Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Where to get a good price on Short Block?.... ditching the 53 block...

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sticking Throttle

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sorry to here that Eric :( . Which pins are leaking? The one's you stripped out? Did you grind off the JB Weld and pressure test it to see exactly where it's leaking?



Evan, are you apposed to the Lock-n-Stitch because you know of others who have tried it and failed or because you just don't believe in the technology/theory?
 
Last edited:
I can understand the concept behind it, but in this application it can't fix the problem, which is a thin block. I have seen a few that have failed after the lock-n-stitch repair, and the result is always the same... Leaks. Better off to just replace the block and do it right. LNS can be a way to slow the leak until it can be fixed properly, but I do not see it as anything more than a temporary repair.
 
my thoughts exactly evan..... might be good on other applications but not this... .



Found out the Belzona is better than JB but won't help to mechanically reinforce the block... even if I did the whole length of the block.....



cliff. yes mostly the ones where it was stripped but had others as well... seems like bars-stop leak stuff is holding for now... will baby it til the work is done...
 
Last edited:
This thread has been sad but interesting. Eric, I'm sorry you have to buy another engine for a relatively new and low mileage truck but I've been curious and frankly, skeptical about the Lock and Stitch repairs others have posted about. I'm not an engineer or mechanic but I couldn't see how that was going to be a permanent repair on a bad casting.



Fortunately my '01 does not have a 53 block but I've always thought "it could have been me also" and have read with interest the posts by 53 block owners worrying if and when theirs would fail and the posts by others who were using Lock and Stitch to repair.



This thread has answered all my questions. I'm comfortable with Evan's opinion and would do the same thing Eric is doing --- buy another engine if your truck is in good shape and you plan to keep it. No more worries.



Harvey
 
I disagree. This is a proven method. There are many people who have used the LnS method successfully. There are 3 people on this thread alone https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128401&page=2&pp=15. Not to mention others on this forum. LnS has done countless 53 block repairs in there machine shop and all have been 100 % successful. I personally talked to the tech at LnS and he said that they have had 98% success rate for those who have done there own 53 block repair. Eric, I think you're a little quick to give up on the LnS. The pins that are leaking can be stabilized. I would give it another try if I were you. What have you got to lose? Even if you’re on a long trip and it fails it’s not going to leave you stranded.
 
Maybe the pin method would work but like Cliffman, the whole line of the block is weak,... He had a break, towed heavy then had another crack a few inches from the first.....



Now, If the block was thicker, then had a crack from freezing, the pins will work because the block is strong, there is ample material for the threads of the pins to work... ... I believe in the Lock n stitch in most aplications but the 53 block is very weak... .



I just paid for a shortblock from a TDR member which is an 01 and has the small numbers on the side so, it is the mexican block which is real good. The block has a lottle more miles than mine but it has been bored . 020 over, got good pistons, a crank and cam for $1300 shipped. I will have the shop decide which cam, crank and pistons are best then install them with either new rings or use my rings from my truck and new bearings and a gasket set. Then the shop says $1600 to swap the parts and install.



So A good block, with extra parts I might be able to sell,... . for less than $3000 installed..... not bad I think



Heres a neat fact... The block, crank, cam, pistons and Con Rods weighs 675# on a pallet. !! Paid $350 of $500 to have the Block shipped, But I have to pick it up at the dock. ... Saves $150

.

.

.

.
 
Last edited:
Cummins Response?

EricBu12 said:
Maybe the pin method would work but like Cliffman, the whole line of the block is weak,... He had a break, towed heavy then had another crack a few inches from the first.....



Now, If the block was thicker, then had a crack from freezing, the pins will work because the block is strong, there is ample material for the threads of the pins to work... ... I believe in the Lock n stitch in most aplications but the 53 block is very weak... .



I just paid for a shortblock from a TDR member which is an 01 and has the small numbers on the side so, it is the mexican block which is real good. The block has a lottle more miles than mine but it has been bored . 020 over, got good pistons, a crank and cam for $1300 shipped. I will have the shop decide which cam, crank and pistons are best then install them with either new rings or use my rings from my truck and new bearings and a gasket set. Then the shop says $1600 to swap the parts and install.



So A good block, with extra parts I might be able to sell,... . for less than $3000 installed..... not bad I think



Heres a neat fact... The block, crank, cam, pistons and Con Rods weighs 675# on a pallet. !! Paid $350 of $500 to have the Block shipped, But I have to pick it up at the dock. ... Saves $150

.

.

.

.

Is Cummins owning up to any responsibility for this fiasco these days or just shining it on? You've obviously taken superior care of your vehicle and not abused it. I'd take it case by case if I were them and cover it to maybe to 100,000 miles regardless of age. It's just the decent thing to do! Maybe they're reading these polls,"NOT!" Would a mass E-Mailing would help? Sucks!
 
I've been think of getting a non-53 short block to have around just in case... ... are they easy to find?



In the mean time ... . I think I'm going to get a t-shirt made up with a big friggin 53 on it. Maybe if the my block has someone rooting for it..... only 87,000 miles so far.
 
just a stab here..... couldn't you strengthen the block by just adding material to the weak area? maybe even just a weld bead up and down the weak area.



Jeff
 
Welding Cast Iron makes the metal brittle and can create more cracks. ...



I was tempting the Idea of Using Belzona Metal Rebuilding product ... . A rep of the company said it is very good at repairs..... BUT, the strength of it is 18,000 ? (forgot the term)... and Cast iron is between 50,000 and 70,000) ... So the Belzona is strong but does not add mechanically the strength of the block... . If it is stressed hard, it is possible to crack the line even with a good covering over the curved line... .



So, I sought out a good block and I think I got one.



Search E-bay or other sites to find a block... ... I was told a new factoy spec block is like $2000. ... . so the used block I bought with the cam and crank and pistons, at $1000... . Not bad
 
most are located either under the VP44 or on the right side under the oil cooler...



If you have one of the 50 something #'s, they are big and you can't miss them.



If you have one of the mexican blocks, mine is located under the VP44 and some wires was in the way but I was able to see the small numbers... The actual number is not important, just that it is not a 2 digit number.
 
Try you local Case Equipment dealer. Or Cummins offroad dealer. I get all my parts from Case on my 98. 5. This engine is use in the 9040 case trackhoes, just 24 volt. Parts cheaper than Dodge house.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top