Wheels/K&N Filter

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I have 2 questions.
1) Have anyone had trouble with out of round wheels?
2) What do members think about Chrysler's document not recommending the use of a K&N air filter

 

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Seems cummins feels the same. Said possiblity to incorrectly clean the element could result in stuff going into the engine. Specifically when using compressed air or high pressure water, damage can result to the element which will allow "stuff". Now know cummins owns fleetguard, follow the money trail. I do not feel properly cleaned KN's should be included in this negative light. So it is like anything else, some folks can mess up a good dream (you know the saying).

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98. 5,24v,3/4 ton,2wd,lsd,5sp
blue box hp enhancement

 

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What "Chrysler document" are you referring to regarding the K&N air filter?

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'99 3500 Quad,SLT,white,4x2,AT,4. 10 posi

 

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I find it very odd that a "Chrysler document" would say this as they have the K&N available as a DC part through any dealership. I knoe I'd love to see this 'document' and so would a few dealerships.

The instructions that come with a K&N states NOT to use compressed air or heat to dry the filter. Let it air dry and do not OVER OIL. Cummins is just restating that from what I am reading here. They also want you to buy their filters.

SCOTT

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Lift it, flip it or...
RAMIT!

 

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I followed the book cleaning my K&N. Put it in at 20K, cleaned at 70K, tossed at 110K. It was never very dirty when I cleaned the first time but had 50K miles on it. It went another 40K before I had silicon levels go up dramtically with oil analysis I do. The filter look very clean at this time. All highway miles. Maybe the analysis is very sensitive, maybe I did not get a good seal around filter upon reinstallation, maybe dirt was in fact getting by. Based on my experiece, I think stock engines with boost levels in the low 20 psi or less have less to worry about. Turned up engines pull a lot more air through the filter. "Ever here your filter flutter in a stock truck" ... or... move the air box restriction gauge with a new stock filter.

Beyond this I would install the K&N and not touch it or the airbox until you see some movement in the restriction guage. I would then toss it and order a new one rather than reclean.

I drove all highway but 40K a year, I would proably get 2 years out of the orignal filter. Others that are needing cleaning every 20K might need to do something else.

If your running stock you have little to gain with a K&N, other than "Cool" turbo noise. It that is all you want remove the turbo inlet cone.

jjw
ND

 

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I have an intermittant bounce around 40-45mph. Not sure if it's the tires or rims. When I had the tires rotated and balanced, the grease monkey at Goodyear said the tires were out of round and he'd pro-rate them toward replacements. I decided to ride them out and maybe go for some Cragars and Dunlops when the time comes. Might splurge for some Edelbrock shocks too. I hear they really make a difference in the ride.
I pick up a K&N filter every time I go to Discount Auto Parts, look at it for a bit and put it back down. I have alot of faith in NASCAR, with the exception of Dale Earnhardt. They used to use oil bath filters until they determined that dust can build up in the filter oil and break away from the filter and find it's way to the combustion chamber. They determined this to be the reason for some lost motors. Now they're back to using paper filters. But the K&N is very tempting.

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Steve McDaniel
98 ClubCab 12v 5spd 4. 10
97 Stratus
92 Harley Fatboy

 

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"AMSOIL" has an oiled foam filter, reuseable after being washed, air dried, and reoiled. Its spec sheet indicates better filtration than K&N with slightly less air flow, that probably would only affect the Highest of the powered up Rams. ???

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others & AMSoilman.

 

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Being a mechanic for Cummins I've had mixed feelings over the K&N filter----but, not on the QUALITY of the filter. I have run into a lot of filters that have never been cleaned or serviced correctly; causing the engine to be "DUSTED". Others have mounted the "CONE" K&N filter directly on the turbo, causing water to hydrolock and blowing the head gasket; when going through 10" of water at +25 mph.
as for original filter, change the filter as per it's restriction. On a new filter the dirt it collects aids in the filtering; so over servicing can cause more not less problems. The restriction indicator will show the max. restriction reached, push and reset after filter change. The turbo has a wastegate to lessen turbo lag, and ensures that the turbo will provide enough boost with a nornal amount of restriction.

