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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Wheel Question

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I have a 94 2500 ctd when I first got it it had the steel chrome wheels on it,

I took them off and now have 16x8 eagle alloys on it. I'm planning on taking them of and trying to find a set of the stock 16x8 alloy wheels. what I'm wondering is will my orginal center caps and lug nuts work with the alloy wheels, If not does anyone know what lugs I'm going to need and also the part number of the center caps.
 
The factory alloys(years 2001-2002) will not fit the 94-00 trucks without machining the outside of rear brake drums to fit. Your center caps and lugs will work if you decide to go that route though. What are you going to do with the Eagle's?. PM me if your going to part with them... ... ..... Andy
 
Hammer said:
The factory alloys(years 2001-2002) will not fit the 94-00 trucks without...



Just a note for future reference: the alloys actually showed up on the 2500's model year 2000, along with a rear drum size change from 13 X 2. 5 to 12. 125 x 3. 5 (same size as 3500's).
 
I've got a '96 and I put on 2001 alloys a couple of months ago. I got mine with caps and lugs. The lugs are the same as you have now. The caps are different but yours will fit if you dont want to use the newer style. Your caps may stick out further because of the added thickness of the alloy wheels. As far as grinding down the rear drums, yes, you have to remove about 1/8" of material from the outside edge of the drum. I did it myself with a 7" hand grinder and it took about 20 minutes per drum. I put the truck in low or reverse, depending on which side I was working on, and just applied the grinder to it. In retrospect, I would find a machine shop that would do it for you on their brake lathe or some other piece of machinery. It was a pain and I ended up getting a metal splinter in my eye that cost me $150 to have removed. You could probably get them turned for $30 or maybe even less. I have a two wheel drive and the only issue I have had is on a sharp left turn the inside lip of the left front wheel just barely touches the lower shock absorber bolt head when I turn all the way to the stop. If I were you, I would try to find a set of wheels that come with the caps, I think the newer style caps look better. Just my $. 02. Good luck.
 
JimMccarty said:
..... and I ended up getting a metal splinter in my eye that cost me $150 to have removed.



Were you wearing safety glasses? If not, you ought to buy a pair. I use them religously and have been glad. I've had a few particles hit me in on the glasses doing different projects. Wearing safety glasses was bread into me by the military. :rolleyes:



Good to know about compatability years on the alloy wheels. Have thought about either the stock alloys or getting a set of MT Classic II's. I like the looks of the stock alloys. MT's are my second choice. Anyone know the load capacity for the stock rims? Both alloy and steel?
 
Dartman said:
Were you wearing safety glasses? If not, you ought to buy a pair. I use them religously and have been glad. I've had a few particles hit me in on the glasses doing different projects. Wearing safety glasses was bread into me by the military. :rolleyes:



Good to know about compatability years on the alloy wheels. Have thought about either the stock alloys or getting a set of MT Classic II's. I like the looks of the stock alloys. MT's are my second choice. Anyone know the load capacity for the stock rims? Both alloy and steel?

No, I wasn't wearing safety glasses. I have several pairs and should know better, but I thought nothing would happen. WRONG! Well, I'm learning, slowly. I also like the stock alloys, the replacement wheels usually have way too much offset. The load rating I believe is something like 3300 per wheel. They are forged like Alcoa wheels, I've heard. Jim
 
Can anyone else confirm that the stock alloy rims are fordged? Just got on Mt web site and found the Classic II's are cast. I love the look, but would rather have a forged rim. That might be the selling point for me on the stock alloys. Unless I find a set of forged like the MT's.
 
From the model year 2000 parts catalog:



Ram 1500 wheels

5FS04S4AAC WHEEL, Steel, 16x7, WDK

52057938AB WHEEL, Steel, WDB, 16x7, Chrome

5EK53PAKAC WHEEL, Aluminum, WND, 16x7, Cast Aluminum

5HC75PAKAA WHEEL, Aluminum, WD5, 16x7, Cast Aluminum

5GL88PAKAA WHEEL, Aluminum, WFV, 17x8, Cast Aluminum



Ram 2500 wheels

5GE66S4AAA WHEEL, Steel, WDV, 16x7. 5, Argent

52106367AA WHEEL, Aluminum, WDZ, 16x8, Forged Aluminum



Ram 3500 wheels

52113156AA WHEEL, Steel, WDW, 16x6, Argent







The model year 2000 slick sales brochure also refers to forged aluminum wheels as being packaged with SLT and SLT+ 2500 models. All of the 1500 aluminum wheels are described as cast in this same brochure.



The window sticker from my model year 2000 Ram 2500 shows:



"Wheels - 16 x 8. 0 Forged Aluminum"





They're probably forged!
 
Alloys wheels

Thomas said:
From the model year 2000 parts catalog:



Ram 1500 wheels

5FS04S4AAC WHEEL, Steel, 16x7, WDK

52057938AB WHEEL, Steel, WDB, 16x7, Chrome

5EK53PAKAC WHEEL, Aluminum, WND, 16x7, Cast Aluminum

5HC75PAKAA WHEEL, Aluminum, WD5, 16x7, Cast Aluminum

5GL88PAKAA WHEEL, Aluminum, WFV, 17x8, Cast Aluminum



Ram 2500 wheels

5GE66S4AAA WHEEL, Steel, WDV, 16x7. 5, Argent

52106367AA WHEEL, Aluminum, WDZ, 16x8, Forged Aluminum



Ram 3500 wheels

52113156AA WHEEL, Steel, WDW, 16x6, Argent







The model year 2000 slick sales brochure also refers to forged aluminum wheels as being packaged with SLT and SLT+ 2500 models. All of the 1500 aluminum wheels are described as cast in this same brochure.



The window sticker from my model year 2000 Ram 2500 shows:



"Wheels - 16 x 8. 0 Forged Aluminum"





They're probably forged!

There's your answer, Dartman. Go for it !
 
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