Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Wheel bearing hub assembly removal

[Cummins724]

I forget who sent me a pm asking how to remove the wheel bearing hub assembly without damage? I figured I'd take some pics today as I removed mine for brake/rotor change.



Here is a picture of the groove where I use a punch to knock the hub loose from the knuckle. I use a punch, the groove gives direct access to the back of the hub. I just smack the punch with a 2lb sledge & it usually breaks free pretty easily.



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If the hub doesn't break free, I hit the back of the bearing with a dull chisel. The back of the bearing is covered with antisieze in this pic. It sits directly behind the axle & easily accessible.





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Before installing the bearing back into the knuckle, I sand the knuckle & bearing rib with 80 grit to remove any rust, then coat with antisieze.





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[timo2le]

Wheel bearing removal

There is a special tool available to do this, but a Man at our local NAPA explained the easy way.



Loosen the 4 bolts retaining the bearing. I used a deep well socket, added a 3 in. extension. Start the truck, and turn the steering wheel until the extension binds against the steering knuckle. Turn the wheel a bit more and the hub should press out. If not, move the socket to another bolt and repeat. You can work your way around the 4 bolts and push off the bearing.



It worked great for me, after I used a puller to pull the rotor and hub APART, and the housing was still stuck in the knuckle. Don't do this, a new bearing is $300.



Good luck,



Tim

 

[Cummins724]

There is a special tool available to do this, but a Man at our local NAPA explained the easy way.



Loosen the 4 bolts retaining the bearing. I used a deep well socket, added a 3 in. extension. Start the truck, and turn the steering wheel until the extension binds against the steering knuckle. Turn the wheel a bit more and the hub should press out. If not, move the socket to another bolt and repeat. You can work your way around the 4 bolts and push off the bearing.



It worked great for me, after I used a puller to pull the rotor and hub APART, and the housing was still stuck in the knuckle. Don't do this, a new bearing is $300.



Good luck,



Tim

I was told to do it that way, but I was afraid of stripping the threads off the bolts. I've pulled bearings apart, repacked & reused before without issues.

 

[jeff98370]

Any secrets to replacing the axle seal?

I had some bad wheel bearings, so i took about the front assembly and replaced the bearings. After several more thousand miles, i noticed that the front axle seal on that side was starting to leak. I did not remember any particulars about this seal when i did the original job, so i thought it would be an easy fix to take it all back apart and replace the axle seal. Wrong again pinhead!!! The front axle seal sits all the whole on the inner part of the shaft where it leaves the pumkin housing. It looks like all the gears need to come out of the diff. Hope someone can tell me an easy way to replace the axle seal without pulling all the gears????

 

[Cummins724]

Front Axle Tech



front axle shaft seal installers



Here you go.

 

[timo2le]

In regards to my bearing, I will repack and reassemble for a spare or maybe use for trailer hubs. In my neighborhood we have quite few dodges (December Picture on the TDR calender) so the bearing will find a good home in a farm truck. That picture is One family's Dodge trucks. My truck is the only non-family truck in there. I was allowed since mine is a '98 QC 12v 5sp. My truck has 340K on it, so I thought it deserved a new bearing. The bearing wasn't dry, but there wasn't an abundance of grease remaining either. I think I might have a leaky seal also, which I bought at the same time as the u-joint, but that seal replacement looks like it will be a job for another time.