Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Where should I install them....

[Alphacowboy]

Here is what I got,



-Autometer FP Gauge with electronic Sender, where should I mount this puppy and is there anything you recommend as far as installing it? Where should I plumb it in?



-Autometer Pyro 1600* Should I mount it Pre or Post Turbo?



-Autometer Boost 60PSI, Dont think there is anything special on that, is there?)



-Edge Comp, any notes on this? Things I should be aware of? I have 6k miles left on a GM extended warranty (bought it from a chevy dealer) on it, should I worry about it?



Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, with the Edge comp, and I decided to get the RV275 Injectors, other than an air intake, anything I need to worry about? Also, what kinda numbers am I looking at with this setup? I dyno'd without any mods, just the stacks and put down 198HP and 425lbs torque a few months ago. This was with 3:55 Gears and 35" tires as well.



Thanks!

-Matt

 

[NWhitney]

New Pieces

You need to add the year of your truck in the sig



98. 5-00 tap into top of Fuel filter with a grease gun hose (NEW hose :-laf )

01-02 get a geno's adapter to mount it to the VP-44



Mount Sender somewere on the engine... anywere you like... just make sure it is secure and not going to rub and break.



EGT:

MOUNT PRE... . Little good on melt down if it is post (see new post on 3rd gen about a guy converting his new HPCR injector into a torch and cutting a hole in his piston head He had it mounted post... now it is mounted pre to check things like that



Boost:

While you are ordering stuff from geno's get a tapped boost bolt so you don't have to drill your intake horn.



Edge Comp:

I don't have one *yet* so I can't tell you BUT, I doubt the GM guys would know were to look, and on that note you you really want them to work on your Cummins truck that they know nothing about?

 

[Alphacowboy]

You need to add the year of your truck in the sig



98. 5-00 tap into top of Fuel filter with a grease gun hose (NEW hose :-laf )

01-02 get a geno's adapter to mount it to the VP-44



Mount Sender somewere on the engine... anywere you like... just make sure it is secure and not going to rub and break.



EGT:

MOUNT PRE... . Little good on melt down if it is post (see new post on 3rd gen about a guy converting his new HPCR injector into a torch and cutting a hole in his piston head He had it mounted post... now it is mounted pre to check things like that



Boost:

While you are ordering stuff from geno's get a tapped boost bolt so you don't have to drill your intake horn.



Edge Comp:

I don't have one *yet* so I can't tell you BUT, I doubt the GM guys would know were to look, and on that note you you really want them to work on your Cummins truck that they know nothing about?

oops, accidently cut the year out of the sig (trying to get it to fit the 325 char. limit. )



Its a 2000



I already ordered th gauges and Comp ( killer deal on it all, lets just say the comp was lower than any price I have found, ANYWHERE) I might order that tapped boost bolt then. On the FP, where do you tap it in, the actualcap on the fuel filter? Also, I was told by another member that mounting the sending unit on the engine could cause it to fail due to the rattleing, is this true? I was told to mount it on the fender well or somewhere not on the engine.



And GM just writes the check for the repair, its still serviced by a Dodge technician.

 

[NWhitney]

On the side of the VP-44 you should have a little black cap sticking out of the banjo bolt that goes from the Fuel filter to the injection pump. Where to mount the thing? There are 2 camps of thought... First Camp... Engine vibration is bad for the sending unit and will cause it to fail, best to mount on fender with lots of hose that can not kink, rub, or break... . Secound Camp, hose from sender to VP will fail if there are not both vibrating with the engine and the engine vibration does not kill the sender it is the pulses from the injection pump that back-feed though the line to the sender. I am not an expert and fliped my magic coin and chose the secound camp. Who knows for sure? Not me! If the dodge tech is your buddy or can be bribed by beer or the like then tap... . if not wait.

 

[Cowboy Medic]

For the fuel pressure gauge ( I have the same one) I would run to the hardware store and get a 1/8 NPT needle valve, or order a snubber, but the needle valve will be easier to get and work just the same. and put it between the sender and the grease gun hose or whereever you mount it. This will stop the sender from being hit with pressure spikes that can ruin it fast. I went through two of them this way before I got mine on. The needle valve should just be cracked open a tiny bit. Plus that gives you a way to shut it off if you need to pull the sender for any reason. This will result in a slightly bit slower response to pressure changes but in reality you are watching for average pressures anyway so the slight slow in responsiveness shouldn't be an issue. You will still see what is happening at idle vs accelerating vs wot.

