Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Where to get barbed banjo for return fuel hose?

[Crowhurst]

I've just spent two hours online and on the phone trying to obtain a barbed banjo to re-route the fuel return line from under the overflow valve on the P7100. Cummins requires a part number. Anywhere else would require the bolt size passing through the banjo. The truck is my daily driver, so I don't want to dismantle the line and take the parts to a shop. Can anyone help with a supplier and a part number or description? Also, do I need to replace sealing washers, which I recall may be rubber coated, and if so, where can I get them, and do I need a part number for them? Issue 44 of the TDR at page 39 says "hose shops and most Bosch shops" have the banjo, but I'm not having any luck. I'm in MN at present, but I can order online. Many thanks.

Nick.

 

[Joe G.]

Which banjo are you talking about? If it's the one on the engine side of the P7100 near the front it's the overflow valve, not a banjo.

 

[Crowhurst]

Joe, I'm aiming to re-route the fuel return line to make replacing it easier. Issue 44, page 39 of the TDR magazine (article by Joe Donelly) describes replacing the existing take-off steel pipe with a barbed banjo fitting, and then using marine grade hose (from Larry B's) round the front of the fuel injection pump direct to the steel line to the tank.

Nick.

 

[Missouri Mule]

All you would have to do would be to cut the metal line to the length you want it and attach a hose to it. Should be able to bend the medal line a little.

 

[Crowhurst]

The advice I have read is that in view of the fuel pressure at that point, a barbed connection would be more secure. The fuel pressure, although on the return line, was still sufficient to send a jet of fuel across the engine bay when the rubber hose failed last month. I am aware that others, including BigPapa on this forum, have done the modification as you suggest, but thank you for the suggestion. The original short rubber hose was, of course, only held on by hose clamps, and I may end up by doing as you suggest.

Nick.

 

[surfbeetle]

If you are going though all of this effort, then go with stainless braided lines with earls fittings. The fuel line from Larry B's will eventually do the same thing as the stock line. It just fails less often than the regular fuel hose. In 15 years, I believe I have changed these stupid lines 3 or 4 times.

 

[CCiatteo]

If you are going though all of this effort, then go with stainless braided lines with earls fittings. The fuel line from Larry B's will eventually do the same thing as the stock line. It just fails less often than the regular fuel hose. In 15 years, I believe I have changed these stupid lines 3 or 4 times.

Would steel braided line stand up to diesel fuel, from a corrosive standpoint?

 

[surfbeetle]

Braided Stainless lines are basically a rubber hose inside of a woven stainless steel hose. On my VW, I used rubber lines to feed the oil cooler from the engine and they were routed near the exhaust. After a matter of months, they cracked and leaked. I replaced the lines near the exhaust with stainless braided lines and it's been working for years.



I don't think it's the diesel that is eating the lines on our trucks, I think its more of the heat causing the failure of the lines. In fact, the hard line that goes from the fuel filter to the injection pump was replaced with a Cummins part that has a section of flexible stainless line in the center for easier installation.

 

[CCiatteo]

How does the marine hose differ from regular automotive parts store hose? More resistant to heat?

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

Was there a resolution to this?



thanks!

kevin

 

[jandtjil]

Crowhurst
I have always had good success dealing with Eric at Vulcan Performance
Cheers

 

[Crowhurst]

I ordered a barbed banjo, 14mm, with a 5/16th barb from US Diesel Parts: High Performance Diesel Parts for Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke.

Nick

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

Thanks, Nick!

 

[Crowhurst]

Once I cut the steel fuel return line down by the frame, should I flare the end of the 5/16th inch steel tube to make the hose fitting more secure? IIRC, the stock steel fuel tubes are flared at the ends when connecting to the rubber fuel lines. If so, is there a suitable flaring tool for a 5/16th steel tube that anyone could recommend?



Kevin, glad to be of assistance. This is a good modification. When my fuel return hose split I was towing the travel trailer miles from anywhere.



Nick.

 

[khalsey]

Crowhurst, did you have a part # for the barbed banjo fitting?

 

[Crowhurst]

I phoned them just now to look up my order from last March. They are at 406 728 7620. The part # is D42400, and the cost is $4. 24. Bear in mind that the company says that is the correct part for the job, but I am waiting on my hose from LarryB before I get to it.

Nick.

 

[khalsey]

Thanks Crowhurst, Guess I'll order one and change my return line and supply line. I changed the return line about 6 or 7 years ago. Supply line in still original.