Wheel stud to wheel interference

[Archive]

While replacing the front brakes this past weekend, found the front Aluminum wheels hard to get off the hub. They seemed to be stuck on. Didn't think too much about it until I went to reinstall the wheels. They didn't want to torque down properly and inspection revealed the new studs extended through the hub slightly farther than the old ones did and were larger than the hole in the wheels. I had to relieve the holes on the back side of the wheels with a 3/4" countersink to get enough clearance to insure the wheel were setting flat against the hub. If not flat, torque will not stay where set and there is a chance of cracking a wheel.

Just wanted to throw this out for general information.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, new 40-20-40 bucket seats, 149K

 

[Archive]

I noticed the shank of the studs will stick out (less than 1/8") from the hub before it necks down to the threads. Never had a problem with this with the steel wheels, because they are dimpled out toward the lug nuts. I guess if you have aluminum wheels, it probably would not be a bad idea to either counterbore or countersink the back side to allow clearance for the stud shanks.

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, K&N, straight piped, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K and still going. 91 W-250 5 speed, 4. 10 Limited slip, 16cm2, 6" Skyjacker lift, RS9000, Dump bed, 18K original mi.