What's the best way to remove ball joints?

[Pattons]

Anyone have any experience removing ball joints? Any tricks or tips? Dealer says it's an 8 hour project, and that just for one side. Would those of you who have changed them agree?

 

[DBraunig]

8 hours per side is CRAP. book time is 3. 6 per side. trick is getting the hub and bearing out in one piece (need a puller and patience). once the hub/bearing is out there is a press for removal and installtion. you can hammer them in and out i guess but you risk damaging the new ball joints. I can put both sides in normally in 5-6 hours. if dealer wants 8 hours per side ask them to see the labor time guide they are using. you need to find another shop, that is way overpriced. make sure to clean the hub and bearing and the knuckle and put some anti-seize on the hub/bearing as it is reinstalled. it will come apart easier the next time... i you keep your truck there will be a next time



Dave

 

[2Gen3Gen]

When I had my 04 last year, I left my truck with the dealer at about 10am, got a call at 3pm and it was ready for pick up, along with the oil change I also was having done. It was also under warranty. I think they work faster on warranty repairs. Not sure where you live but if there is a Les Schwab Tire near you, I would trust them if your truck is out of warranty. They do all the alignment and tire work on my Corvette. As per your Dodge, My guess is 2 Hr. per side max. Ive replaced them on my collection of older Chevy trucks 67-72, and it is a total walk in the park! Just a suggestion.

Good luck, and FIND ANOTHER DEALER!

 

[rbattelle]

As Dave points out, removing the hub/bearing assembly is probably the hardest part (I have not done this job... I'm regurgitating what I've read on here). When it comes time for mine to be replaced I intend to have a set of new hub/bearing assemblies on-hand so that if I destroy them in the process of removal I'm covered.



www.quad4x4.com has nice kits, from what I hear.



-Ryan

 

[clydedugan]

Replacing ball-joints

I've done both sides, top and bottom on mine. I believe it was about 5 hours on the first side, and 4 on the second. Need a big bearing puller to get the hub out; I had a 4-foot pipe and my son, so around 700 lb-ft to get it to pull, but it did not damage the hub.



I got the new ball-joints at Auto-Zone, and they had a large C-clamp kit for installation. The kit is available for $100. 00 deposit, which they refund when it's returned. I had to make up some extensions for the kit, as the ones in it weren't long enough, which is why the first side took longer.



If a dealer service shop can't do it faster, using the right tools, they got problems!

 

[sag2]

Factory time is 1. 8 per side.

 

[daveshoe]

I split my bearings when I remove them for service. I then use a heavy plate of steel that is drilled in the same pattern as the four 12 point metric bolts that hold on the hub assy [from the rear] . My trick is that I thread in 4 14mm x 80mm grade 8 bolts from the FRONT. Another 1 1/4 hole drilled in the center of the plate uses the stub axle drive shaft as the pull point. [4WD]

Everythimg stays nicely centered during the pull and there is no heating or beating. When you re-assemble the bearing hubs,they are pressed in flush . A bearing press is nice to use ,but not essential.

I use this application to service the ''non-serviceable'' bearings,but it would work for your application if your truck is similar to mine--4WD with seperate brake rotors. --like the 02 4WD

 

[rbattelle]

I split my bearings when I remove them for service. I then use a heavy plate of steel that is drilled in the same pattern as the four 12 point metric bolts that hold on the hub assy [from the rear] . My trick is that I thread in 4 14mm x 80mm grade 8 bolts from the FRONT. Another 1 1/4 hole drilled in the center of the plate uses the stub axle drive shaft as the pull point. [4WD]

Everythimg stays nicely centered during the pull and there is no heating or beating. When you re-assemble the bearing hubs,they are pressed in flush . A bearing press is nice to use ,but not essential.

I use this application to service the ''non-serviceable'' bearings,but it would work for your application if your truck is similar to mine--4WD with seperate brake rotors. --like the 02 4WD

Got some pics of the process?



-Ryan

 

[Bandit2]

Hi guys, very interesting. A question, are you talking ONLY about 4wd or do you have the same problem with the 2wd??

 

[daveshoe]

rbatelle,I have no digital camera,but you live close to me. If you would like me to send you pictures,or show you my fairly simple hub puller,we will set something up. I would also be happy to send pictures of this proceedure if they could be scanned into digital and shared with the TDR. as far as what trucks this will work with,I do not know. I can only tell you what works with my year 2002 truck,a 3500 4WD. I live in southern Darke county, along State rte 49, which becomes Salem Ave in Dayton. As far as I knor, the point where the bearing assembly attaches to the carrier is the place that rusts on ,and when you need to change the ball joints,every truck will have this problem with difficult removal.

 

[GKainz]

I've had my hubs off on my 97 2500 4x4 twice - once for bearing replacement and once for ball joints. Instead of pulling the hub with a puller, I backed the four bolts out from inside the backing plate about 1/2 inch, and used an impact socket and 1/2" drive extension wedged against the axle housing; start the engine and carefully crank the steering wheel to apply pressure to the bolt thru the socket and extension. Pops the hub off slick and easy... found the process detailed somewhere on the net last year - can't find it right now, tho.