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Where is my fuel pump?

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SDrake

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Just bought a 2003 and have been reading about the fuel pump failures. In checking under the hood using diagrams in the service manual there is no fuel pump on the back of the filter cannister as shown in the manuals.



Whats the story? I don't see any new plumbing or after market looking stuff. I think I read somewhere about a factory recall which placed the fuelpump in the tank. Is this so and if so, is the intank one OK or should I still be looking to upgrade?



I am going to do the 2micron addon filter between the stock and the injuction pump but am in a quandry on whether I need to do something with my pump.

Most of the stuff I read concerns trucks with the pump on the canister or else they are concerned with other year models. What about the 03? Thanks
 
They started putting them in the tank in 05 and all that came in with problems got updated to the in tank pumps. The in tank pumps seems to be holding up well with limited engine mods.
 
They started putting them in the tank in 05 and all that came in with problems got updated to the in tank pumps. The in tank pumps seems to be holding up well with limited engine mods.





Thanks. I assume the privious owner must have had the intank pump installed. I am wondering if I can be OK adding the 2micron filter after the stock filter. Will the pump still deliver and with a good life? Any opinions or experiences? I am going to be talking to vendors tomorrow but even though they are pretty good at what they do they do not always get all the facts straight about a particular model situation. My 94 pre feb build is a case in point. I got lots of wrong information about what parts to use on it including from the dealer. If it hadn't have been for TDR I would not have been able to keep that truck.
 
You might try listening in a quiet garage with your ear near the bottom of your OEM fuel tank while someone turns the ignition switch on and bumps, NOT engages, the starter. The fuel transfer pump is normally programmed to run for about 25 seconds when the starter is bumped. If the pump is in the tank you should be able to hear it thumping.
 
The intank is NOT an upgrade sure you might get 2 years more in life with the intank, but it give NO sign of in-pending failure. . and when its does generally its tow charge $250-350 Plus $200. 00 for in tank pump and another $250 for Pump plus 1-2 days down time,they call this an UPGRADE (NO Thanks) the can mounted Pump can be replace in less then 45 minutes on the side of the road if necessary at $160 for the pump road side service for $250 . Down time 3/hrs. The Factory can can be modified to run 2 Factory Pumps with the in cab switch to operate both or just 1. . You will NEVER be stranded with this UPGRADE, you will be able to replace the failed pump at YOUR leisure.

MY factory can pump lasted 6 yrs and 104K, Avg life is 3-5 ,I will pass on the factory Upgrade. Although MY bank account loves the the upgrade... Heeeeeeee
 
Although MY bank account loves the the upgrade... Heeeeeeee



Yeah Todd, we get the fact EVERYTHING adds to your bank account because of the shoddy factory stuff. I think the OP just wants to know where the pump is now. :rolleyes:





The in-tank pumps have PROVEN to be pretty reliable, much more so than any other solution the factory offered. That said, its an electric pump in a very inaccessible place. At some point, chaos theory predicts it will fail at the most inopportune time.



The question that needs to be answered is how much is it worth to have a backup system? Everybody comes to a different conclusion. :)
 
The intank is NOT an upgrade sure you might get 2 years more in life with the intank, but it give NO sign of in-pending failure. .



Really? Then we should see tons of posts on here about the crappy intank pump in '05+ trucks since those have been on the road for almost 7 years now. :rolleyes:



I'm all for pimping your products, but not spreading hogwash. C'mon now.
 
Like its been said, its a PITA to change, but a pretty stout unit. Very few failures and good longevity. It also is a pull thru design, so that in most failures the CP3 can safely draw fuel from the tank, so you aren't stranded on the side of the road like the canister mounted design.



There are no issues pushing thru a 2um filter, I push thru 3 filters with my OEM pump and the pressures are fine, and I have been doing so for about 3 years and 45K miles.
 
I haven't read of a single in tank failure on the TDR. Not saying it won't ever happen but it must be very rare. Aftermarket pumps are generally noisier and don't provide any performance difference on a stock truck. If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the in-tank.
 