 

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CMECHANIC - Thanks for bringing a new level of expertise the powwow. On this air cleaner thing, maybe you have witnessed the debate regarding the flex connector between the fender and the airbox. Some folks think the flange is not supposed to fold into the airbox, which is how mine came. They suggest it was only intended to but up to, but not interlock with the filterbox. I propose that the connecter should interlock to provide a positive pressure in the airbox when at speed. Similiar to the ram air concept of the "60's. Seems to me that if this is not the case the flex connector is redundant and performs no helpful function. Also another fellow has decided that using a hole saw on the filter housing to create a swiss look will improve the engine breathing. I have to believe this works at idle when horsepower is meaningless, and will also defeat the process of while at speed, funneling air from behind the grill and packing it into the filter housing, creating as much positive pressure as possible (this is also what the turbo does) using the velocity of the truck to advantage. Don't worry about the fact that falling on either side of the fence will instantly alienate you with 50% of the TDR populous. JUST VALIDATE ME NOW! Actually my true satisfaction is realized via stirring this thought pot. Can you get me a discount on parts?


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98. 5,24v,3/4 ton,2wd,lsd,5sp
blue box hp enhancement

 

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as per giving dicounts on parts; why i have an account, and pay %10 over cost; my account is watched so i don't violate my employment contract---sorry not willing to risk my job.
I'm not going to second think why Dodge designed the intake system that way. But, the only reason to have that system it to collect the high pressure (ram air) at the front end. To already have spent the money on the piping, you would think they would correctly use it. Cutting the air box would allow preheated air from the engine/ rad. into the same system that your tring to cool with the charge air cooler; your tring to cool your supercharged air not heat it. Plus, you have more dust and dirt in the engine compartment,----best place to get the air is right at the front bumper/ grill (colder, cleaner air)
sorry for a short answer--heading to the movies

 

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An uninformed, biased against aftermarket hucksters, you're stupid to spend your money, stay stock opinion. I "think" DC designed the air intake tube to be separate from the box in case water or snow plugs the intake. This gives two air entry points.

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99'Stock Quad 4x4 AT LB 3. 54 18K Miles. Pull a 7000# TT over, around and thru the Cascades

 

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Thank you sir for the voice of reason. I believe we are appreciating parallel logic.
Tlippy where did you come from you trouble maker? I was having fun with CMech.
You e-mailed me once and I understand and appreciate your thinking process re: aftermarket stuff. My queries here are directed toward oem stuff i. e. , why wouldn't they connect the tube to the airbox?
Tlippy, you are a web pal, please know I take
great enjoyment from being a font of sillyness, i. e. , tongue firmly planted in my cheek. It is good to see you over here after some of the conversation resenting the requirements for using this site. Enough buttering you up! Cmechanic I was not serious when requesting your ability to acquire a discount on parts, it seems I frequently amuse myself, have fun at the movies. But I want you to know I will be erecting a statue of you in my yard.

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98. 5,24v,3/4 ton,2wd,lsd,5sp
blue box hp enhancement

 

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It could be true that water and snow could be sucked into the box. But, a 50 cent duckbill valve in the bottom of the box could stop the water problem. as for snow, i've never ran into the problem (yet). Just then why would they spend $40 in piping. all my other cars/trucks they are connected. Some, you have to pay extra for a "COLD AIR KIT". I'm not telling anyone to connect the piping or not. Same with the K&N filter. It all depends on you as an owner; on what your conditions are and the risk or work you are willing to take.

 

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Don't know about all of them but on mine, the snorkel is only long enough to reach the outer fender housing. Maybe 6 inches. I don't care for the loud hum that comes from the air box at certain rpms and the snorkel helps to reduce it. So I removed the airbox and snorkel, riveted the snorkel's lips to the box, and reinstalled it. I wish it did have some plumbing all the way to the front. I don't recall my '95 having such a loud hum. My 'old Isuzu diesel had a muffler on the intake with a built in P trap to drain the rain. I removed the intake muffler once and it sounded like a parking lot vacuum truck. So in conclusion, I beleave Chrysler designed the snorkel to quiet the hum and direct cooler air from inside the fender to the air box. It's not fastened to the box for $ in manufacturing and you can easily lift the whole air cleaner out to drill and tap the exhaust elbow for your pyro or access your PCM. Just my thoughts on it. #ad

CMechanic, I read somewhere that the turbo shouldn't have any foward play in it. I can move mine back and forth enough to feel it. Maybe . 005-. 010". Is this normal or could this be the "hum" source and should I have it checked? It works great. 24psi max. Turbo whistle is loud and clear.

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Steve McDaniel
98 ClubCab 12v 5spd 4. 10
97 Stratus
92 Harley Fatboy

 

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Steve, it is normal for up to . 003 I've seen up to . 007 and found them still good. but you need to isolate the side play--so you don't measure side play with the axel thrust.
the best way to see if your turbo has gone "bad" is to push the tubine/compressor shaft toward the housing in a side thrust motion(in two different dirrections) while turning the shaft. if the compressor of the turbine side rub against their housings---the turbo is bad.