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wheel bearing?

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2015 Rams

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I have some excessive tire wear on my right front tire so I thought I would check and make sure that the ball joints were not bad (even though there is only 14,000 miles on it, who knows anymore) when I did, I put a bar under the tire and pried on it a little and thought I heard something, so I grabbed on the top and the bottom of the wheel and kind of rocked it back and forth and noticed that it has some movement to it. Not much but it shouldn't have any, so I checked the other side and it is the same way. I am assuming it is the wheel bearing and not the balljoints, I tried to have my wife do it so I could watch but she wasn't enough I guess. Has anyone else noticed this?
 
Wheel bearing should have a little play in them. If you jack up the truck and grab the top of the wheel, there should be a slight movement. Years before I knew better, (ha) I tightened them down on a trailer till there was no play and it took about 50 miles to burn up both bearings.
 
If you block it up and take the load off you will get play out the wheel. The BJ's drop out of the socket and the whole spindle assembly will move. You need to verify exactly where the play is but probably the BJ's.
 
Yes, with the way the stock BJ's are designed you will get some play unless they are loaded with the weight of the truck. The stock vertical play is .070-.080, there is no way to maintain zero play in an unloaded condition. You have to check where that play actually is, BJ's or bearings.

Crappy design that has been a headache from the start. The vertical play may not be out of spec but horizontal wear in the lower BJ and the stress placed on it will walk the ball out of center in the socket and cause tire wear.

Where is the tire wearing, inside or outside?
 
Yes, with the way the stock BJ's are designed you will get some play unless they are loaded with the weight of the truck. The stock vertical play is .070-.080, there is no way to maintain zero play in an unloaded condition. You have to check where that play actually is, BJ's or bearings.

Crappy design that has been a headache from the start. The vertical play may not be out of spec but horizontal wear in the lower BJ and the stress placed on it will walk the ball out of center in the socket and cause tire wear.

Where is the tire wearing, inside or outside?

The outer half of the right front tire is wearing way faster than the left tire, and I was told it is a camber problem. But I thought I would jack it up and just see if maybe a ballpoint was bad. The movement doesn't seem vertical though, because it moves when I put one hand on the top of the tire and one on the bottom and rock it back and forth but I don't know for sure. the thing is the other side has movement also (maybe not quite as bad) but it is wearing just fine, so I don't know what the deal is.
 
It is a camber problem but what is causing it can be several things. Ball joints worn, wheel bearing worn, something bent on the axle. An alignment check will tell if the camber is off while stationary and the weight on it. If so then something is bent or misaligned on the axle. If it is within tolerances staionary then it is either BJ's or wheel bearing causing the camber change when moving. The way the suspension is designed the thrust wants to shove the fornt of the tire inboard and the bottom of the tire the same way, any wear in bearings or BJ ends up with the outside of the tire wearing faster. Just have to find the problem.
 
It is a camber problem but what is causing it can be several things. Ball joints worn, wheel bearing worn, something bent on the axle. An alignment check will tell if the camber is off while stationary and the weight on it. If so then something is bent or misaligned on the axle. If it is within tolerances staionary then it is either BJ's or wheel bearing causing the camber change when moving. The way the suspension is designed the thrust wants to shove the fornt of the tire inboard and the bottom of the tire the same way, any wear in bearings or BJ ends up with the outside of the tire wearing faster. Just have to find the problem.

I assume I would need to have the alignment checked myself since the truck has 14,000 miles on it, is that correct? Now what if something is misaligned on the axle or something is bent, wouldn't warranty cover that though?
 
What is your warranty on the truck? I thought the new ones had a much better warranty, like 5 years and 100k? Is this the 14 or the 99 I guess should be the first question. I was assuming the 14 with that low of miles but better ask first. :)

Given it is the 14 I would say dealer is the first stop if you trust them. Some have alignment facilities, others don't. An aligmnet check out of your own pocket might be wise depending how much you trust the dealer.

If the 99 is the problem that is a totally different beast. Should have no play on the BJ's or bearings in it.
 
A Wheelbearing with play is dead and needs either to be serviced or replaced.

The play is set by the spindle nut torque. The standard procedure is to tighten it down till there's no play, then back it off to the next cotter pin hold which should leave a slight amount of slack. Very slight, nothing you'll notice when driving. Once the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing and race, there's no play but it has to be there when installed. You have to jack it up and then you can feel it. You need to purposely leave a very slight amount of movement to keep the bearing from burning up when it heats up which it will do. An over tight bearing is worst than an under tight bearing. The newer hubs come as a sealed unit so you can't repack them, you throw them away. If a bearing doesn't make noise, it's good. Not sure how the RAM is set up, probably one piece because the mfg is trying to make everything worm proof. (take the human factor out of it) I like the old style because you can repack them and if maintained, they'll last forever. The new one piece assemblies cannot be packed and you throw them away when the bearings go out.
 
The play is set by the spindle nut torque. The standard procedure is to tighten it down till there's no play, then back it off to the next cotter pin hold which should leave a slight amount of slack. Very slight, nothing you'll notice when driving. Once the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing and race, there's no play but it has to be there when installed. You have to jack it up and then you can feel it. You need to purposely leave a very slight amount of movement to keep the bearing from burning up when it heats up which it will do. An over tight bearing is worst than an under tight bearing. The newer hubs come as a sealed unit so you can't repack them, you throw them away. If a bearing doesn't make noise, it's good. Not sure how the RAM is set up, probably one piece because the mfg is trying to make everything worm proof. (take the human factor out of it) I like the old style because you can repack them and if maintained, they'll last forever. The new one piece assemblies cannot be packed and you throw them away when the bearings go out.

I know on my 99 when I replaced the hub bearings on it there was no play at all in them
 
The spindle nut just anchors the axle into the hub, it doesn't control any play or anything else on a unit bearing hub. There is no adjustment on a unit bearing hub. The bearings and races are preset with lash whne pressed on to the hub shaft. The mounting cover just holds it centered and does no preloading. Once there is play in the unit bearings there is no way to take it out, they are done.
 
I agree and don't think there should be any play but am just wondering if it isn't the ballpoints moving like you said they might when unloaded due to the fact that both sides do it. My dad has a 14 2500, I think I may jack it up and see what it does.
 
I agree and don't think there should be any play but am just wondering if it isn't the ballpoints moving like you said they might when unloaded due to the fact that both sides do it. My dad has a 14 2500, I think I may jack it up and see what it does.

i jacked his up and it seems about the same, so assuming both our trucks don't have problems with wheel bearings or ball joints, I'm gonna say something else is wrong. I think I will try to get the alignment checked soon and see what happens.
 
Yes, get an alignment check so you know for sure what is going on. If you can document the BJ's are good and the alignment is still off Dodge owes you a new front axle. It is not unheard of they come from the factory misaligned on the C's. You have 2 choices, new axle or offset BJ to correct it.
 
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