Where to Buy Engine Rebuild Kit

[PaulJohnson]

I need a engine rebuild kit for a 2005 Dodge 2500 5. 9 cummins. Pistons, rings, bearings, basiclly a complete rebuilt. Where the best and cheapest place to buy from??

 

[HBarlow]

IMO the only place to buy rebuild parts or a complete factory rebuilt short or long block would be an authorized Cummins dealer.

You own the best light truck or MDT engine made. I wouldn't contaminate it or reduce its reliability and durability with aftermarket parts which were possibly/probably made in Communist China using inferior metallurgy and inferior machining techniques.

 

[PaulJohnson]

IMO the only place to buy rebuild parts or a complete factory rebuilt short or long block would be an authorized Cummins dealer.



You own the best light truck or MDT engine made. I wouldn't contaminate it or reduce its reliability and durability with aftermarket parts which were possibly/probably made in Communist China using inferior metallurgy and inferior machining techniques.

I agree, so you are saying a dealership?

 

[Missouri Mule]

Not A dealership but a Cummins dearlership! Did you mess up your engine?

 

[PaulJohnson]

Not A dealership but a Cummins dearlership! Did you mess up your engine?

I bought a 2005 that was flooded on the dealership lot and I am rebuilding the engine and looking for alot of odd and end parts. Not finding alot of rebuild kits out there for the 24 valve stuff.

 

[HBarlow]

I bought a 2005 that was flooded on the dealership lot and I am rebuilding the engine and looking for alot of odd and end parts. Not finding alot of rebuild kits out there for the 24 valve stuff.

Cummins owners generally refer to the 98. 5 through 2002 models as 24 valve engines. The new engines introduced in 2003 are called High Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) engines due to the new fueling system.

Record the numbers off the engine data plate or adhesive decal on the valve cover --- all the numbers like hp, serial number, engine series, and including CPL (combined parts list or something similar) which identifies to a Cummins parts man your particular engine and the parts used to assemble it. Any Cummins dealer can supply any part you want.

I'm not a mechanic but I wouldn't rebuild an engine that had been submerged in water without replacing all the electronics components and wiring harnesses. Insurance companies usually declare a late model automobile that has been submerged or partially submerged a total due to the electronics. A trip to a salvage yard for a complete takeout engine with all the electrics and harnesses might be a good bet.

 

[jgillott]

I agree with the others, I would go directly to Cummins. Have you torn the engine down yet? I'd be interested to see what it looks like inside from the salt water.

 

[jbucha4]

I work at kenworth and we get our parts straight from cummins. Talk about cheaper than dodge. My rear seal was only 28 dollars my dodge dealer wanted around 80

 

[PaulJohnson]

Yeah I open the engine up last week and WOW! Salt water and aluminium pistons don't go together. I have a place here local called Cummins South. I assume that is a Cummins dealer. As far as the wiring harness goes, They are all going to be replaced via salvage yard donor truck. When you put the battery cables on and turn the key on, half the dash lights up and one button on the master window switch lights up, I knew this stuff would need replacing going in to it. But The truck is in perfect condition, still has the window sticker on it, interior is perfect, and the odometer says 13 miles. I got it very cheap, so I figure I can sink some money in it and still only have a fraction of what it would cost to replace it. Hoping to get it up and going before late spring so I can use it to pull my camper.

 

[LMcCary]

Just a little free advice-for what it is Worth. Those cylinders are probably pitted and will have to be bored. Even if the cylinders look good, they could be micro pitted and will allow the engine to pump oil. Be there, done that. Next, the block will have to washed many times to remove the salt in the pores of the cast parts.

Would recommend removing any usable components and buying a long block or complete pull out engine from a reputable salvage dealer.

 

[PaulJohnson]

Just a little free advice-for what it is Worth. Those cylinders are probably pitted and will have to be bored. Even if the cylinders look good, they could be micro pitted and will allow the engine to pump oil. Be there, done that. Next, the block will have to washed many times to remove the salt in the pores of the cast parts.

Would recommend removing any usable components and buying a long block or complete pull out engine from a reputable salvage dealer.

The guy at the machine shop said about the same thing..... He said to bore it out 20 thousands and get new over sized pistons. He also said he would vat it in something that would nutralize the salt water. I will look at the rebuild price and compare them to a long block price. Trying to keep this in a decent budget.

 

[HBarlow]

I doubt you want to read more bad news but you should probably consider the wisdom of investing a lot of money in this truck hulk versus simply taking your loss now and moving on. You didn't mention saltwater emersion and your posts don't mention where you live. The project looks worse with each post.

The entire truck is probably not worth rebuilding. Anything electrical or electronic has been destroyed by saltwater and will never perform satisfactorily again.

The engine and engine electronics/electrics are probably junk and every electrical component in the dash, doors, underseats, lighting fixtures and harnesses throughout the entire truck are also junk.

If you replace every single wire and electrical/electronic component and get it running and functioning again the body will rust and fall apart in five years. You'll never be able to remove the saltwater contamination from the insides of body, door, fender, hood, tailgate panels, differentials, transmission, etc.

