When do I change oil in the NV5600?

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Getting ready for the 30K tuneup/fluid changes. I can't find anything in the book about changing fluid in the transmission. When do you guys change and what do you use?

Also, what do you run in the differentials and T-Case?

Thanks... . Steve
 
In the nv5600 I did my first change at 15k and again at 45k and will continue at 30k intervals. I favor Amsoil and use their products exclusively. Redline also makes a good Synchromesh formula too. Transfer case takes ATF+4 and I change it at the same time I do the transmission. I used 75w90 in the diffs. and changed them at 15k like the manual says and then every 40k with amsoil severe gear.
 
Theoretically, you can not wear out the lubricity of oil. You can only contaminate (blow-by gasses, un-burnt or leaking fuel, water for condensation (hot cold hot cold) intake dust getting by the air filter and onto the cylinder walls etc) it thus requiring the changing of the oil (like in our engines). Manual transmissions, transfer cases and differentials are sealed and don't get contaminated. Therefore, one would deduce that there would be an indefinite time on using the oil.



The aforementioned units can however get some contamination from the medal particles of gear wear. The G56 transmission drain plug has a magnet attached to the bottom drain plug that should hold any medal particles that come into contact with it (don't know if the NV 5600 does or does not have a magnet drain plug).



With all that said, many of us like the secure feeling of changing the oil. It makes us feel good - I am one of them just to get Amsoil in - but honestly I can't justify it.
 
Are you just now hitting 30K or is this a 30K interval fluid change. Not too many NV5600's with that low of mileage.

I've used Amoil 5w-30, Amsoil MTF, Penzoil Synchromesh, DC factory stuff, and plain old 50W in the two NV5600's I've had. I've never noticed any difference in either with any of the fluids. Not saying they're all bad or anything, I just never got better/worse shifting with any.

I try to change at 30K intervals.

Diffs I use Amsoil 75w-90. I have used the 75w-140 but I don't think it's neccessary. T-case gets Amsoil ATF.
 
Thanks guys. How do I know what T-Case I have? I was looking in the online service manual and it lists 3 or 4 models.

Cattletrkr, I am just now getting to 30K actual miles. Yes, it is an '03. Not a lot of miles for a truck that old, but 3/4 of that 30K has been with an 18K fiver on it's back, all over western USA. Everything from ocean beaches to Rocky mountains. Once we get to a contract location, I use it for a daily commuter. We do most of our recreational trips in the Tundra. Fewer tires to wear out, cheaper oil changes, cheaper fuel, etc..... The truck earns it's keep.

Thanks again guys.

One more question..... are the gaskets on the diff covers re-usable, or do I need to stock up on a couple of them also?

Thanks.
 
Thanks guys. How do I know what T-Case I have? I was looking in the online service manual and it lists 3 or 4 models.

There are only 2 options for 3/4 and 1-ton trucks: NV271 and NV273.

NV271 is manual shift.
NV273 is electric shift.

Also, the gaskets on the diff covers are reusable! They're more like o-rings than gaskets. A flat steel band encased in rubber with triple lips on each side. Very effective.

I recommend ignoring the 30 ft*lb specification for the differential cover bolts in the service manual. Some people have actually snapped the heads off the bolts at that torque. I'd go no higher than 20 ft*lb.

Ryan
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I have changed engine oil and fuel filter several times, but never tackled a transmission, t-case, or differential before. Wish me luck.

Steve
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I have changed engine oil and fuel filter several times, but never tackled a transmission, t-case, or differential before. Wish me luck.



Maybe this thread will help!



Differential is a piece of cake. NV5600 will require a 17mm hex bit (allen wrench) or a 14mm bolt (which has a 17mm hex head) and a couple nuts. Fluid drain is the bottom bolt on each PTO cover.



Ryan
 
I use pennz syncromesh at the intervals, I installed the PTO cover filter kit from geno's and overfilled just a tad. I haven't touched the transfer case yet, schedule hasn't called for it yet.
 
I use penzoil synchromesh since the getgo. A while back i started toping off through the shift tower. I think crawling along up pikes peak 14,140 ft with stop and go traffic is comforting to know there is alittle extra for the journey.
 
I pull the PTO cover off completely, lift the rear of the truck as high as my floor jack will lift to level the transmission and get more of the oil out of the back of the transmission case. I also sop up whatever is left with towel to get out any sediment that is left. There is also a flat magnet on the floor of the case which I remove and clean. The first oil change had a lot of "stuff" in it, enough that I was concerned. The oil changes after that were clean. I use Redline MTL as I can source it easily and at a decent price.
 
I pull the PTO cover off completely, lift the rear of the truck as high as my floor jack will lift to level the transmission and get more of the oil out of the back of the transmission case. I also sop up whatever is left with towel to get out any sediment that is left. There is also a flat magnet on the floor of the case which I remove and clean.



Excellent point.



If you're going to remove the PTO covers, be sure and have some RTV to reseal them (they don't have gaskets from the factory). Another option would be to buy some sheet gasket and cut your own, but I've found the Mopar brand RTV is excellent (so much so that I use it in other applications!).



Remember to clean off that flat "refrigerator" magnet at the bottom of the case. I don't bother with the jacking up the rear, but it certainly can't hurt.



Now I've got Fastcoolers on and I'm hoping never to remove them again. I don't have that flat magnet in the transmission, so I just periodically (every 5k miles or so) pull the dipsticks and clean their magnets. As the transmission gets older, I find less and less accumulation on the magnets.



Ryan
 
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