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New Member- Disappointed

Formula for 1/4 mile X E.T. = HP

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I am a new user of the Forum but have been reading it for some time. This is a group of very knowlegeable folks. I love my truck and hope to glean some good advice in an effort to make it better.

My experience is limited but hope to be able to share some of my own experiences.

My signature describes my truck.

I tow a 29' 7000 lb. travel trailer throughout the northwest. I try to stay in OD as much as possible but the small hills and valleys pose the challenge. If I get on the throttle the EGT goes up fast. If it appears that it will get too high, I either unlock the TC or get out of OD.

What I need to know is what is the best course to take in improving the situation?

After reading the many posts on this issue, I am enclined to replace the injectors with 215s. I would really appreciate some suggestions. Keep in mind that I am not wanting a big bomb, just a small stick of dynamite.



Thanks to all
 
Does your truck still have the Cat? My truck just akk of the sudden started showng higher than what I was used to seeing EGTs and the cat was the cause. The injectors will make more power for you but also make EGT rise faster.
 
Thanks for the reply,



Yes, the Cat is still in place, I hadn't thought much about removing it. Would prefer to leave it alone if I can work around it.

I haven't messed with the timing as yet either. I have moved the AFC star wheel about 24 clicks toward the engine which has improved acceleration somewhat. Possibly I could move it more.



With the Banks Power Pak system in place, I have their cam plate installed as per their specifications. Neither the plate nor the AFC housing cover have been moved from stock location. What would be the results of moving either one of them?

From what I have been reading, my pump may not be capable of fueling the larger injectors but could it possibly operate more efficiently with the 215s?
 
Howard

I was led to belive that the 94 s did not have a cat. Also I installed the 215 injectors on my trk and did notice a power increase but also a decline in milage. The egt comes up a little faster but still under 900 degrees measured after or down stream from the turbo. See my signature.
 
David, Mine is an early 94 and it does indeed have the cat.

If the 215 injectors improved your power they might do even better in mine. I assume your 95's stock hp is already greater than the 94's 160.

I think that the Banks cam plate that I have in mine is somewhere close to the range of the TST plate that you are using.

If so, we are doing somewhat the same things except I am starting from a lower level.

Another factor in my situation is the 3. 54 gear ratios. If I had 4. 10s I don't think I would have any problems at all on any hill.

I just have trouble getting the acceleration I need for the short hills (in OD) without getting the egt up near 1300 degrees.

(My pyro is located ahead of the trubo)
 
I also have the PowerPack from Banks. If you slide the plate all the way forward and slide the AFC housing full forward, you will get a very strong power increase. Just make sure to watch you guages towing a long hill. I never have gone over 1000 degrees post turbo even with 215 injectors installed.
 
A couple things:



1) My '94 DOESN"T have a cat. Never did. Look for the '93 emmissions sticker on the sunvisor. :D Built in December!



2) I just added 215 injectors and my temps went UP. Longer cooldowns also. Truck is apart right now to install 14 cm turbo housing and replace all coolant hoses. (easier with turbo out) I should have it together tonight unless we get another big storm.



3) I thought 900 was the limit post turbo.
 
IF you have a cat, definitly get rid of it! That thing is horrible. I can get my EGT's up there towing with my current set up (see sig. ) I too am considering the 215 injectors. I don't really care about the more power part of it as I do backing the pressure off the P7100 a bit. I've heard around here that forcing the more fuel that I am through the measly stock 160 injectors is hard on the pump and I'd like to do what I can to preserve that beast. Sure hate to push egt's any more than I already am. I like to think of 900 as the limit post turbo. I don't like to leave it there long. I've hit 1000 a couple of times but don't let it stay there more than a few seconds and I'm out of it.
 
Thanks to all for the input. Danandme, I agree with what you are saying about relieving the workload on the pump. That is primarily why I want to change injectors.



By the way, my truck has been scattered around the garage for several days.

I pulled the gear case cover and checked the dowel pin. It was sticking out past the face of the gearcase about 1/16". I drove it in until it was fully seated in the block. It took some force to move it so am unsure if it was ever fully seated.

At any rate, it is secure now. I drilled and tapped a hole through the lip of the gear case and installed a 5/16"x 1" cap screw so that it runs through the gear case parallel with the face of the pin and directly in front of it. It could move again but not far. The head of the screw is behind the fan hub so it can't back out.

I wasn't comfortable with adding anything else inside the gear case that could possibly work loose. The interior bolts holding the case to the block were still OK. I re-torqued them.

Installing the new seal is a pain. I tried the hammer method first. Finally used the vibration damper to press it in. That works good.



While I was at it, I adjusted the valves. That is a fairly easy job.



Last but not least, I am having problems with loss of prime when the truck is idle for a few days. I was able to get the hose off of the fuel line. Don't see much wrong with it except for one spot that is almost worn through from rubbing on something.



Didn't intend to run on like this but maybe the info can be of some use to someone else.
 
Swamp Donkey,



I used a three pole, double throw switch and, along with a couple of relays, wired it in such a manner that the left position locks the TC, the right position unlocks the TC and the middle position returns control to the PCM.

I also included a timing circuit that completely disables the manual TC Lockup scheme when the overdrive lockout switch is pressed and it keeps it disabled for about 10 seconds.

I didn't like to be manually shifting the OD either in or out when the TC was forced into lockup. Triggering the timing circuit prevents me from doing that.

If you are interested, I could provide a schematic of the scheme along with greater detail.



Howard
 
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Howard, your fuel prime problem is probably your check overflow valve, the spring is weak in it. If no one has messed with it's it is not the rebuildable one, mine was not on my 94' anyways. Well replace it with the overflow valve that has a 11/16 head on the bottom and a 9/16 head on the top that is the one you will want, make sure they give you a new copper washer with the new check overflow valve. The overflow valve if your looking from the driver side at the pump is right above the #1 delivery valve and #1 injector line on the block side of the pump. It looks almost like a banjo fitting or banjo bolt... ... ... As for the heat problem bigger injectors=more heat, either switch to a 16cm housing for towing which would be applicable pulling your trailer in turn would help you out with the heat the 215 injectors are gonna make and help the P7100 out lowering the pressure buildup... ... or get your timing advanced some, timing will help out a little bit, getting the fuel delivered at the right time will do away with some of your heat problem. I would say for you a 16cm housing, a set of 215 injectors, and, maybe your timing advanced a little would help your heat problem alot and your power situtaion a ton... . Thanks, be good
 
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