 

[TCDiesel]

I doubt you want to read more bad news but you should probably consider the wisdom of investing a lot of money in this truck hulk versus simply taking your loss now and moving on. You didn't mention saltwater emersion and your posts don't mention where you live. The project looks worse with each post.



The entire truck is probably not worth rebuilding. Anything electrical or electronic has been destroyed by saltwater and will never perform satisfactorily again.



The engine and engine electronics/electrics are probably junk and every electrical component in the dash, doors, underseats, lighting fixtures and harnesses throughout the entire truck are also junk.



If you replace every single wire and electrical/electronic component and get it running and functioning again the body will rust and fall apart in five years. You'll never be able to remove the saltwater contamination from the insides of body, door, fender, hood, tailgate panels, differentials, transmission, etc.

Not to mention the entire fuel system is Junk. . CP3, Rail, Injectors, lines, etc.

 

[PaulJohnson]

WOW... ..... Thanks for the words of encouragement Well, I have checked this thing out top to bottom and it really isn't that bad. I live in Atlanta and the truck was purchased 10 miles north of New Orleans. The first guy that bought it hauled it to Atlanta in November of 2005. It has sat in a field by his house since 2005. I bought it last month, brought it home and drain every bit of fluid out of it, all looked good but the engine oil. There is no rust on the body at all, frame has no rust. The brake rotors and spendles are pretty rusty. The electrical under the hood looks great, Injectors look new, fuel system has no water or rust. The electrical under the seats and dash need replacing. I pulled the turbo apart Saturday and cleaned it, and I think it is fine also. The actuator and wastegate solenoid may need replacing but no sure yet. I did a Kelly blue book on the truck and it says $20,225 ( not salvage of course). If I can stay on my budget I can have this truck up and going for $6500. 00-$7500. 00. If this can be obtained I will be happy with the purchase. I will keep you guy updated on the progress or non-progress

 

[TCDiesel]

PaulJohnson,Just trying to help, I see what happens to the fuel system regularly Here in MN, We have Boat Launches that require the rear of the truck to be submerged, when someone creates a wake it over takes the fuel tank, the so called breather on top are overtaken from the wave and water leaks in, when the truck sits for some time rust will form inside the Rail,CP3. . This rust will make quick work of the injectors and CP3.

 

[jgillott]

WOW... ..... Thanks for the words of encouragement Well, I have checked this thing out top to bottom and it really isn't that bad. I live in Atlanta and the truck was purchased 10 miles north of New Orleans. The first guy that bought it hauled it to Atlanta in November of 2005. It has sat in a field by his house since 2005. I bought it last month, brought it home and drain every bit of fluid out of it, all looked good but the engine oil. There is no rust on the body at all, frame has no rust. The brake rotors and spendles are pretty rusty. The electrical under the hood looks great, Injectors look new, fuel system has no water or rust. The electrical under the seats and dash need replacing. I pulled the turbo apart Saturday and cleaned it, and I think it is fine also. The actuator and wastegate solenoid may need replacing but no sure yet. I did a Kelly blue book on the truck and it says $20,225 ( not salvage of course). If I can stay on my budget I can have this truck up and going for $6500. 00-$7500. 00. If this can be obtained I will be happy with the purchase. I will keep you guy updated on the progress or non-progress

I'm sure that everyone here is just trying to be helpful and point out the areas of potential problems you may have. Listen, don't get down about your project. You know exactly what you are working on and the potential issues you are going to run in to. To me, part of the fun is the project itself. Taking something like that and getting it up and going is a great way to spend some free time.



The first vehicle I purchased for myself years ago was a 1985 Chevy Blazer that was stolen, stripped, and dumped in a lake. I picked it up for next to nothing and spent the better part of 2 years getting it back in running condition. As a young kid, it was a great experience. When I was finished, I learned more about vehicles than I ever did before, knew how to fix anything that went wrong on that thing, and was darn proud of he job I did on it. It was never perfect. I never had the electrical system just right and it rusted out bad eventually. I drove that thing until 1999 and racked up over 330K on it before I finally sent it down the road. Reading your thread is giving me the itch to do another one.

 

[PaulJohnson]

Thanks, I know everyone here is here to help and I do appreciate everyone's input..... But it is what it is and I'm not giving up on it that easy. I see a truck that can be a great one with alot of work and you are right..... half the fun is the challenge. Just bare with me guys, I will have some question and I hope I can turn here for some insightful answers.

 

[CMChristensen]

I think its a cool project..... I say you should post some pics befor an after an how much you ended up spending..... Goodluck an keep us posted

 

[PaulJohnson]

I think its a cool project..... I say you should post some pics befor an after an how much you ended up spending..... Goodluck an keep us posted

I will post pics as soon as I can. I will also start a price list of what it cost me from start to finish.

 

[AABEN]

If the truck was never started you will not have to do a rebuild. gest flush it out with diesel fuel and some cheep 20 weight oil pull the injectors put 10 weight oil on top of the pistons then crank over do this 2 times. You did not say how longe it was in the warter or if it was salt water MAKE sure it is all dried out !!! CHECK all plugins to see that it is clear of water. -----GOOD LUCK