me a set of springs for $575 but he doesn't have any 2nd Gen available now. He suggested I try the springs from a Hemi Power Wagon. He said he had heard that the additional chassis weight coupled with the Hemi motor equal the weight of the 12-valve and will provide about 2 inches of lift. He also heard you can get them at a dealership real cheap. He thought he remembered around $100. Sounds too good to be true. He also thinks the 4. 5" backspace with a -12mm offset is going to cause some rubbing issues in the fender. Sound familiar JMcCoy?Is it the width or the height that causes the rub? It's moving back toward dithing the new wheels for something else with the proper backspace and offset. Research is exhausting when it's not your real job.
 
Have you looked at Lorenz yet?

I went with the leveling kit from LORENZ and opted for the 23% increase spring rate. I much prefer the way the truck handles and drives now. It was easy to do myself, although I did have some guidance. I am running 35-12. 50x17 on the stock 17-8 forged aluminum rims with no rubbing at full lock with the steering.



Andy
 
i bought them used. they are black simulated bead locks. i think they are 17x10 but im not sure of the backspacing. kinda weird i have a 05 2500 with the same leveling kit on it and when i put the same wheels/tires on it they do rub. on that truck i have 325 60 r18's on american racing wheels they dont hit anything even before i put the coil spacers in.
 
i bought them used. they are black simulated bead locks. i think they are 17x10 but im not sure of the backspacing. kinda weird i have a 05 2500 with the same leveling kit on it and when i put the same wheels/tires on it they do rub. on that truck i have 325 60 r18's on american racing wheels they dont hit anything even before i put the coil spacers in.



Do you have a picture of those wheels or whole truck?



-- email address removed --
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now I've done it. I found a set of Hankook 315/70-17s on Craig's list and bought them. The guy had put them on in January and I think the truck was getting repossessed becuase all he wanted was $500 and four tires that would hold air. They're like new.

They're HUGE! I set one against the truck last night. It closed the wheel well up a lot on the back. I may have to raise the whole dang truck to make it look right. I'll get the tires on the new Cepeks soon and installed to see the issues. Can I jack the frame up to simulate the front leveling kit?
s
 
DConrad, I appologize I took so long to get back. The rubbing issue sounds very familiar.

This is the information I pulled from the 4wheelparts website. They are awesome looking wheels at a reasonable price. The rubbing only takes place on the back side of the fender, at full lock, with the outside of the tire rubbing. I plan on cutting the fender out, so I temperarily just banged it back with a sledge hammer. Now it only rubs a little when I hit a hard bump at full lock. Longer control arms should also help. I have plenty of room in front of the tire. I have no rub from the inside of the wheel, indicating there may be room to change the back spacing a little and correct the problem. If you go too far, it will rub the inside, and the only fix would be spacers (not recommended). When I go to 37" tires, i'll cut the fenders out properly. I don't want to go too high. I just want ground clearence. It sounds like you've already got it figured, but I hope this helps some. Good luck.



Part Number: M/T879481

17x9, 8x6. 5 Bolt Pattern

BackSpace 4. 5 in.

Max Load= 3400lbs

Finish = Chrome

Hubcentric= No

Offset = -12 mm
 
Last edited:
End links are necessary when dealing with even a 2" lift. The stockers are prone to bending and eventually breaking at the bushing end. I've have seen stock trucks with bent end links.

JMcCoy, your tires are rubbing on the wheel wells because of the 4. 5" backspacing on the aftermarket wheels you're running. Change them to a 5. 25-6. 1" backspaced wheel and you should be good to go. The stock aluminum wheels have 6. 1" of backspacing.
 
I noticed some of you guys are comparing 2nd gen trucks to 3rd,the tire fitment is different. Also remember with our suspension design (both 2nd and 3rd gen) as the truck is lifted the tires move closer to the rear. A slightly longer arm will help this.

I have Carli 3rd gen Hemi springs on the front of my 94 and they work very well. The spring rate and height are spot on.

I also have a Kore kit for 2nd gens sitting in the Garage. Too heavy for me to ship,but a good deal for local pick up.
 
I had the Kore kit on for maybe about 3 years. It wasn't bad. I just knew the Carli would be better... ... ... . and it is
 
Greetings, What's the verdict on your new springs & shocks? I decided on KORE leveling kit & rear shocks to take out the sharp road shocks these highways supply latlely.



Wally
 
Keep in mind..

When you level the front end now the front axle is off center, it other words it kicks out 1" or more towards the pass side? (or is it drivers side) Hence the need from an adjustable length T-Bar. Also if you look close, you'll see the wheel is not centered in the wheel opening any more. It's back about a 1/2". I fixed this by using the upper & lower links below.



DTP02005-2 03-08 DODGE RAM 4x4 1/2" FOWARD ARM KIT
 
Greetings, I've ordered the KORE "Lift kit" of Variable rate Springs & Bilstein shocks. Based upon TDR discussions concerning frt end alignment potential issues, I called KORE for their assesment. Frank reports they've had thousands of these kits ordered for Dodges and have had no negative feedback re: install issues.



Frank reports Caster Blocks, aftermarket control arms, links, etc. are not called for on an OEM Ram truck, and that I should have no problems. Will let y'all know of my results in 2 weeks, if it's of any value to this forum.



WalterJ
 
I put the Hell bent steel levellers on gave about 2. 75" now it is time to track down some longer lower control arms, seems to ride pretty good, replaced all of the tie rod ends and everything else used a Rare Parts adjustable track bar which looks alot like the new track bars that you can get at NAPA? and replace the steering box and hope the ball joints hold out for a little while longer till I build up some coin to address that issue... ... .
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top