Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Where to put engine oil temp sender?

[Matt42]

I want to install an engine oil temperature gauge in my 1996 12V. This is not something that I need. It is something that I want. Is there an unused port in the engine block or cylinder head (or some other place) that would be good for the sender?

I'm deleting the cup holder from the dash board, which frees up some space for gauges. I'll probably relocate the fog light switch to another place and put a gauge there. I already have a dual swing boost-EGT gauge on the left A Pillar. So I'm wanting oil temperature gauges on the dash.

The Mah-Hytec differential covers have ports, and fitting a sender to the NV-4500 isn't going to be difficult. That leaves the engine and the transfer case. (The transfer case also flummoxes me, so I'm looking for suggestions for that.)

 

[Ozymandias]

Top of the filter head has two 1/8"NPT ports which are usually used for this.
Senders nose then sits within the full oil stream so you have the most precise temp numbers.

TC I wouldn't monitor at all, I don't see a benefit from that.

 

[Matt42]

Top of the filter head has two 1/8"NPT ports which are usually used for this.
Senders nose then sits within the full oil stream so you have the most precise temp numbers.

TC I wouldn't monitor at all, I don't see a benefit from that.

Thanks. I had hoped it would be something like that. And you're correct. The coolant temperature gauge would probably give equivalent data. But I have this open space . . . And I think I got the T/C figured out.

 

[Ozymandias]

Engine oil is usually very close to coolant temp as the built-in heat exchanger is very efficient.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Send an oil sample to Blackstone, THAT will tell you what is really going on inside your engine, diff and trans case.

 

[slowmover]

Engine oil is usually very close to coolant temp as the built-in heat exchanger is very efficient.

Engine warm-up isn’t complete until oil reaches op-temp. That’s a considerable distance (time/miles) from engine coolant. I’ve seen 45-miles on CTD and in big trucks (why anything less is the abuse of “short trips” warned against in operator manual; is considered severe service).

Pull a hard grade and keep an eye on oil temp. Also can be quite slow to come back down.

On older CTD (non-VVT) the engine fan is all one has to cut off the spikes. Engine oil temp can keep coolant temp high. This was why the Don’t Exceed 80% Engine Load rule of thumb came to be.

There are good reasons to watch oil temp.

In extended cold weather idling one must keep engine oil above 150F. (High idle and/or winter front). Ring Seal and hydrodynamic wedge at bearings.

Relation of temp to pressure can occasionally be of interest.

Another way of understanding high engine hours versus miles (26-MPH or worse; bad Average MPH) is time spent past full warm-up and concomitant boil off of condensation (acid formation) is what matters for longevity.

Ideally we don’t get into asking for engine power until 150F is achieved (roughly coolant op-temp).

Coolant temp is more important only in a relational sense. The head will overheat before the cam & crank bearings. It changes faster (early warning).

Want to win a MPG Challenge? Run 50+ miles before the meet up at the Interstate fuel stop 15-miles from town..

Op Temp = Lowest Friction + Best Seal.

.

 

[NIsaacs]

Before computers, big truck OEM's installed the sender in the oil pan. I have one in my Ford conversion but it don't work. I think it might be a bad ground with the Teflon tape.

You might use the drain plug for your t-case. I drilled and threaded my inspection cover on my '01 NV-5600.