When to switch to synthetic oil

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It came with 5W40 synthetic, some stay with that, and some switch to dino oil. I made the switch to dino, as the 6 months arrives way before the mileage limit. SnoKing
 
I was told by my Service Mgr that my 2017 at that time was sitting on the lot with Valvoline 5W-40 (Synthetic) in the crankcase.
When I use my free oil changes they will use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.

I chose after my first initial towing adventure of 562 miles towing a 12K lb enclosed trailer @ the 3K mile mark I would drain the Factory Fill. I stayed with synthetic with a Fleetguard filter.

Your question is a personal preference! Nothing More!
Switch back and forth when ever ya like no ill effects will occur.
 
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I was told by my Service Mgr that my 2017 at that time was sitting on the lot with Valvoline 5W-40 (Synthetic) in the crankcase.
When I use my free oil changes they will use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.

I chose after my first initial towing adventure of 562 miles towing a 12K lb enclosed trailer @ the 3K mile mark I would drain the Factory Fill. I stayed with synthetic with a Fleetguard filter.

I am not under any illusions that my dealer used synthetic oil in my 4 free oil changes. I switched to synthetic at about 20,000 miles. My receipt from my free oil changes shows 3 gallons of mopar part #68024967PB which is 15w-40 conventional oil. The same oil was used on all 4 of my "free" oil changes. Now some dealers might use a higher quality synthetic to retain your business. All the dealers (service dept) in south Florida don't seem to care about repeat customers.
I would check the part number though to ensure the service manager doesn't have any illusions about what the mechanic is using. Dino is fine. But lying (misrepresenting service quality) to customers is not.

There is a tradeoff with synthetics to my understanding. Dino tends to be more compatible with the additives that are important to the oil quality. The variation in size of particles in dino means it doesn't flow as well. But it helps it mix with additives. Synthetics apparently with their consistent particle size don't mix as readily with additives. Again just like the synthetic doesn't mix as readily with additives, it also doesn't mix as readily with fuel. So it is more likely that instead of getting fuel-diluted oil, the fuel (that would normally dilute dino) is more likely to burn off (evaporate) in synthetic as it passes through the turbo, oil galley and piston cooling jets. If this fuel that dilutes the oil becomes mixed in and chemically part of the oil, it just tends to thin out the oil and doesn't burn off as readily if it is has become part of the oil. This is more likely to happen with dino

Higher quality synthetics are engineered with cleaning properties intrinsic to the oil itself and actually needs less additive. Higher quality synthetics also are engineered with high temp thickening properties.... So again, less thickener additive is needed.
Personally, I like to have more oil and less thickener (by volume percentage) and more oil by volume that additive in general. So I use synthetic (or synthetic blend). The advantage of synthetic blend is that it mixes better with additives than full syn. Kendall Super D XA 15w 40 is my preferred syn blend. Amsoil Dominator 20w-50 is my preferred full synthetic.

But more important than oil is filtration. Using a high quality oil filter like a Fleetguard Stratapore, Donaldson or Amsoil is better because the larger more damaging particles are removed from the oil.

SyN, I would ask the service manager why they are using a substandard Mopar filter while using a full syn. The oil is less important than the filter. If I were you, I would take a $15 Stratapore/Donaldson/Amsoil filter in there and see if they will install it. They might not since it is not OEM or manufacturer recommended like the Shell Rotella is.
 
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Original fill was Synthetic. I think I was about 5k when I went to AMZ/OIL 15-40 and since changed right at 15k with excellent results from Blackstone. I will be testing again October at 60k.

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Thanks Newsa: For your thoughts & opinions.
The truth is during my visit He (Steve) took me back into the service dept and showed me the pallet of T6 they used to service the 6.7L that actually show up for their free oil changes.

He also recommended: Since I live 3 1/2 hours away and would be doing my own oil changes to use either of these 2 oil filters.
1. Fleetguard ES LF9028
2. Fleetguard Stratapore

I have 3 of each in my garage cabinet.
Thanks again.

This is the combo I have in the crankcase now!
As long as the jobber will keep HIS prices down I will continue to use Schaeffers.
 
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IMO , there is a lot of myths about synthetic, aside from maybe the extreme cold, the benefits are what ?????

Lighter wallet? I am a perfect example of old fart. Just changed oil in one of the quad's, 2 quarts Mobil 1, the only oil Napa had that was rated for a wet clutch......so I promptly dumped it in and then after it was all in the drain pan, it dawned on me to install the plug....so now I gotta buy two more quarts so I can change the other one.

It could have been the Dodge, Lol
 
Just read the previous 10 or so threads you already asked this in. Done!

Good to hear from you, a little smokey up there in Heber City, plenty down here in the valley .

Switching back to dino, next oil change ,my experiment with synthetic is one ,and done :D
 
Switch anytime you want, it's a myth that you can't run synthetic in a new engine.

Its always refreshing to see there's still people out there who haven't been completely buffaloed by fancy oil company marketing.

Truth be told, most synthetic oils (especially anything you can buy on the parts store shelves) come from the same conventional petroleum oil stocks and are merely the best pull during the refining process. Kinda like extra virgin olive oil...

The biggest differences between conventional and synthetics, aside from additive packages, are that synthetic is more molecularly uniform which fights oxidation, which causes oil thickening...and allows for a more consistent viscosity when hot and cold.
 
View attachment 108241 Thanks Newsa: For your thoughts & opinions.
The truth is during my visit He (Steve) took me back into the service dept and showed me the pallet of T6 they used to service the 6.7L that actually show up for their free oil changes.

He also recommended: Since I live 3 1/2 hours away and would be doing my own oil changes to use either of these 2 oil filters.
1. Fleetguard ES LF9028
2. Fleetguard Stratapore

I have 3 of each in my garage cabinet.
Thanks again.

This is the combo I have in the crankcase now!
As long as the jobber will keep HIS prices down I will continue to use Schaeffers.
Was looking at Schaeffers, interesting product. Did you do any research or comparisons? Or do have history with their products?
 
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