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The intank is NOT an upgrade sure you might get 2 years more in life with the intank, but it give NO sign of in-pending failure. . and when its does generally its tow charge $250-350 Plus $200. 00 for in tank pump and another $250 for Pump plus 1-2 days down time,they call this an UPGRADE (NO Thanks) the can mounted Pump can be replace in less then 45 minutes on the side of the road if necessary at $160 for the pump road side service for $250 . Down time 3/hrs. The Factory can can be modified to run 2 Factory Pumps with the in cab switch to operate both or just 1. . You will NEVER be stranded with this UPGRADE, you will be able to replace the failed pump at YOUR leisure.
MY factory can pump lasted 6 yrs and 104K, Avg life is 3-5 ,I will pass on the factory Upgrade. Although MY bank account loves the the upgrade... Heeeeeeee

I wonder if you aren't getting a bit carried away with advertising your products and services here? Apparently TDR moderators have not said anything to you about it. Wouldn't it be enough to offer sincere and helpful advice and list your company name in your signature?

I put 230k miles on an '06 in less than two years when I was running hot and heavy transporting. Never experienced an in-tank fuel pump failure. I too have not heard or read of a failure here in TDR.
 
If my truck came with an in-tank pump as OEM, I would most likely leave it until it failed, as most have had good luck so far. However,(I have to agree with TC) if it did not come with an in-tank, I certainly would not install one in my tank, and if it did originally have an in tank and failed, it is very doubtful I would replace it with the same.



As Harvey stated, get someone to turn on your key, but not start, if you are laying down back by your tank you should be able to hear it cycle.



I know that when the original 03/04 canister mounted pumps started failing around here, Dishman Dodge was sending them to an outside shop for the warranty "in the tank retro-fit", a number of those actually ended up with frame mounted pumps. Follow your fuel lines back along the frame, they may have hid one up under the transmission cross member, that's where my Walbro is located.
 
Excellent, I do appreciate these replies. I am getting to know enough to be dangerous. Seriously I hope I can in some small wqay repay in part what I have gained from this site.
 
I haven't read of a single in tank failure on the TDR. Not saying it won't ever happen but it must be very rare. Aftermarket pumps are generally noisier and don't provide any performance difference on a stock truck. If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the in-tank.



Yep, some of the reasons why I had the in-tank pump upgrade installed on my truck. :)



Bill
 
I'll assume my 07 C&C has the intank pump in my 50Gal tank, but my question is, can the intank pump handle a FASS, 2 micron, air & water separator filter system? Will the intank restrict flow if pump is turned off and the FASS system is now the primary pump? I want to add the FASS system on my truck and I don't want to have to remove the B&W bed. (IWBAPITA)
 
Will the intank restrict flow if pump is turned off and the FASS system is now the primary pump?



Yes, severely restrict the flow the FASS needs to work properly. You really need to remove the cannister and plumb a larger pickup and lines for the FASS pump. They really work much better with a larger fuel supply line.



That said, you can probably push thru a 2 micron filter with just the in-tank pump. Quite a few people do that and it seems to work. How long is the question, and, will the in-tank pump fail faster with more work.



You could add a Carter pump out side the tank on the frame rail to help push the fuel thru extra filters. That should help keep th eflow up and the load on the single pump down.
 
my 05 got towed yesterday, dealer stated bad fuel pump and it caused the injector pump to go bad also. 90k miles on truck, no warning, just died going at 65 mph on hwy. 2 mile walk to call for tow truck. I am not happy :eek:(
 
Another vote for the in-tank. I wish I had gone that way and I may still yet. Do a google search for in tank failures - I couldn't find any.

Oh and be wary of anybody with their own agenda.
 
I wonder if you aren't getting a bit carried away with advertising your products and services here? Apparently TDR moderators have not said anything to you about it. Wouldn't it be enough to offer sincere and helpful advice and list your company name in your signature?



I put 230k miles on an '06 in less than two years when I was running hot and heavy transporting. Never experienced an in-tank fuel pump failure. I too have not heard or read of a failure here in TDR.



he is just telling what it might cost the person with a pump failure... he never said to call him or come to his shop if he owns one, do you need glasses, where does it say he is trying to " PIMP HIS SERVICES"??????
 
he is just telling what it might cost the person with a pump failure... he never said to call him or come to his shop if he owns one, do you need glasses, where does it say he is trying to " PIMP HIS SERVICES"??????

If you don't like my posts, don't read them.
 
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