2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Where to get a replacement headliner?

[Taz]

I am looking for a replacement headliner. Local upholstery shop wants $125 for a new one. This is an easy install if I can just get the headliner myself.





This place has it: New Dodge Parts and Accessories. But they have no phone number to call them on their website, which I find strange.



Thanks!

Brady

 

[CochranD]

dodge parts

click the dodge parts over on the left . The number is in there.

 

[BigPapa]

Brady,



I recovered mine. Materials cost me @$25. 00. Looks just like factory and it ought to be around a lot longer. I would imagine shipping will eat your lunch on mail ordering one.



Scott

 

[Taz]

Where did you get materials to recover it and how long did it take?

Thanks,
B

 

[BigPapa]

Bought the material at an upholstery supply place in Nashville. The glue was from a hardware store. It took me about 5 hours but I understand now that I went WAY overboard getting the old material and glue off. I got it ALL off and I've since been told that you just need to get the worst of it off. I also used liquid contact cement and have been told that the 3M spray adhesive is quicker and easier to use.



Scott

 

[JPittinger]

I've never taken the headliner out and mine needs replaced. Could one of you that have done it post some instructions and tips?
Thanks, JJ

 

[JGK]

They are really pretty easy to remove. It's been a couple of years since I pulled mine out, but there's no real trick to it. Unscrew the visor clips and mounts. Unscrew the 2 ceiling console screws near at the front close to the windshield. The rear of the console is retained by 2 metal clips in slots in a roof support. As I remember, you can slide it back a half inch or so and the metal clips will slide out the back of the slots. Then it drops down.



Remove the door gaskets by pulling them straight out and away from the metal door opening. Pull the A pillar covers by pulling them straight out away from the metal pillar. Again, these are retained by metal spring clips on the back of the covers. Be gentle but firm. Sometimes a flat screwdiver used as a pry bar helps. Once you remove the rubber gaskets you can sort of see between the plastic covers and the metal pillar.



Remove the ceiling light cover - I think it is held in place by a couple of screws. Been too long and I can't remember. Theres also a few button head plastic retainers that have to be pulled. You might consider picking up a couple of spares from the dealer before you do this because they invariably break.



Remove any other hanger clips, handles, lights, etc. then the whole thing just drops away. It can be awkward working it out the open doors.



The worst part of the whole thing is that since some of the plastic parts (console, A pillar covers) are held on by metal clips melted into or gripping the plastic on the back side, the plastic gets brittle and the metal clips break the plastic. Now there's no easy way to retain the metal clips on the plastic part. I've had some success on repairing those and making them work but you have to get creative.



-Jay

 

[BigPapa]

I don't recall having to remove any gaskets.



One thing also on the A-pillar covers, they come off by kind of rolling/sliding them toward the outside of the cab. In other words, toward the door. If you try to pull them straight away from the A-pillar you will break off the plastic clips. The metal clips Jay is refering to are actually welded to the metal pillars themselves. The clips that will break off are plastic and are held on to the cover by melting the plastic cover. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get them off. I successfully glued mine back on using a glue called "Goop". It's in a little blue tube and I got it at a hardware store. They're on there better now than they were from the factory. I've had my covers on and off several times since without them breaking back off.



You will have better luck with the overhead console by gently pulling it straight down out of the clips than sliding it. I broke mine trying to slide it.



The pillar covers in the back do pull straight away from the body and kind of clip over the door seal.



The dome light is removed by prying the clear cover off with a screw driver in the little slots and then there are 2 screws holding the base to the roof.



I would suggest removing the center console first, then the passenger handle, coat hanger, dome light, then the A-pillar covers then pulling the top of the rear covers out. Don't try to remove them entirely and let the back of the headliner rest on top of them. Then finally the visors. There are also some velcro type things over the driver side door and a couple on the roof, so don't freak out when you feel them holding it up.



Lastly, the headliner board itself will fold if you try to bend it too far and then it's pretty much shot. Pull, pry, and bend on it carefully.



The material I used was the same as the factory stuff and went on real well, but I have heard of others using camo material or other things so don't be afraid to be creative.



Scott

 

[JGK]

It's funny, Scott, about the roof console. I broke mine by pulling it straight down! I guess you're never sure just what will cause them to break. Afterward, I discovered it could be slid backward, though I confess I never got a chance to try that.



I glued the metal clips back to the A pillar cover using epoxy putty for ABS/PVC. So far, that's holding.



As to the gaskets I referred to, I meant the rubber door seals - couldn't think of the proper name.



And you make a good point about folding it. DON'T!



-Jay

 

[BigPapa]

Jay,



Hope you didn't take my comments as me trying to argue with you. They were not meant in that way, just my experiences.



I still don't understand what seals you had to remove and I guess the overhead console just goes to show that sometimes you just can't get something off without breaking it

I glued the metal clips back to the A pillar... .

So you actually broke the metal clips off the A-pillar? Man, that stinks.

Scott

 

[JGK]

Scott,



Seals: the big rubber seals around the door openings. On mine, anyway, the inner edge covers edge of the A pillar covers and the edge of the headliner by just a quarter or 3/8 inch.



In no way did I take your comments as an arguement.



Yeah the melted plastic that holds the metal clip to the back side of the A pillar cover snapped off. The epoxy putty I used to glue them back on seems to grip to both the plastic and the metal clip pretty well.



For the overhead console, since the little metal clips snapped off the flat plastic posts they gripped, I couldn't use them anymore. So I epoxy-putty'd a couple of threaded inserts to the roof metal just above the 2 "festoon" light bulbs in the console, then used long threaded machine screw with a washer on each to screw the console to the roof. You have to remove the lenses and bulbs to access the screws, but it works great. There were already some holes in the plastic above the bulbs for the screws to go through.



-Jay

 

[BigPapa]

Jay,



Good fix on the console. I looked at my door seals and I don't think I had to remove mine. Maybe wrong, I've slept since then.



One thing I thought of, make sure that you wrap the material around all the edges and glue it to the board on the back side. The factory material was trimmed off at the edge of the board and that's where mine started to come off.



Scott

 

[Misenheimer]

Hi and thanks for the information for removal of the headliner. I have two, a 1998. 5 and 1999, both have problems with the headliner. The 98. 5 does not have the rear doors, I assume that it will be harder to get that one out? The 99 has the small rear doors and it should come ou withoyt much problem??

Where would be a place to ger the replacement material? Would it have the backing on it?

Thanks again

Robert

 

[BigPapa]

Robert,



I have no experience with any kind of extended cab or quad cab.



As far as the material goes, look in the yellow pages under upholstry supplies. As I stated, I used the standard material with the foam back on it but I have heard of others using camo material and some other things. The only problem I see with a material with no backing is you wouldn't want the glue to soak through the material. It may not be a problem with the 3M spray but the pour on glue I used will soak through if it's too thick in a spot.



Scott

 

[AndyMan]

Great thread.



The 3M product that I've used is their "Super 77 Spray Adhesive". It works great on thin materials like headliners, because it's very lightweight and very sticky. You can pick it up at most places. It's in a black can with red and yellow accents and has "Super 77" in big white letters.