 

[EricBu12]

Mount them here



#ad




The holders are available from genos and you can get places to mix paint for the factory trim color on the paint code on your door sticker... .

 

[Alphacowboy]

Mount them here



#ad




The holders are available from genos and you can get places to mix paint for the factory trim color on the paint code on your door sticker... .

yup, got that too.





Thanks for the advice guys, definately going to get that needle valve to protect the sender.



Think a set of RV275 injectors will be bad with the stock turbo and an edge comp?

 

[Alphacowboy]

So, how did I do...



-Edge Comp Chip

-Autometer Ultras

60PSI Electronic Sending Unit and Gauge

1600* Pyro Meter

60PSI Boost Gauge

-3 Pod Pillar mount w/ tweeter



all for, $910 shipped to my door, all brand new. I do alright?

 

[Cowboy Medic]

Yep, I'd say so. As for the stock turbo I would think you would be ok, but that is not a gaurantee. I just know that I am running ddIII's which is a 100 hp injector and the 275's are a 40 hp injector (if I am remembering correctly) and I do fine with a bhaf and 4 inch exhaust and the stock turbo. Good luck with getting everything in and set. I know I love my combo. I hope yours does well for you.

 

[MKoth]

For the boost gauge, there is a 3/4" (i think) plug on the back drivers side part of the head. It take a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to remove, no socket. I went to the local Ace hardware and got a reducer to make the fitting that came with the boost gauge fit into the 3/4" hole.

 

[Alphacowboy]

I was looking into the BHAF setups, and I think I am going to build my own at the race shop, screw paying a few hundred for a metal box and a filter I could bend up in the shop and pic up a filter for under 60 bucks. Other than that, only thing I think I could do is get a 4" down pipe to mate up with the already 4" pipe that replaced my muffler and resinator.

 

[wtfd6]

For the boost gauge, there is a 3/4" (i think) plug on the back drivers side part of the head. It take a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to remove, no socket. I went to the local Ace hardware and got a reducer to make the fitting that came with the boost gauge fit into the 3/4" hole.

i did the same exact thing and it works great. mark

 

[Alphacowboy]

am i going to need a boost fooler? and what are they really?

 

[Cowboy Medic]

The edge comp will be your boost fooler. Should also come with the stuff to setup the wastegate if I remember right. I didn't install mine had a friend do it. But you don't need to buy a seperate cause the comp will take care of it.

 

[wtfd6]

am i going to need a boost fooler? and what are they really?

i would think the edge box will take care of that. it fools the computer into thinking the boost isnt going as high as it really is. after about 21 psi the engine defuels to cut down boost. mark

 

[Alphacowboy]

I see, thanks!! I am learning here guys! If you have anymore suggestions, keep them coming!

 

[new2dodge]

I went post turbo because I'm a worry wart. I can't say i've seen it happen, just heard horror stories about the probe breaking off pre-turbo. better safe and do the extramath than sorry. In my opinion.

 

[wicked6]

I was looking into the BHAF setups, and I think I am going to build my own at the race shop, screw paying a few hundred for a metal box and a filter I could bend up in the shop and pic up a filter for under 60 bucks. Other than that, only thing I think I could do is get a 4" down pipe to mate up with the already 4" pipe that replaced my muffler and resinator.

I think you're mixing up terms here. . A BHAF is *just* an off the shelf filter - it's approx $55. . Your stock elbow clamps onto the end - it's a work of art!!! The Outerwears cover is highly recommended - another $30 or so... . No other HW necessary... edit: the turbo whistle is a little more pronounced, too. . sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet... ...



What you are probably thinking about is a cold air kit, which Joseph Donnelly has done a good job of quantifying why they don't benefit you, at anything less than ~500HP. . (I think) Beyond that - replacing the stock airbox is key. .



If you can fab up your own cold air kit - go for it! Post pics when you're done. .

 

[wicked6]

I went post turbo because I'm a worry wart. I can't say i've seen it happen, just heard horror stories about the probe breaking off pre-turbo. better safe and do the extramath than sorry. In my opinion.

That's the fastest path to a B1B or twin set up, man!! Where's your priorities. ??? After that, then - by all means, put it post turbo.....







All this aside - you don't lose a tremendous amount of heat immediately after the turbine - I think the guy who melted his piston was just not conservative enough with his temperature limit... ... ... ... . Make sure you get the probe as close as possible to the turbine outlet / exhaust stream. . I picked up an EGT set up that will allow me to toggle between the 2 - will post any applicable data in the near future. .